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Was using my rotory buffer, on my 70 cutlass, and it grabed right now. this is what happened . Is there any way to make this look better ( I have blue on my cloth, so I went to base color) . This is at eye level right between the vinyl top chrome and the drip rail molding, will be seen . Car is a halo top car. People have helped me before fix my screw ups, so I hope you can help me again. Thanks
One more thing, this car was wet sanded down with 2000 grit, before buffing. I painted the car two weeks ago, and had major orange peel.
How long has the paint cured for, before sanding and buffing? May not have let it cure for long enough?
Sorry, saw 2weeks. It may need to sit for longer before you get into sanding.
DMac
you are going have to reclear the entire panel.
The why is either you wet sanded too far or layed too hard on the fresh clear with the buffer ( too much heat)but 2 weeks should be plenty of time .
I usually wet sanded and buffed the next day at the body shop I worked at.
Too bad about the rub through and orange peel,,I really like that color on that car.
What kind of clearcoat and hardner/activater did you use, what was your mix ratio 4-2-1.
Napa cross fire , mix 4-1-1
Well i thought i had sprayed every kind of paint made, but i actually have no experience with that one.
Is this a paint you sprayed before, are you sure they gave you the correct hardner/activater.
Two weeks dry time should be plenty of time, but the paint issue you are having look like not enough cure time before buffing.
could you just burn in a small area with clear and blend it in?,,
is this a result of a foam pad?,,I have done this a couple times and it's always a "grab" with a foam pad and on a curvy area such as that
Wool pad on a rotary buffer. If I have to reclear whole panel, that would include roof, quarters, rockers ,and rear filler between trunk lid, and glass, there are no panel breaks! ( no lines to mask to )
aww man,,,super bummer :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustbuket