Coatings require stripping polishing oils but aren't polishing oils beneficial?

Hi, I'm trying to get into to detailing and deciding what products to try since I just purchased my first car (it's used).

I've seen people mention that car paint/clear coat dries out so applying polishing is beneficial because it "nourishes" or "moisturizes" the paint and prevents drying out. But coatings, such as Duragloss 111, require not having polishing oils on the paint so the coating can bond.
So does paint actually dry out and if so, is regular polishing and waxing or a coating gonna be my best bet to prevent clear coat failure? My previous 12 year old car had severe clear coat failure where the sun hit it hardest while parked and preventing that is my goal as well as just having a great looking car.

Older lacquer paints could "dry out" but that doesn't really happen with modern paints. Today polishing oils are most useful for providing lubrication during polishing, and they can provide some swirl-hiding. If you are trying to prevent CC failure, then you want to keep as much sacrificial wax, sealant, or coating on your car as possible, applied as frequently as possible. On the other hand that doesn't mean you have to be "waxing" your car once a week--it kind of depends what the UV is like where you live.

Instead of entertaining any notion
of removing polishing oils in order
to apply Coatings to "squeaky clean"
panel surfaces...

You can stick with using just Waxes
and Sealants for your LSPs. *Most often,
you can just go right ahead and apply
Waxes/Sealants immediately after the
polishing processes have been completed.


*Note:
As a "Best Practice"...
Follow the LSPs' manufacturers'
application recommendations.



Bob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Themikerobe

Hi, I'm trying to get into to detailing and deciding what products to try since I just purchased my first car (it's used).

I've seen people mention that car paint/clear coat dries out so applying polishing is beneficial because it "nourishes" or "moisturizes" the paint and prevents drying out. But coatings, such as Duragloss 111, require not having polishing oils on the paint so the coating can bond.

So does paint actually dry out and if so, is regular polishing and waxing or a coating gonna be my best bet to prevent clear coat failure? My previous 12 year old car had severe clear coat failure where the sun hit it hardest while parked and preventing that is my goal as well as just having a great looking car.

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Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:


Great questions and as mentioned by Mike aka Setec Astronomy, the polishing oils are beneficial to old school single stage lacquer and enamel paints but don't really do anything for modern clearcoated cars.

Best thing you can do is follow some advice I've been sharing for decades...


"Find something you like and use it often"

Find a wax or sealant and a quality car wash and use them. Get some quality wash mitts and drying towels. You'll wash and dry your car a LOT more often than you'll wax it so make sure ANYTHING that touches the paint is of the highest quality you can obtain.

I have a number of articles on this forum on how to carefully wash a car, they have a lot of tips and techniques.

Also, watch this video,

This video shows 4 ways to wash a car. To my knowledge, this is the first time ever in a video that the Gentle Approach and the Aggressive Approach have been SHOWN and EXPLAINED.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2uSYvuLucA


:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Themikerobe

But coatings, such as Duragloss 111, require not having polishing oils on the paint so the coating can bond.

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The good news here is that 111 - while incredibly durable - is not a paint coating in the modern sense. Nowhere on the bottle does it indicate the necessity of bare paint to bond.

In fact, the label indicates that it can remove scratches, tree sap, bugs, and tar!

While I would assume that the polymers in the formula will fill in light hazing, there must be something in the formula that facilitates the breakdown of tree sap, bugs, and tar. If 111 can handle those elements, it won't have any problem with polishing oils.

This is why I pair 111 with my Menzerna details.

Products like Meguiar's M205 Ultra Finishing Polish, and M21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0 are an excellent pairing, because the oils in M205 actually benefit the M21.

Google "Mike Phillips miscible and immiscible".

Good info thus far but let me add a little more emphasis to what Setec mentioned...UV! In my opinion, its the UV attack that degrades vehicle paint the most. Careful here, gang, I said in my opinion (and like Mike P, I'm no scientist and have never claimed to be one). Because I subscribe to that thinking, I ALWAYS have something on mine and the wife's car to play catchers mitt for that spectrum of sunlight. Again, in my opinion, its the UV attack that degrades clearcoat the fastest and keeping it covered with a sacrificial barrier is my defense.

As far as polishing oils relating to hydrating or moisturizing paint and as previously mentioned, I'm not convinced that's needed with today's paint systems. With an older lacquer paint I have always been amazed at Mike P's application of Meg's #7 to "recondition" and restore some luster.

And not to get too far off topic (but related) is the one thing i learned from Mike's "Miscible vs. Immiscible" article - the best assurance is to follow the manufacturers recommendations and stay within the brand family.

From what I gather from Dr. Ghodussi of Optimum fame, UV inhibitors in paint have a finite lifespan, hastened by harsh wash techniques, and frequent polishing (or removal of clear coat).

Good news again, is that he created Optimum Car Wax to address that issue. The UV inhibitors will stay in the paint, long after the wax has worn away.

Their line is all about efficiency, and product synergy.

I used Meguiar's #7 then topped with Duragloss 111. Made it alot deeper in color vs just Duragloss 111 by it self.

http://www.pbase.com/zippyzx3/image/157251934/large.jpg




Sent from my MotoG3 using Autogeekonline mobile app

Thanks everyone for you info! And thanks Mike for your help not only with this question but all of your knowledge that you've put time into sharing! I've read and watched so much from you.

Considering all your guys' info, I plan to strip the polish before applying my sealant since it seems like the consensus is modern paints don't need polishing oils. I also get that stripping probably isn't beneficial if staying within a product family and the directions don't require it but I have nothing but time so I might as well if it makes me feel better! Haha!

And Paul A. and DLC95, I agree on the UV exposure! The rays are very harsh here in the high desert (4,500') that is Salt Lake City, Utah. Many of the cars I see with clear coat failure, have the failure on the roof or in the case of my families cars, it's the Southwest sides of the cars when parked in their usual spots. It's possible any good waxing​ routine would've prevented this clear coat failure but I plan to use DG111 which has UV inhibitors in it and the Optimum Car Wash DLC95 mentioned as it has UV inhibitors in it also. I'm so glad you mentioned it! I had been looking for something exactly like that actually - an easy to apply was with UV inhibitors to apply on top of my sealant - and somehow didn't come across OCW.

Thanks again everyone! You calmed my over-analytical mind and now I'm settled on my first products.