Been a while since I've been behind the machine - Looking for advice

So I can’t say I’m 100% new to paint correction, but it’s been more years than I’d like to admit since I was last able to really put pads to paint. The biggest thing I’ve realized is that I don’t think I’ve done any real correction since I’ve started on the forums here and Autopia.


When I was doing corrections, I was working off of the info I’d read that came with my polisher. To be perfectly honest, looking back I feel like I was mainly going through the motions of the process vs putting thought into things like test-spots and really focusing on results. Heck, I didn’t even know back then about proper pad count etiquette (these were the Griot’s Machine Polish 1-4 and 6” thick foam pad days... Shoot- now I’ve really dated when the last time I really polished was! :eek: )


Since being on here, I’ve added to my arsenal. I’ve also collected myself into a LSP conundrum, but that’s a subject for another thread...


What I’m working with (Yes, I’m a Griot’s fanboy...): BOSS Fast Correcting, Correcting, and Perfecting Cream. I’ve also got their complete compound, but I’m not sure where that would fit in needs wise with the BOSS creams on hand.
BOSS Microfiber Pads (the ones with the red foam), BOSS Correcting Pads, BOSS Perfecting pads. Microfiber fast finishing pads (the thicker ones). Also have the Red Foam and Black Foam pads. Most pads are 5.5”, but I do have some 6.5’s as well. GG6 and GG3 polishers.




Unfortunately, a big factor of being away from paint correction is lacking the time required to do it. So, I’m now looking at the project with a different view - I need to work as efficiently as possible so I stand the best chance to get the job done.


Questions:


Foam Pad priming - I used to lightly butter the pads, then add small dots to reload. Is this still the way to go?


Microfiber Pad priming - My understanding is these need to be buttered, then same reload process? I don’t have air at home, but I do have a pad brush to clean/stand up the pads.


Machine Speed/Pressure - Back in the day, I would mark the backing plate, then usually polish at speed 5 (sometimes 6), applying enough pressure to slow down the rotation. This was with the thick pads. My brief experience with the thin pads, the machine is happy to really spin those things with the speed dial that high.


Is downward pressure as important, or should I take the long throw approach of letting the pad travel with less pressure and less speed (say 4?)?


Passes - I know this will vary wildly based on condition/other factors, but How many should I expect to start with? Am I better off trying to do fewer passes with Fast Correcting Cream, or do more passes with the Correcting Cream since it’s milder? I’m not going for 100% correction - they’re both Daily Driver’s. Time allowing, My plan is to chase the correcting phase with Perfecting Cream to try to best refine the gloss.


The cars are both Audis, so I’m anticipating harder clear. They both have had paintwork though, so I’ll be mindful of watching for differences.






I know, pretty Newbie stuff. But, instead of bumbling through, I’d rather ask you folks on here (especially with the time crunch). I’m much more of a read-advice person than the type to surf on YouTube.


Thanks in advance!

You are all set to pick up right where you left off. Do some test spots with the equipment you have and let simple machine weight tell you how effective it is. Audi's have always been on the harder side of the scale for me and my test spots start off with at least a medium cut product and pad.

I've always liked about 4-5 passes on a test spot to evaluate the abrasive result. Again, machine weight or MAYBE a little more pressure and at speed 5 or 6.

Paul A is right on the money. Just do a test spot.

If your looking to remove paint defects then a little down pressure won’t hurt at all. You generally want about 15 pounds downforce when correcting. Remember, your Griot’s Machine weighs around 5 pounds, so you’ll want about 10 more pounds of down pressure, if that makes sense.

Use your bathroom scale and push down on it with your hand until you hit 10 pounds. It will give you an idea of what you are looking for.

If you are machine waxing the weight of the machine is about perfect, but for any kind of swirl or scratch removal you generally need a bit of elbow grease. Your test spot will tell you all you need to know.

Just to add....


Watch this video - it will show you everything you need to know to buff out a car by machine.

It also is very detailed on HOW to do a Test Spot.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulWXODgg8V4


Substitute the tools, pads and products you have for what I show.


Griot's BOSS creams are very good.



:)

Off Topic: Ya picked a wicked weekend (weather wise) to attack you vehicle. Be careful in this heat.

Bill

Paul A. And DiryCanuck - thanks for the feedback. Bottom line is I just need to get out there and get after it.

BillE - Thanks for your concern! As it turns out, didn’t end up having a free moment to get out and start over the weekend. I think I’m going to take a Friday off work sometime to have the whole weekend to work with.

Mr Phillips - Thanks for the link. I’ll have to squeeze it in during lunch breaks. Big part of why I mentioned I’m more of a read-advice person vs watching the info on YouTube is that most of my forum reading/research is done in quick little looks throughout the day. With work/commute/family, I don’t often have a ton of time to sit down and watch videos.