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  1. #21
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    Re: Black Label Coating - Streaking -which soft....

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek View Post
    Really?

    I have NEVER had one of these sprayers squirt like a squirt gun, only spray out a fine atomized mist.

    After reading your above statement I went out to the warehouse, grabbed a brand new bottle of the detailer and the booster, shook them well, pushed the lever to the >on< position, gave the trigger on both a healthy pull and both products atomized the liquid like normal.

    Call Nick this morning and cite this thread, (I'll have already sent him the link to it), and he'll send you either a new sprayer or a replacement bottle of product.





    Real simple... a streak or a dark patch is nothing more than excess product not removed.

    Think about it.... if the paint looks normal in some areas but other areas are darker, what could be the difference between the paint in these two areas? The difference is trace residue not removed.

    I would first to simply give the area a slow wipe with a plush soft microfiber towel. Like I describe here,



    The Final Wipe – Tips for creating a streak-free, show car finish


    Note: The final wiping technique is not for the initial wiping-off of the wax or paint sealant, but instead is for after the majority of product has been already been removed and now all you’re doing is giving the finish a final wipe.


    Turning a diamond in the rough into a glistening gemstone
    You started early in the morning by washing the car, then you clayed the paint, then removed all the swirls and scratches, then polished the finish to a super high gloss and after that you applied your favorite wax or paint sealant. You’ve taken a diamond in the rough and turned it into a glistening gemstone. After removing the wax or the paint sealant it’s time to give the paint one last final wipe to remove any trace residues and showcase all your hard work.

    Here’s a tip to help you insure there are no streaks or smears left on the paint and a technique that on some hard to work on paints that might be just the ticket for creating the perfect finish in any lighting condition.

    The Final Wipe
    After all the work is done, when it’s time to give the paint the final wipe-down before you stand back and say to yourself it is finished, and then you take your pride and joy for a spin around the block or turn the keys back over to the owner, you usually want and need to give the paint a final wipe-down to insure you didn’t miss any spots and to remove any trace residues off the paint that can stand out like a sore thumb in the right light at the right angle that will so easily distract everyone’s attention from the work of art you’ve created.

    This technique can often times help you to remove any stubborn streaks or uneven looking areas on the paint, and it’s exactly opposite of what I’ve often seen enthusiasts and detailers do my entire car detailing life.


    The Technique
    The technique is to wipe the paint down slowly using your best, premium quality microfiber polishing cloth using gentle, even pressure. Fold your polishing cloth 4-ways to provide plenty of cushion to help spread out the pressure from your hand as best as you can over the face of the folded microfiber.

    Fold your microfiber polishing cloth to create plenty of cushion to help spread out the pressure from your hand and to give you 8 dedicated wiping sides.









    The secret to this technique is purposefully moving your hand and wiping cloth s-l-o-w-l-y over the paint, not like a spastic crazy guy moving his hand at light-speed over the surface.



    How it works
    The way this works is really quite simple but let me break it down for you into simple terms so everyone can understand. When making the final wipe, your job is to remove all trace residues from the previously applied wax or paint sealant; that’s your job. While to the human eye the surface of your car’s paint looks smooth and flat, under a microscope it’s actually a landscape of hills and valleys, (which is high spots and low spots), as well as pits and pores and interstices. (Interstices = microscopic gaps and cracks in the paint)

    Trace residues remain in the lower imperfections on the surface and when you move a polishing cloth over the surface the fiber’s of the polishing cloth grab onto and removes residues off the high points the easiest. Again, your job is to remove all the trace residues and do it in such a way that you do no harm to the highly polished surface at the same time, thus you need to use a premium quality microfiber, folded 4-ways to help spread out the pressure of your hand.

    Now think about it, if you’re moving the microfiber quickly over the surface how much time do the residues on the surface have to transfer to the cloth? Seconds? Milliseconds? That’s not very long.

    That’s why wiping like a mad man won’t remove streaks or residues and could possibly inflict swirls and scratches back into the finish.

    Slow down to speed up
    Instead, how about moving the polishing cloth slowly over the surface and enabling the microscopic sized fibers to get into the low portions where once they make contact with any remaining wax or polymers, the residue will have time to transfer from the paint to the cloth?

    This is called the final wiping technique and most people would agree it makes sense. It also works most of the time for stubborn streaks that sometimes show up on dark colored paints but it’s also just a good technique when working on highly polished surfaces where your or your customer’s expectations are high.





    If you’ve ever spent upwards of 8 hours and/or longer polishing out the paint to perfection on your car, or a customer’s car then you know how much work goes into,
    • Washing the car.
    • Evaluating the surface.
    • Claying the paint.
    • Taping off trim, body lines, emblems and badges as well as hard, thin edges.
    • Removing swirls, scratches and other paint imperfections.
    • Polishing the paint to a high gloss.
    • Applying the wax or paint sealant.
    • Removing the tape and carefully wiping off any left-over residues around body lines and trim.
    • Removing the first and subsequent coats of wax or paint sealant.
    Now it’s time for the final wipe and the last thing you want is to do anything that could potentially instill any new swirls or scratches into the now pristine finish.

    That’s why as you progress through the process, after each step you have to be more and more careful when wiping off any compounds or polishes and usually as you progress through the process the quality of your wiping cloth increases along with your carefulness as that’s how show car finishes are achieved. You can’t just wipe with any old towel and do it in any old way. Show car work demands focusing on the task at hand and using your best skills and your best tools to reach the goal of a flawless show car finish.

    Rushing at the very end doesn’t make sense and if you instill swirls and scratches because you’re wiping off the car like a lunatic or not using your best quality polishing cloths, then that’s working backwards in the process.

    Simply put, sometimes you have to slow down to speed up.

    That is, sometimes using a slow wiping motion, or slow rate of travel, will be more effective at removing all trace residues and enable to reach your goal versus moving your hand and polishing cloth quickly over the paint. Sure at the end of the process you’re tired and ready to clean-up and be done with the car but the technique you use for your final wipe-down of the paint needs to be calculated, methodical and precise. And after you make the final pass and you lift your hand and polishing cloth off the paint you can stand back and admire your work and then say, “It is finished”.



    *****End of article*****


    If the above final wipe moving the towel very slowly over the surface does not remove the excess residues then at least you know the residues have a tight or strong bond to the paint.


    Next I would try misting the detailer onto one side of a clean microfiber towel and then repeating the slow wipe.

    Let me know if any of the above helps...

    I too have seen streaks with the coatings, not the detailer or the booster but I have seen streaks all my life with just about any LSP. It's just a visible sign of un-removed product.

    MF cloth would be good for this wipe down?

  2. #22
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    Re: Black Label Coating - Streaking -which soft....

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Mitchell View Post
    Your friend needs decaf!
    YES HE DOES!!!!!

    Here's the old thread about the weekend we spent doing his wife's Lexus.

    He NEVER stopped complaining, never understood why anyone would DO SUCH A THING, and quite honestly.... never appreciated it once it was all done.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lexi65 View Post
    MF cloth would be good for this wipe down?
    MF cloth as in bulk cloth sold by the yard?
    Or your more typical 16"x16" MF towels?

    BOTH would be yes. But bulk cloth usually is fairly thin, (300gsm range) and you don't have a way to seal the edges when cutting it.

    For most paints (that are not towards the soft side and like to scratch easily) any decent 360gsm or up towel can work. Better yet if they are 400(-ish) at LEAST for compounding and polishing wipe down.

    When it comes to LSP the sky is the limit. We've used 360 gsm to 1100 gsm and all have worked. The difference will be how 'tight' the fibers are, and whether or not you have long "plush" fibers on both sides of the towel(s). Honestly, you don't need long (plush) fibers on both sides as the dual-nap towels tend to have a wider working use, using the short sides for some tight areas, or areas where there is something that's a little dirty that you want to get into (and not have that dirt in your "plush" side). That doesn't however discount having at least a few nice plush dual sided towels for LSP duties. For those you'll do fine with 600 gsm to 700 gsm, as they are PLENTY thick when folded over. (The ultra high gsm towels are typically nothing more than two thinner ones sewn together around the edge then across the center from side to side - dividing it into quadrants.)

  3. #23
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    Re: Black Label Coating - Streaking -_-_- Follow with what now??

    Well, thought I'd add my experience.

    I used the PBL booster today for the first time. It was 66 degrees out today.

    Booster streaks like a mother. Rubbed so hard I thought I'd take the paint off and believe me, this stuff is a bear to remove the streaks. Worse than Klasse SG ever was. Not sure what's up with it, but that can't be a good idea for the coating to have to rub that hard to remove booster residue.

  4. #24
    Super Member StangFan25's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aim4squirrels View Post
    Well, thought I'd add my experience.

    I used the PBL booster today for the first time. It was 66 degrees out today.

    Booster streaks like a mother. Rubbed so hard I thought I'd take the paint off and believe me, this stuff is a bear to remove the streaks. Worse than Klasse SG ever was. Not sure what's up with it, but that can't be a good idea for the coating to have to rub that hard to remove booster residue.
    Could you share your process please? How you washed it, what you used, etc. Thanks!

  5. #25
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    Re: Black Label Coating - Streaking -_-_- Follow with what now??

    Foamed - dp xtreme
    Rinse
    Foamed
    2BW optimum car wash, incredimitt.
    Sheet rinse
    Blower the cracks and crevices.
    Blot water with Dry-me-crazy towel.
    Pulled into garage and allowed surface to cool.
    Applied booster with finger pocket.
    Wiped excess with a gold plush junior.
    Ate lunch
    Pulled car into sun to inspect. Streak city.
    Used super plush to buff out streaks.
    Invented new curse words.
    Took Advil for arms and back.
    Found a few more streaks to buff out.
    Reported results here.

  6. #26
    Super Member Tato's Avatar
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    Re: Black Label Coating - Streaking -_-_- Follow with what now??

    I've got a picture of what happens sometimes 12 hours after applying PBL Coating.

    (Sorry, not the best pictures but hope that helps to get the idea):

    Before shot (superior part of passenger's door / driver side):


    After shot1 (compounded, PBL coated, 12 hours later) - showing streak (blurry area):


    After shot2 (2 - 3 light towel pass (clean and Dry MF towel):



    Every coating application here is fully inspected after 12 hours of application. If I look careful enough, generally I can find 2 or 3 scenes like that on a coated car.

    In the case shown above, I believe that was caused by excess of product not wiped properly during application. Also, that may be because of 'incorrect overlapping application', I'll talk bellow about that.


    To avoid streaking, I try to do the following:

    - Start from TOP: that to avoid product overspray.

    I mean, if you do front glass before doing the roof, you probably is going to accidentally leave some drops 'fly' to already coated glass. That must be corrected during application process otherwise you'll find 'overspray' marks the day later.

    On glass, I've found the streaks needs more "pressure on towel" to be removed, I mean, a little 'passion' would be needed.

    - Keep applicator always WET:

    Using a 'dry' applicator may cause product to dry much faster while applying, which may not give you enough time to spread. That's one of the main causes of streaking.

    To solve this, try to mist your applicator often. I like using wax applicators just like the 'Blackfire Wax applicator' (not exactly, but very likely).

    - Dab the applicator to release product:

    When using the 'wet applicator method' I've told above, you can always be 'dabbing' the applicator over area you'll be coating to release product that'll spread streak free.

    I mean, from side to side, dab - dab - dab, then go back-and-forth over where you dabbed to spread released product.

    - Always try to overlap coated areas, but work until it disappears:

    If you've done driver's door, it's likely you'll hit 'accidentally' the start of passenger's door. When you're going to do passenger's door, in 'transition' area you already coated, you'll benefit from passing over it again (this may take a little work), until you 'regularized' the transition area. that may be done using up/down and even circular movements.

    After doing that, do a MF towel pass to remove product excess. Slowly pass the MF, like Mike Phillips related.

    If you find a hard to remove high spot during application, that may take more 'passion' as well, that means slightly more pressure, not the 'crazy spastic arm movement.

    - Work small areas at a time:

    Select a small area, damp the applicator, mist a spray over the area and start spreading in all directions, fast (but with criteria, not aleatory). If you feel product is drying too fast while spreading, just 'dab' the applicator like said above, and use a bit more passion (slightly more pressure) to do even circular movements to level the dried (almost) part.

    My last pass with applicator is always in a back-forth (or up/down) movement instead of circular.

    After ~1-5 minutes, go over already coated area with MF towel and do s-l-o-w-l-y to level it. Leave that alone.

    When you're done doing the entire car, inspect it over again and use MF light passes where you see irregularities.

    - 12 hours later, do a final inspection (under daylight or even under the sun), and do a slight towel pass like shown on picture above to remove remaining problems if any.

    Sorry, I know I've wrote a lot, but I've wrote it really fast because I'm 'under pressure' here.

    Hope I've helped, and haven't forgot any important part.

    If you need any more guidance, have any question, critics, suggestion regarding what I've wrote, please, feel free to ask.

    Thank you in advance.

    Kind Regards.
    “Nature is pleased with simplicity. And nature is no dummy”

    ― Isaac Newton

  7. #27
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    Re: Black Label Coating - Streaking -_-_- Follow with what now??

    Thanks, Tato! I'll definitely give that a try in the next few months when I reapply the booster.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by aim4squirrels View Post
    Foamed - dp xtreme
    Rinse
    Foamed
    2BW optimum car wash, incredimitt.
    Sheet rinse
    Blower the cracks and crevices.
    Blot water with Dry-me-crazy towel.
    Pulled into garage and allowed surface to cool.
    Applied booster with finger pocket.
    Wiped excess with a gold plush junior.
    Ate lunch
    Pulled car into sun to inspect. Streak city.
    Used super plush to buff out streaks.
    Invented new curse words.
    Took Advil for arms and back.
    Found a few more streaks to buff out.
    Reported results here.
    Uh huh!!!
    Imagine now how I felt that morning? We'd been working on that car for almost a week! (Well after we ended up keeping it 2 more days it WAS a week.)

    I honestly think there is something going on with the 'booster'! Don't have big streaking problems with the coating. Also don't apply it with foam of any kind. I use the suede microfiber approach as in Cquartz application. It REALLY helps guard against high spots (that can be attributed to over wet applicators).

    AG ended up sending me a new squirter (then after reminding Nick... *again*) a new BOTTLE. I'm afraid to use it!!!!!!

    My oldest PBL coating application out there was right after it came out and could use "boosting" about now. Thing is...... unless its 80 degrees outside, I'm so afraid of it streaking that I don’t want to offer it to my customer!

    This car is NOT one that I can keep for 2 days either. Last time, doing the paint correction and coating we had it 2 days and pulled an all nighter 19 hours straight AND gave him my wife's Denali to drive for a day!



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online

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