Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

So sealant wise, is there a true difference between them? I'm looking for longevity and gloss and the vehicle is platinum white from Ford. Thus, there is pretty much no depth/reflection etc. I will be adding the 601 too... This combo has been around for years, I've just never tried it. I have yet to get past 3 months of decent beeding on a truck that sits outside. Excited to see how this combo works but confused on which polish to use from DG

I would use 111 with 601 - i use it on all my vehicles and see a year or longer from it. 105 is like 111 but has polish in it.

I have 105 after 601; then Aquawax every 4 months . Holds up well on my CaymanS

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrOneEyedBoh

So sealant wise, is there a true difference between them? I'm looking for longevity and gloss and the vehicle is platinum white from Ford. Thus, there is pretty much no depth/reflection etc. I will be adding the 601 too... This combo has been around for years, I've just never tried it. I have yet to get past 3 months of decent beeding on a truck that sits outside. Excited to see how this combo works but confused on which polish to use from DG

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My suggestion is to follow Richy’s guidelines
that are listed below. IMO: it takes the guess-
work out of the equation.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by richy

I speak with a certain voice of authority
when it comes to DG products. I am the
one that brought the concept of mixing
DG 501 or 105 or 111 with DG 601 at a
4:1 ratio to the AG community. I also beta
test products for them and have for years.

So having qualified my position, let me give
you my opinion on what will suit you the best:

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So, my suggestion to you is to
start with DG 501/601 in a 4:1 ratio.
Mix a small amount up in a squeeze bottle
(like a ketchup bottle) that you can buy at
a dollar store.

You can also try to mix it on the pad, but I
don't recommend doing it that way.

Work the mix in on a medium aggressive pad
(I adore the white Buff & Shine pad). A white
pad will be great as you will literally see the
crap coming off of the paint as it will discolour
your pad. You will need 2 or 3 pads to complete
the job. Clean them afterward in paint thinner....
this mix will NOT rinse out with water and/or APC.

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Follow that step immediately (one of the advantages
to using the mix) with DG 105 or 111 mixed again
4:1 with 601.

Which one: 105 or 111?
Ignore the whole-it's labeled as a polish nonsense-
and choose according to what look you want.

The 111 has a more pure sealant (high gloss, plastic
kind of look) vs the 105 which is a bit warmer, more
like a wax kinda look. White, yellow, and red look
amazing with the 111 although I only use 105.


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You can then do another layer of that combo or
top it with a wax immediately afterward too.

Aquawax will definitely make it pop if you use
it periodically.

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That is my suggested route for you.

If you do not have a machine, you can still do
the 501/601 stage by hand. It will just take
longer and won't be as effective as it would
have using a machine.

I still recommend doing it, even if only by hand.

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Hope this helps.


Bob

I agree with everything Bob wrote, the duragloss mix of 501/601 is a hard combo to beat. The 501 is great for its cleaners, it’s great on white and light colored vehicles such as yours. The 601 will help the product bond and cure instantly and mixed 4:1 makes it a simple one step process. I used it on a silver car some 5 or 6 years ago, in the sun and had no issues working it and allowing to haze a bit before wiping off.

Maintained with their car wash, rinseless wash and aquawax makes it a very easy regiment with minimal products required in this day and age of endless toppers and maintenance products... man this thread has me thinking I need to start buying up some DG products haha

Thanks!!

Duragloss 111 = Straight up sealant
Duragloss 105 = Light paint cleaner (chemical) + sealant
Duragloss 501 = More paint cleaning ability (chemical) + sealant

Duragloss "polishes" are a bit of a misnomer as most of them do not contain abrasives and are really more of a sealant. You would need to step up to #652 or #671 (aka SMR) to get one of their products which contains abrasives.

On a white vehicle with paint in good condition, I would go with the #105 + #601 combo as white paint can usually do with at least a bit of paint "cleaning". Conversely, if the paint is new and uncomtaminated, go with #111 + #601 combo, or if the paint needs more cleaning go with the #501 + #601 combo (though at this point you may be more inclined to clay it depending on the extent of contamination ?)

The truck is new with 1800 miles on it. Haven't clayed it but it feels decent. Definitely needs it and plan on doing it soon with a clay puck from Griot's. Hopefully I don't need to polish it afterwards. Being white, I can prolly get away from it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrOneEyedBoh

The truck is new with 1800 miles on it.
Haven't clayed it but it feels decent.
Definitely needs it and plan on doing it
soon with a clay puck from Griot's.

Hopefully I don't need to polish it afterwards.
Being white, I can prolly get away from it.

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•I’ll recommend that you do not cut any
corners in your Duragloss-ing processes.
-Even if it’s just using a very light polish,
I always polish after Claying.

•If you will follow Richy’s guidelines that’s
posted above to a tee, you’ll notice that
the first step is using the 501/601 combo.
-That combo will give you that ‘very light
polishing step’ I’m talking about. And you’ll
be glad you did!


Bob

Thanks Yeah I'll have to suck it up and do it. I was going to wait until the fall to do it because of the heat... I dont have a garage. Now on the mix of the 501/601, that CANNOT be bottled and used as times goes on, right? I have to make and use what I make. No storing here, right?