is this needed step for basic every day drivers or only if there are issues present?
And what clay bar products work the best - so many brands!
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is this needed step for basic every day drivers or only if there are issues present?
And what clay bar products work the best - so many brands!
A basic every day driver will receive the most contamination IMO. And if the car is not garaged it may be worse depending on geographical location.
Claying will make the surface smooth and allow for better bonding of the paint protection. Plus it just feels much better to the touch when wiping down during regular maintenance!
Doing a SEARCH reveals these informative threads from Mike:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...highlight=clay
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...highlight=clay
This is real simple to "know" if you need to clay your car's paint.
Get a clean sandwich baggie and after FIRST washing and drying the car (so it's clean without dirt or dust on it), feel the paint with the baggie.
If you feel little bumps on the paint - you need to clay.
:)
Here you go....
The Baggie Test as seen on Competition Ready TV with AJ and Mike Phillips
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105518
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105519
The Baggie Test
The Baggie Test is a simple test anyone can do at home in their garage to check and inspect if their car has contamination that needs to be removed.
You should always do the baggie test to a clean, dry car. So wash and dry your car before you do the Baggie Test. And keep in mind that if you discover little bumps on the paint when you feel the paint through the sandwich baggie AND you just washed and dried the car - this means these contaminants have a strong enough bond to the paint that they DIDN'T WASH OFF and this means you need to use detailing clay to remove these contaminants.
How to use the Baggie Test to inspect your car's paint
Step 1: Wash and dry car.
Step 2: Feel the paint first with your clean, dry hand.
Step 3: Now feel the paint with your hand inside a clean plastic sandwich baggie.
NOTE: Use a light touch so you don't accidental scratch the paint anytime you're doing the baggie test.
Results from the Baggie Test?
If you feel little bumps on the surface this is a sign that your car's paint is contaminated and needs to be clayed.
:)
How to clay your car
For Kyle Tucker's 1970 Chevelle "The Villain" - we used Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System.
Step 1: Kneed the Mothers clay bar into a patty about the size of a pancake.
Step 2: Spray some Mothers Instant Detailer onto a section of paint.
Step 3: Rub the clay patty back and forth using straight line motions over the section of paint.
Step 4: After you feel the clay patty begin to glide effortlessly over the paint stop claying and use a clean microfiber towel to wipe off the residue.
This section is now clayed and you can now move onto a new section of paint. Divide body panels of your car into smaller sections, about 2 feet by 2 feet or smaller and after claying a section and wiping it dry, move onto a new section until you have clayed all the horizontal surfaces. If you feel contaminants on the vertical panels using the baggie test you can clay these surfaces too.
After claying your car you should apply a fresh coat of wax. The Mothers Clay Bar Kit includes a sample of Mothers Synthetic Wax which contains enough wax to cover an average size passenger car.
Here's AJ about to inspect the paint using the Baggie Test
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105523
Use a light touch - that's all that's needed to inspect your car's paint for contamination.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105524
You can also inspect glass and other hard surfaces and if you discover little bumps it's okay to clay these surfaces also.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105525
Mike explains where contamination comes from, which are any type of air-borne contaminants like,
- Overspray paint
- Industrial fallout
- Traffic pollution
- Tree Sap Mist
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105526
Mother's clay bars come in a protective plastic wrap to keep them clean until ready to use. Before using the clay bar remove it from the plastic wrapper.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105527
Next using your thumbs and fingers, knead the clay bar into a patty about the size of a pancake.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105528
Spray a section of paint using the Mothers Instant Detailer. Use enough product to make the surface wet so the clay patty will glide over the paint.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105529
Then placing your had flat against the patty of clay, rub the clay patty in a back and forth motion over a section of paint.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105530
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105531
Normally you'll feel the clay patty drag a little as it is removing contamination. As the contaminants are removed the clay will begin to glide effortlessly. This is a sign the contaminants on this section of paint have been successfully removed.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105532
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=105533
Next step...
After claying a section, use the Mothers microfiber towel to remove the residues and then move onto a new section. Repeat this till all the contaminated panels are clean and smooth.
:)
So I see options - Clay Bars - Clay rags -Clay Mitts - Megquires speed clay.
Is there a benefit to one or the other?
Im inclined to try a rag over the bar or even the speed clay but not at the expense of performance.
Seems the more i ask the more i need to ask. How do i determine what grade of clay bar I am in need of?
And what if I ere and get on that is too abrasive?
After doing a baggie test if your paint feels like 80-grit sandpaper consider buying a medium grade clay bar product. If you have some but not tons then consider a fine grade for this step.
If you do use the medium grade you might 'mar' the paint even with a good lubricant. That would require then some polishing to remove (ugh more work).
The fine grade will be a safe way or substitute a synthetic clay for this purpose too, Mike has some great videos on this selection.
80 grit[emoji23]
I recommend getting the Med. Grade as well.. I use it for just about every vehicle I need to clay. It’s pretty rare for it to marr OEM paint.
I don’t even own a fine grade claymitt.