FLEX 3401 or RUPES? - A question I get asked a lot! -Mike Phillips

FLEX 3401 or RUPES? - A question I get asked a lot! -Mike Phillips


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The other day ago I signed a FLEX 3401 for a customer, (thank you that means a lot to me to be asked to sign tools), and then shared this on my Facebook page. The first question posted was,

Flex vs Rupes? Which is better?


Here's what I replied,

If I had a dollar for every time I was asked this question I'd be wealthy



Here's my real answer and I've been consistent in my answer since the day Autogeek became a distributor of RUPES brand. (We were a distributor for FLEX for years before we became a distributor for RUPES).


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First - comparing the FLEX 3401 to any RUPES orbital polishers is comparing apples to oranges.

Why?

Because the FLEX 3401 is a GEAR DRIVEN orbital polisher. All of the RUPES tools are FREE SPINNING orbital polishers with the exception of using the rotary attachment on the iBrid. So it's really a useless comparison but I think this fact needs to be pointed out because a lot of people simply don't know or understand the difference. This could be because they've never seen nor used either tool. It could be because they are new to detailing or new to machine polishing and as such, they simply don't know the unique characteristics of the FLEX 3401 vs. any of the RUPES free spinning tools.

It's all good and I understand that others don't understand so that's why I say/type that comparing the FLEX 3401 to any RUPES free spinning tool is comparing apples to oranges.


Here's a video from 2012 that explains how the FLEX 3401 works...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAmojb8XIuk



FLEX 3401 will turn and churn any pad or product
Both FLEX and RUPES make great tools but the FLEX 3401 will work with just about any pad and any compound, polish or cleaner/wax. (these are products that use abrasive technology). The most important thing when using a FLEX 3401 is to use quality brands that use great abrasive technology in their compounds, polishes and cleaner/waxes. Also thick pads tend to work better on any gear-driven tool. Thin pad designs are primarily for free spinning orbital polishes and there's less mass for a free spinning tool to maintain pad rotation.


RUPES is not a tool - it's a paint polishing system
RUPES engineers engineered their tools to work as a system. This means the tools, the backing plates and the buffing pads are all specifically designed to work together as a system. I came up with a test to demonstrate this fact and when I went to Norway in 2016 as the special guest of RUPES for their first European BigFoot Seminar, I shared this with Marco D'Inca the head engineer for RUPES BigFoot and I could tell by his interest and expression this was the first time he had seen this test of his tools and pads.

Here's my article on this and it's also in my RUPES how-to book on page 7


The Air Test - Using NON RUPES pads on RUPES Polishers by Mike Phillips

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I even titled my RUPES book to INDICATE it is not a tool but a system.

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So when people ask me


Mike,

Which is better? The FLEX or the RUPES?


My answer is,


If you're asking about which is better, the FLEX 3401 or any of the RUPES free spinning polishers, then you're comparing apples to oranges.

If you're going to go with RUPES then go all in. That means, budget for and purchase a RUPES tool, the matching pads and the matching compounds and polishes.

AFTER you become experienced and skilled with their SYSTEM - then if you want to start experimenting with other pads and products go for it. And if you run into trouble maintaining pad rotation with NON-RUPES pads or if you experience VIBRATION with NON-RUPES pads then you know how to get out of this problem. Simple - go back to RUPES pads.

If you run into trouble with NON-RUPES compounds and polishes then simple - go back to RUPES compounds and polishes.


The FLEX 3401 is a beast and it doesn't really care what pad you place on it as it's going to maintain pad rotation no matter what the shape of the body panel. But just like ANY tool for buffing paint, the MOST important factor is the abrasive technology.



Whether you want to go with FLEX or RUPES - the good news is here at Autogeek we carry both!





On Autogeek.com


FLEX Power Tools


RUPES Power Tools




And no matter which tool you go with, be sure to get a copy of my book for each tool and my recommendation is to read it from cover to cover before even removing the new polisher from its box.


How to use the Flex XC 3401 VRG Dual Action Polisher
For both Production Detailing & Show Car Detailing

How to use the RUPES BigFoot Paint Polishing System
for Production Detailing and Show Car Detailing



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:dblthumb2:

Here's the real deal on the topic of FLEX vs RUPES or ANY tool...


If you put the time in behind the buffer you can make any tool dance on the paint...

It's not just about the tool - it's about you.


Once you make your decision as to which tool you're going to go with, the next thing is to start spending time behind the tool. This means start buffing out cars. After you buffed out plenty of cars, that is you have hundreds of hours behind the tool of your choice, then with the right pads and products you should be able to make magic happen.


Making these two tools dance on paint...



Edging with the FLEX 3401 at one of our detailing classes


How to use the Flex 3401 to remove swirls & water spots

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Buffing a tight area UP ON EDGE using a RUPES BigFoot 21

Custom Paint Job - 1980 Corvette - RUPES & Gyeon - Extreme Show Car Makeover at Autogeek


Buffing on edge with the RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark II

I cover this technique on page 64 of my RUPES how-to book.

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:)

Also...

A lot of people take our 3-day detailing classes because at our classes you get to use ALL THE TOOLS and you get to use them on really cool cars.

Then by the time the class is over you know which tools you don't like and which tool is for you.


Next Competition Ready Class is May 5th, 6th and 7th 2017



Click here to sign-up or for more information



The focus of our classes is always - Hands-on training.

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People learn by doing... not sitting in a chair listing to someone blather on for hours... -Mike Phillips






The next class for 2017 is May 5th, 6th and 7th



How to sign up for a class

To sign-up over the phone, call Andre to reserve your seat before the class you want to attend sells out.

1-800-869-3011 x244


You can also sign-up online

Click here to sign-up for the February Competition Ready 3-Day Detailing Class


Price for 3-day class: $1,795.00


Note: Our classes always sell out so once you clear your schedule, get signed up before it's too late. At this time we hold these classes three times a year.



At Competition Ready Classes you learn both production detailing and show car detailing. You learn wet sanding and so much more. We always have cool cars for the class to learn on.



You will learn to take cars that look like this....

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And make them look like this.....

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The Competition Ready 3-Day Detailing Class takes place on a Friday, Saturday and Sunday.




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OPTIONAL - IDA Skills Validation Testing

If you want to become an IDA Skills Validated Detailer, we give the Skills Validation practical test on Monday following the three day class. You have to have already taken and passed the online Certified Detailer tests.

More information about the Skills Validation Testing here,


IDA SV Certification Testing at Autogeek




:)

Awesome write up Mike!

so many people get hung up on what tool is better, An analogy I use is a painter does not use only 1 brush to create a master piece.

Both great tools and Im happy I have both in my arsenal.

What I like better someone might find something thats better for them. different strokes for different folks.

Nice write up.

I think detailers can consider themselves lucky these days to have so many options. When I first got into this hobby (for me), it was Porter Cable, the Cyclo, Griots, and a few Flex options. Now, there are so many more options, and for the most part, the quality of the tools are excellent. I have my PC 7424XP and a first gen Rupes 21. having choices are great, even better when the options are all good!

This could not have been more perfectly stated.

I totally agree with 100% of it.

To this day, when someone says:

Dual Action - I think 3401

Random Orbital - I think 7424xp/LHR21ES, etc.

Generally speaking, off the shelf I see the Flex 3401 as more of a universal tool. Where the Rupes is a bit more specialized, considering that it's an entire system, with it's own recommended technique and approach direct from the manufacturer/engineer.

I still see the 3401 as the "missing link" between a rotary and a random Orbital.

Mike I was recently trying to find the thread from a few years ago from when I visited the show car garage to "get my own answer" to this question. It was right as the DP Paint Coating was coming out and we did a little write up on the yellow Ford Phaeton that was in the shop.

Spoiler alert, I chose the Flex, but soon after picked up a Rupes 15 to go with it. Both are EXCELLENT tools!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thank you for taking the time to put together such an in depth and comprehensive review of these tools and "systems" Mike.

PS You are already a wealthy man, based upon you're willingness to share your knowledge and passion with us and all those around you over the years is priceless.

Thank you for sharing the wealth.

:cheers:

Sometimes we Just need to go thru the process. Keep buying until we find the right tool for you.

Thank you for this! The Flex is a beast! I love my Flex 3401. That being said, I STILL USE my PC7424XP for applying Sealant/Wax or small scratch repair areas. Thank you for your article as I agree...you can't compare apples to oranges.

Both Rupes and Flex have their own following and are both excellent tools for detailing!