Detailing a vehicle with 40 year old single stage enamel metallic paint

Hi folks:

Can anyone tell me the correct procedure to detail the paint on a vehicle with 40 year old single stage (enamel) metallic paint? I have a 1977 Chrysler Newport with original paint. The paint color is called Forest Green Sunfire Metallic. The paint looks good, but I want to make it look its best.

Wash, and then what products to use in what order? I want to polish and wax. I may need to use a clay bar to get out some stubborn areas of dirt. Please suggest both products and exact steps to take.

I'm a first time user of this forum/site so please excuse any mistakes.

Thanks for your consideration!

Peter

From Mike Phillips...

"Single Stage Metallic Paint = Difficult to Restore
Single stage, non-metallic paints like the above paint on the Ranchero are actually very easy to fix because the problem is for the most part just topical, that is the problem is just on the surface. All you have to do is remove the dead paint off the surface and if there's enough paint left then it's just a matter of polishing what's left to a high gloss. The most difficult paints to restore are single stage metallic paints."

Here's some good info on single stage, and where that quote above was taken from...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ge-paints.html


You mentioned that the paint was actually in decent shape, so that could be good news for you!

Like mike said ''single stage metallic paint= difficult to restore''
in my experience a polish can usually help. Depending on how bad/oxidized will vary.

Also interested in this.

Anyone that has any interest in working with antique single stage paint needs to click on the above linked article and read it thoroughly. There is nothing like it on the internet. Probably the most comprehensive and detailed article involving single stage paint anywhere. I regularly get asked to work on classic cars for a friend that owns a restoration and custom shop and this article has made every bit of difference. IMO probably one of Mikes best written works.

m7 bath is best way to restore color and hide swirls least agressive

this is the route to go if you like appling an LSP

another great option is to machine polish..maybe even compound if needed, and then panel prep it for a ceramic coating like gtechnique CSL

3d adapt with boss yellow pad restored my metallic blue amc paint
mine was serverly oxidized from the start pics are on my FB

PS is untouched, DS is hand polished
https://scontent.fagc1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...c9&oe=59141A7E

hood was hand polished, fender was machined with HD adapt
https://scontent.fagc1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...8c&oe=59233A55

oxidized side
https://scontent.fagc1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...2f&oe=591AEBB8

machined
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater

light orange peel removal with 3d adapt with carpro denim pad, and ceramic coated
https://scontent.fagc1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...e9&oe=591E08D5

truthfully, I think best overal method will be to follow procedures in Mikes #7 article
then machine polish with Carpro Essence on a gloss pad followed up by panel wipe and ceramic coat..

Ceramic coat is worth it on single stage paints from resisting re-oxidation
wish I would of done that first time around instead of using polish Angel Viking coat(almost made the claimed 1year) before oxidized again(just horizontal panels)