Griot's Garage 3 inch polisher runs hot?

**dnoraker** · 07-23-2010, 08:10 AM

I just buffed a couple sections on the back end of a 77 Buick and it got warm, but not as hot as before.

The first time I used it, I had an LC yellow cutting pad with M105, so with the extra friction I bet that was why it was heating up so much. Was it not designed for that level of cutting? I've used a cutting pad and M105 on my G100 DA without that issue.

Mike Phillips · 07-23-2010, 12:06 PM

Originally Posted by dnoraker

I never went over 5. In fact, I think I was on something more like 4-4.5 when I first noticed how hot it was.

I have another car to do today, so I will try it again and see how it goes. Maybe it has a break-in period where it just runs hotter.

That doesn't sound right. Just to double check, we're talking about the new version that came out i the last year, not the old version from a year or more ago?

I punished the new model back when it came out and actually used it to remove sanding marks, the tool is not meant for this as I point out in my write-up but it never became hot to my hands and I was working it as hard as anyone could.

Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher - Extreme Demo - Warning!

One section of the test hood was thoroughly wet-sanded using Nikken #2000 Finishing Papers

Also used the 3" Mini Polisher for this project and it never became hot.

1994 Porsche Detailed for "Operation Comfort" Modeled by Brittany from Stuart, Florida

Originally Posted by Mike Phillips

To work on the paint under the whale tail, I used the Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher...

Originally Posted by dnoraker

The first time I used it, I had an LC yellow cutting pad with M105,

Which size pad?

Are you maintaining pad rotation? You have to use the tool carefully to keep the pad rotating, by this I mean you need plenty of product to keep the surface lubricated and you can't push down too hard or the pad won't rotating.

About the only pads that really work with this tool are the Griot's Garage 3" pads, anything larger and the surface area of the pad overcomes the power of the tool to maintain pad rotation.

Pad rotation is only important if you're trying to remove swirls and scratches, if a person just want to apply a wax then it's not crucial.

**dnoraker** · 07-23-2010, 12:28 PM

I just got the polisher in the mail two days ago, so it's brand new from AG.

I'm using the Lake Country 3" pads that came with the package deal, and I've used the yellow cutting pads and the white polishing pads. It seems to get the hottest with the yellow pads and I'm pretty sure I had enough compound on it (M105). I've been using the G100 for about 6 years and tried to have the same proportions of product.

Pad rotation was fine. I used varying degrees of pressure, maybe 5-10 lbs of downward force to start with, then letting up as I work an area.

It seems like it's hottest near the vents on the sides toward the head. It's not burning hot, but it's not exactly comfortable for longer periods of polishing. I only used it for some test spots and for pillars and bumpers, so it wasn't like I was trying to polish a whole car.

It's definitely a lot warmer than my G100.

I will keep working with it over the next few jobs I have. I have like 5 cars waiting in line for this next week, so I have plenty to test it on!

I will try to get a better idea of what makes it run hotter.

Mike Phillips · 07-23-2010, 12:43 PM

Originally Posted by dnoraker

I just got the polisher in the mail two days ago, so it's brand new from AG.

That is the new model launched about a year ago and it sounds like you're doing everything right so the temps you're seeing could be normal for the use of the tool.

One time I was buffing out a 1962 Ford Thunderbird M Series Factory Sports Roadster with my trusty, dusty Makita Rotary Buffer in Roseville, California for a Pro Bowler, (forget his name), and it was over 100 degrees outside. You could smell the plastic on the wiring inside the rotary buffer as though it were melting... I had to put a glove on my left hand to keep the head of the buffer from burning my skin...

Now that's hot....

Looked like this car... I have a few pictures somewhere of the actual car...

**Misterpaul** · 07-23-2010, 10:32 PM

One thing I never see when people complain about polishers getting hot or failing is any mention of the extension cord if one is used.
Proper Sizing and Use Of Extension Cords

I see the PC owners manual is posted here:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/Downlo...4xp-manual.pdf
You can see what they recommend for extension cords there and apply it to your GG.

Also don't run too many things on the same circuit (fan, radio, halogen lights, etc). You're probably keeping the motor from getting full current, but not overloading the circuit enough to trip the breaker.

**Flash Gordon** · 07-23-2010, 10:48 PM

Maybe you just don't have enough callisus on your hands. Might I suggest wetsanding your palms twice a day with 500 grit

**dnoraker** · 07-23-2010, 10:49 PM

Originally Posted by Misterpaul

One thing I never see when people complain about polishers getting hot or failing is any mention of the extension cord if one is used.
Proper Sizing and Use Of Extension Cords

I see the PC owners manual is posted here:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/Downlo...4xp-manual.pdf
You can see what they recommend for extension cords there and apply it to your GG.

Also don't run too many things on the same circuit (fan, radio, halogen lights, etc). You're probably keeping the motor from getting full current, but not overloading the circuit enough to trip the breaker.

Good points! I will double-check that. I think that same circuit would have just had halogens on it. No different than my other buffers that don't get that hot. The extension cord is a 12-gauge, 20-amp rated, so no problem there.