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Hi all,
My brother has some orange peel left from a paint job from a repair that he wishes to remove. The plan I have for him is to use Meguiar's M100 with a CarPro Velvet pad and a Porter Cable DA. A couple of questions...
What speed do you recommend on the DA?
After removing the orange peel, what would be the next steps to do (polish products and pads). He has Pinnacle Cleaning lotion already.
Thanks for any help.
Ed
Removing orange peel from a previous repair is risky business for several reasons...
If the orange peel is that bad and much different than the original paint then you have plain evidence staring you in the face that the repair was not performed to the highest standards. With that knowledge, who knows what you have to work with? What else did they skimp on?
I'd approach the task with the understanding that while you may be able to improve upon the condition, don't expect perfection. And also be aware that if you can't get the result you desire a re-repair might be necessary.
All that said, I'd recommend going after the orange peel with 1500 grit paper to start, until you remove 75-80% of the peel and then finish with 3000 grit paper.
After that, just a standard compound and polish will finish the job.
Purchase a rotary, you'll have the best of both worlds.
OP is removed by sanding first.
i run my PC on top speed after spreading the m100 and an orange lake country pad. takes longer than with a rotary but it works
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyost
Here's something I wrote on this topic 7 years ago in 2013
How to remove Orange Peel using a Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher
Before
Okay, we started here...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...anding_015.jpg
After
And now we're here... note how I purposefully framed this shot up showing the center trim down the middle of the hood behind my hand so you would know this is the exact same area.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...anding_023.jpg
NOTE: I have never found the optimum compound for this type of work. My guess is a crap compound would work better than a great compound.
A compound where you can feel GRIT in the product, not like all the great compounds that feel like Jergens Hand Lotion.
:)
Thanks Mike. I did find that article a couple of weeks ago which gave me the idea of the products to use. I may have missed the last step to use after cleaning up the orange peel? What polish after using the M100?
Ed
If it were me and I wasn't going to use a ceramic coating then I'd clean it up using the BF One Step, (I'm lazy and this is a great product that's super easy to use).Quote:
Originally Posted by eyost
If I planned on using a ceramic coating then this means I can't use a cleaner/WAX as the coating won't bond properly.
If you're using Megs M100, (nice abrasive technology and nice product), might as well keep it in the family and follow up with M205 or M210
:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
Thanks Mike for the information. As always, you've been a great help. My brother's car only has one door that is an issue and wishes to get it back to match the others as best as he can. I will check out your recommendations.
Ed
Customers hire me to remove orange peel and have done a few.
I had a Dodge pickup that I worked on to remove the orange peel.
Horrible
First I sand it down using 1500 grit paper using it with a block.
Just prefer a block over DA with this step, more control.
Then I follow that using 3k paper using a DA to make it easier to buff out.
You can use a DA to but a rotary and wool pad makes it go faster.
As for the compound I use 3M Rubbing Compound followed by a foam pad with my DA using 3M Poloshing Compound.
Lastly a DA with a foam pad along with m205.
It is time consuming and can't be rushed but very rewarding.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app
Thanks for the information. Fortunately it is only one door to attend to. The folks that repaired his truck should be spanked.
Ed