polishing question

uncovered the car & paint is clean. but I water less washed it anyway. then I clayed the paint & made sure everything was dry. the temp in the garage was 55 degrees(outside temp was 40ish). for some reason I'm finding the polish is really grabbing when I go to wipe it off. also it's grabbing a little when I apply it. I had one yellow foam pad start coming apart on me. pad did not get hot but when I took it off the face plate was pretty warm. It was a used pad and maybe I didn't have it on perfect. I'm using a rupes 15 with yellow pads & their fine polish. I used 4 to 5 dots of product the first time & them maybe 3 to 4 dots after. machine was between 4.5 to 5 setting. was the temp to cold & that's why it was hard wiping off ? or is that the nature of using a polish ? I don't remember ever having issues wiping off polish. most the time I use a AIO & then top with a wax. any suggestions to what I may be doing wrong ? thanks
Carlo

With the Rupes Keramik I like to start with four dots, and reload with two.

I like to run mine at speeds 2 - 4. They usually recommend speed 3 or 4.

Pads shouldn't be coming apart on you so fast. I's it possible you may have hit a molding, or an edge? How are you cleaning them between sections?

The face of the backing plate can get warm as there is a lot of friction at that connection point. Rupes recommends light to no pressure. Sometimes when a lot of pressure is used those microhooks can melt, and render the plate useless.

As far as the polish being difficult to wipe off... I use Keramik a lot. But in colder temps it can be a pain to remove. Backing off on the reload amounts helps a lot. There have been times where I only used on dot on reload..

While not the most difficult polish to remove, Keramik requires a little more "effort" than something like M205 or Poorboy's SSR (1, 2, 2.5, 3), regardless of the temprature.

thanks for answering dlc95.
1.How are you cleaning them between sections? I'll look @ the pad if not gummed up I'll reuse. once it's start to cake up I'll brush it off to finish panel. then I'll swap pads.

2.The face of the backing plate can get warm as there is a lot of friction at that connection point. Rupes recommends light to no pressure. Sometimes when a lot of pressure is used those microhooks can melt, and render the plate useless.
I went back and looked at that pad. it was coming apart on the backside between backing plate & pad. come to think of it when I stopped the machine you could almost stick a
pencil behind the pad. look liked it might have twisted some or was coming off because the face plate got warm.
3. Rupes recommends light to no pressure.
I'm usually pretty good on the pressure. most the time I'll let the machine do the work. I will say the mustang has a lot of curves. that makes it pretty hard to keep the pad nice and flat in the curves & valley.

this was the first time I've ever had an issue(in 3 yrs.) & was a little concerned. so I'm guessing I was putting a little to much pressure in the curves & valleys. and this caused the face plate to get pretty warm and degrade the back of the foam pad. it was an older pad that's been cleaned a few times. so I thank you Sir for reply.
Carlo

No prob!

I forgot to ask if you have the washer mod installed, or if you're running the factory settings.

Parr of the reason for the anti-spin is for the health of the pads. Unmitigated rotation facilitated by the washer mod increases open air rotations, which puts additional stress on both the adhesive in the pad, and hook & loop engagements.

Well I don’t know! I just started using it when I bought it 1 year ago. How do I tell?


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Sounds like sticky or soft paint may need to change compound. Try Woolf gang uber range or rupes uhs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hmardown

Well I don’t know! I just started using it when I bought it 1 year ago. How do I tell?


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If you got it brand new, you probably don't have a washer mod.