Swirl removal

**Excessive Detail** · 04-23-2006, 09:31 PM

Hey guyz. I been wondering when removing heavy swirl marks I know you have to start with a somewhat abrasive product and a light cutting pad or a cutting pad, this were i get confused. Do you then step down with a less abrasive product and maybe a polishing pad or go straight to a finishing product or a paint cleansing lotion. Or do you o both. And whats the differeance b/t a finishing polish and a paint cleansing lotion?
Thanks

**proshine2004** · 04-23-2006, 10:08 PM

i go from a compound /cutting pad to a polish/ med pad then wax or go from the compound straight to the wax if the finish has no swirls .

**Mr. Clean** · 04-23-2006, 10:56 PM

Generally speaking, if you start off with a moderately aggressive SMR and use a cutting pad, you will need to at least add an additional step using a polishing pad. I have read where people have performed defect correction while using a polishing pad with a polish that allowed them to go straight to their LSP w/o stepping down to a finer polish.

Sometimes terminology gets in the way. Your question is a good example. If I read paint cleaner, I expect a product that cleans the surface leaving nothing behind but clean paint. That product won't perform any paint correction other than said cleaning. However a number of polishes clean paint and leave some protection behind, and some polishes clean/correct/protect.

**ScottB** · 04-24-2006, 10:33 AM

The term "heavy swirl marks" seems to suggest that you will need to start at the upward spectrum of polishes (maybe the most aggressive=compound). Machine (rotary or orbital) , pad choice (cutting versus, polishing) and speed with also dictate where and how to start for paint correction.

Depending on high abrasive you went (as well as the polish lines) you might need to do a repolishing and then j-eweling the finish with a finishing pad and polish. Here is one example :

Orange Cutting Pad -- Poorboys SSR 3.0 -- Speed 5500rpms random
then
White pad for polishing -- SSR 2.5 -- same speed moving to 6000rpms
then
grey finishing pad -- SSR 1.0 --similar speeds

basically moving from most abrasive to least. Some polishes like Menzerna break down well, and sometimes you could move from one and skip the middle ground.

**Excessive Detail** · 04-24-2006, 10:53 PM

I just ordered the Pinnacle kit with all six of the xmt products, from what I've read it seems to work well. I'm going to try all the 3 swirl removers from intermediate to fine to ultar fine, then the finishing glaze. Do you think this is a good idea? I figured I'd use a light cutting pad for the intermediate, then a polishing pad for the fine, and either a polishing or finishing pad for the ultra fine, what do you think?

**ScottB** · 04-25-2006, 05:48 PM

Originally Posted by Excessive Detail

I just ordered the Pinnacle kit with all six of the xmt products, from what I've read it seems to work well. I'm going to try all the 3 swirl removers from intermediate to fine to ultar fine, then the finishing glaze. Do you think this is a good idea? I figured I'd use a light cutting pad for the intermediate, then a polishing pad for the fine, and either a polishing or finishing pad for the ultra fine, what do you think?

great choice. I think you will be pleased. Remember to use some speed (upper spectrum on PC, lower on rotary) , a little pressure, and go it slow. No rushing a perfect canvas .... you will like the final glaze and can always cover it with any carnuaba as wanted.

**Moises_C** · 04-25-2006, 07:03 PM

Dont forget to post some pics before and after, i really want to know how the NXT works!

**BlackCoupe** · 04-25-2006, 08:06 PM

Originally Posted by Excessive Detail

I just ordered the Pinnacle kit with all six of the xmt products, from what I've read it seems to work well. I'm going to try all the 3 swirl removers from intermediate to fine to ultar fine, then the finishing glaze. Do you think this is a good idea? I figured I'd use a light cutting pad for the intermediate, then a polishing pad for the fine, and either a polishing or finishing pad for the ultra fine, what do you think?

Why not work from least aggressive combo to most, with a test area, to see what works? If something less than most aggressive works, you have saved time and paint. Just my .02.

**Excessive Detail** · 04-25-2006, 11:07 PM

When it comes in I'll take some pics. I can't wait to try it. I have to say I've been using meguairs d/a cleaner polish on some cars and it seems to work very well. I used it with a light cutting pad and when I was done I was able to go straight to the sealant without any type of finishing glaze. I also used poorboys 2.5 with a light cutting pad and than stepped down with the ssr 1.0 with a polishing pad and then followed up with poor boys EX-P sealant. It took some time but it looked great. I'll let ya know how the xmt works out. thanks for all the advice.

**ScottB** · 04-26-2006, 05:10 PM

Originally Posted by BlackCoupe

Why not work from least aggressive combo to most, with a test area, to see what works? If something less than most aggressive works, you have saved time and paint. Just my .02.

You are correct, very correct. The only reason why it was prescribed a little differently, as the poster offered that the car has heavy swirls. A finishing pad and finishing polish wont make a dent in these. Once you become acclimated to the abrasive nature of certain polishes you will jump to a specific level, but always safer to error on the side of caution.