wondering if anyone has tried the xce-8-125 forced rotation prior to release= kinda wondering if its a smoother ride compared to the 3401
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wondering if anyone has tried the xce-8-125 forced rotation prior to release= kinda wondering if its a smoother ride compared to the 3401
Quote:
Originally Posted by john b
Hi John,
I've had mine since July, and YES the new XCE-8-124 aka the SUPA BEAST is smoother, lighter and quieter. Here's at least one of my articles on this new version.
NEW FLEX XCE 3401 Corded and Cordless Polishers!
I've detailed about a dozen cars/trucks with this new tool and it is my first tool of choice. It comes with a 5" backing plate like the cordless CBEAST but after using it with the 5" backing plate for a while I chose to swap to the 6" backing plate as I prefer to use the 6.5" LC Hybrid Force pads on this tool so I can plow through a car.
Supa BEAST backing plate swap
Here's a huge vehicle I plowed through recently.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e5b30c3167.jpg
:)
thanks mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by john b
You are very welcome.
:)
More...
When it comes to pads for the NEW FLEX, I call it the SUPA BEAST because it's too much work and there's no clarity to refer to it by it's part number.
This tool will ship with a 5" backing plate. This means using 6" and 6.5" pads. I've posted multiple times showing pictures of the pads I've tested and to be honest, I have not found the perfect pad yet.
That said, the Buff & Shine 6" Uro-Tech Foam pads work well.
6 Inch Buff & Shine Uro-Tec Foam Pads
And the RUPES 6" or 150mm foam pads work well.
Rupes 150 mm (6 inch) Foam Pads
Me?
I used the new corded gear-driven FLEX with the factory backing plate for the first few months I had the tool and then before buffing out a SUBURBAN - I swapped out the factory installed 5" backing plate for the optional factory 6" backing plate and I ain't looking back.
Supa BEAST backing plate swap
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f68ae0ea4a.jpg
And now I can use the 6.5" Lake Country Force Hybrid pads - still my favorite pad for this tool.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...111dc02301.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler..._FINAL_026.JPG
:)
And just to add....
Out of the 4 primary factors that influence and affect the paint polishing process, the pad brand and style is usually the least important AS LONG as you're matching the correct "type" of pad to the process.
By this I mean, if you're compounding you would normally be using a foam cutting pad, not a foam finishing pad. This is what I mean by matching the "type" of pad to the process.
The four primary factors that most influence the paint polishing process
1: Abrasive Technology
2: Pad choice
3: Tool choice
4: You and your technique
But the above does ASSUME the person doing the work is using correct technique. Correct technique isn't that hard to learn either. You're going to move a polisher in one of two styles,
1: Crosshatch pattern, overlapping your passes by 50% making approximately 8 section passes
2: Moving the polisher in the direction of the length of the panel - overlapping when possible making 10 to 12 section passes
Of course, paint hardness and/or softness is a factor. How deep or how shallow the defects are a factor. Buffing cycle is a factor. I'm not saying these things are not important I'm just saying the above 4 things I listed are the primary factors.
And then there's this,
Abrasive Technology - THE most important factor when it comes to polishing paint
:)