CarPro Reload as a topper for Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating?

[macro]

Losing it's beading/sheeting properties?

Did you prep the paint correctly?

Sorry I missed this earlier, but yes I prepped it by decontaminating the paint with ironX, clay bar and then polished the truck with wolfgang total swirl remover and finally applied the Pinnacle Black Label Paint Cleaner.

I think some of the lost slickness might be due to possibly not washing fully off the soap, so next time I wash it in a week or so i will use a bit less soap and rinse it much more.

Macro

[macro]

As I mentioned before:
Some Coatings' attributes do not showcase the same attributes/qualities as other classes of LSP's:
"slickness/continued slickness" over its expected service life, as one possible example.

Who'd ever want any Coatings on their vehicles whose qualities/attributes were said as being compromised...being lessened...
by the use of something as seemingly benign like its supposedly synergistically formulated car-wash shampoo.
What chances, then, do these kinds of Coating stand against the other, and more injurious chemicals it will be facing?

IMHO:
"Topping" a Coating should never be a requirement, in order to keep it: Being a Coating.

Bob

Totally agree!

Macro

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Sorry I missed this earlier, but yes I prepped it by decontaminating the paint with ironX, clay bar and then polished the truck with wolfgang total swirl remover and finally applied the Pinnacle Black Label Paint Cleaner.

I think some of the lost slickness might be due to possibly not washing fully off the soap, so next time I wash it in a week or so i will use a bit less soap and rinse it much more.

Macro

Keep us updated.

[MarkD51]

As I mentioned before:
Some Coatings' attributes do not showcase the same attributes/qualities as other classes of LSP's:
"slickness/continued slickness" over its expected service life, as one possible example.

Who'd ever want any Coatings on their vehicles whose qualities/attributes were said as being compromised...being lessened...
by the use of something as seemingly benign like its supposedly synergistically formulated car-wash shampoo.
What chances, then, do these kinds of Coating stand against the other, and more injurious chemicals it will be facing?

IMHO:
"Topping" a Coating should never be a requirement, in order to keep it: Being a Coating.

Bob

I think there's some truth about an importance of what Car Wash Soaps are then used after these Coatings are applied.

Case in point, is, about 4-5 weeks ago I washed the car with a Soap which I had a lot of on hand, and that was a big blue bottle of Zymol I grabbed from Wally World.

I'm usually pretty thorough with a rinse, but the car didn't look too good after. It could be some possible additions of other ingredients in the Zymol (Perfumes, oils, etc) that maybe didn't wash away clean, and left a film behind?

The next time I washed, I used the Duragloss Soap instead (DG901?) and the vehicle did seem to look better afterwards versus the Zymol Soap.

I didn't buy the DP, or Pinnacle Soaps-Shampoos, but now I'm beginning to believe I should've? None the less, the DG Soap seems like a good product, many here like it, and I can easily get it locally.

As has also been noted here, might be also wise to pay attention to mix ratios with any Soap-Shampoo.
Mark

[aim4squirrels]

I'll weigh in with my thoughts and observations being a Black Label Surface Coating user...

I believe one of the descriptors of the Black Label Shampoo is that it the only shampoo designed to boost the properties of the coating, which in and of itself seems a bit suspect. Why should a coating need a boost? Also, the fact that it (the shampoo, and the coating as well come to think) doesn't seem to be doing what is advertised by the OP is even more problematic and something I'd be taking issue with, if the directions were followed.

I too have applied the Black Label Surface Coating, and will be following this thread and other threads like it with great interest. I feel that there are a few issues that should be addressed regarding these coatings by their makers and proprietors.

Too often I think the blame gets thrown on inadequate prep. If you sell a surface cleansing product that must be used to insure correct bonding/adhesion of the coating, then it should be bundled with the coating at point of sale.

If the coating's failure or loss of characteristics is to be blamed on the temperature, then that needs to be clearly marked on the products label and sales description page. At this time, it is not listed as a factor. If the temperature at time of application can produce an acceptable result with a wax, one should reasonably assume that same could hold true for a sealant or coating. If not, then indicate as such.

If the coating is losing any of its features that are main selling points after a only month (slickness, beading, sheeting) that seems a poor indicator of future abilities to be effective and it's claims to durability.

I can assure all reading that after a full paint correction I applied the surface cleansing polish to the letter of the directions provided. I did 2-3 passes with the Flex on speed 3 with an LC 5.5" flat blue pad and worked it in good by hand where the Flex wouldn't go. Wiped it off the paint with cobra super plush towels until I could discern no residue with an inspection light before applying the coating. My leveling "issues" with the coating were documented here:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...oing-here.html

To date, I've had no loss of slickness or beading. As a matter of fact, Today 1/8/14 was the first water the car has seen since applying the coating on 1/3/14. The temperature on these 5 days possibly being a factor in the leveling; will it also be an issue with the protection? We have a slight drizzle going on, and assuming that the I did indeed remove all the surface cleansing polish and it doesn't have any oils, residues, or "beading" properties, I can confidently say the coating is indeed on the paint and performing it's job. Sheeting due to forward driving momentum seems to happen right at about 35 MPH on the glass with very, very fine water droplets, the kind you get on a misty day. Bigger droplets would probably collect and sheet at a lower MPH, but that has not been confirmed yet. It also seems to sheet off the paint just as easily. Beading is very small and tight based on the drizzle we've gotten.

Longevity and quality of advertised properties is still to be determined. Luckily, I did catch the Black Label Surface Coating on the Cyberbuster and 25% off sale, so I don't feel completely bamboozled or hornswoggled if its a bust. Still, given the amount of limited feedback and less than "AMAZING!" feedback comments, I feel the truth in the the marketing claims remains to be seen. I can't speak for the prep of those whom have posted and how that could weigh in on the results and longevity of the coating, but I feel confident in my prep steps before application. Time will tell.

[MarkD51]

Not sure of what this is worth? This afternoon, taking my 82 year old mother for a haircut, I walked outside and did the simple "fingernail test" on my shitbox Kia Spectra. The finish felt as hard as nails. I gather that hardness came from the DP Paint Coating. And that I think my friends is a good sign.

[cardaddy]

I was really wanting to try a coating a few months back but thought it out and not for me.
I now use WGGPS , it gives me protection, crazy shine and so darn slick.
In about six months I get to do it again

This past weekend I tried the BF Ice Sealant, now this stuff really, really rocks

My main reason for not buying a coating is my RAV has a SS paint, sealants just suits it better.
Coatings are great for those that choose that type of protection.
But is it as slick as some of the high end sealants?

I'd say it's every bit as slick as WG, Megs or Menz WOWO sealants. BUT, it 'feels' different. They have a very tactile and sensual feel to them. Not oily, but you know how your fingers feel when gliding across the surface of those is comparable one to another.

I don't think that BF or WG WOWA sealants feel like they do either. Not at all! Seems a bit more towards that 'sterile' feel.

Next there would be PBL. Seems very slick, but doesn't have that sensual feel to it.

As if all that makes any sense!

I reckon the same could probably be said about those who top some sort of Sealant with a Nuba Wax. That certain qualities of the Sealant are now lost, or diminished.

The hard sterile shine is now warmed up (which some like), many Nubas are said to attract more dusts, and there's then the wonderment if a Nuba with their solvents that came behind after the Sealant, and then possibly compromised the Sealant in some respects (like possibly actually removing them?)

Thus, as some would maybe say, a waste of going through the trouble, and a possible waste of money of applying a Sealant in the first place?

I would "think", that a Coating would have a better ability to stay adhered to the paint (provided application was properly done), that almost anything that would come behind as a topper would at least not compromise its longevity as one quality of these products?

It seems the OP is then seeking a topping product to lessen the loss of other qualities that these Coatings possess. Which I think we all are interested to some point.
Mark

Mark I'm glad you described that as "hard sterile shine" because it is truly different than a sealant, especially a WOWO sealant.

I'll weigh in with my thoughts and observations being a Black Label Surface Coating user...

I believe one of the descriptors of the Black Label Shampoo is that it the only shampoo designed to boost the properties of the coating, which in and of itself seems a bit suspect. Why should a coating need a boost? Also, the fact that it (the shampoo, and the coating as well come to think) doesn't seem to be doing what is advertised by the OP is even more problematic and something I'd be taking issue with, if the directions were followed.

I too have applied the Black Label Surface Coating, and will be following this thread and other threads like it with great interest. I feel that there are a few issues that should be addressed regarding these coatings by their makers and proprietors.

Too often I think the blame gets thrown on inadequate prep. If you sell a surface cleansing product that must be used to insure correct bonding/adhesion of the coating, then it should be bundled with the coating at point of sale.

If the coating's failure or loss of characteristics is to be blamed on the temperature, then that needs to be clearly marked on the products label and sales description page. At this time, it is not listed as a factor. If the temperature at time of application can produce an acceptable result with a wax, one should reasonably assume that same could hold true for a sealant or coating. If not, then indicate as such.

If the coating is losing any of its features that are main selling points after a only month (slickness, beading, sheeting) that seems a poor indicator of future abilities to be effective and it's claims to durability.

I can assure all reading that after a full paint correction I applied the surface cleansing polish to the letter of the directions provided. I did 2-3 passes with the Flex on speed 3 with an LC 5.5" flat blue pad and worked it in good by hand where the Flex wouldn't go. Wiped it off the paint with cobra super plush towels until I could discern no residue with an inspection light before applying the coating. My leveling "issues" with the coating were documented here:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...oing-here.html

To date, I've had no loss of slickness or beading. As a matter of fact, Today 1/8/14 was the first water the car has seen since applying the coating on 1/3/14. The temperature on these 5 days possibly being a factor in the leveling; will it also be an issue with the protection? We have a slight drizzle going on, and assuming that the I did indeed remove all the surface cleansing polish and it doesn't have any oils, residues, or "beading" properties, I can confidently say the coating is indeed on the paint and performing it's job. Sheeting due to forward driving momentum seems to happen right at about 35 MPH on the glass with very, very fine water droplets, the kind you get on a misty day. Bigger droplets would probably collect and sheet at a lower MPH, but that has not been confirmed yet. It also seems to sheet off the paint just as easily. Beading is very small and tight based on the drizzle we've gotten.

Longevity and quality of advertised properties is still to be determined. Luckily, I did catch the Black Label Surface Coating on the Cyberbuster and 25% off sale, so I don't feel completely bamboozled or hornswoggled if its a bust. Still, given the amount of limited feedback and less than "AMAZING!" feedback comments, I feel the truth in the the marketing claims remains to be seen. I can't speak for the prep of those whom have posted and how that could weigh in on the results and longevity of the coating, but I feel confident in my prep steps before application. Time will tell.

Mark, see my reply to your other thread about "the leveling".

I've a feeling it has to do with the finger pockets AND the temp at the time. The coating is terribly picky about how it's applied. Flat, flat and oh, FLAT when trying to apply it up and down, left to right, even diagonal (as long as you can see it working) but it's important that there not be finger pressure, rather a even pressure across whatever applicator is in use.

I have yet to, (and neither has anyone else that I've seen) see a single reply delving into the SCIENCE of any specific PBL coatings. After all, there are FOUR to choose from. Would go to reason that if one is indeed more suited towards a given surface that one would want to sing from the rafters what indeed (if anything) makes is so much more special than (insert competing product here).

Any YES I too bought into the "Elite Kit" within a couple days of it going on sale. I can say they smell a bit different. (As if that matters!)

Not sure of what this is worth? This afternoon, taking my 82 year old mother for a haircut, I walked outside and did the simple "fingernail test" on my shitbox Kia Spectra. The finish felt as hard as nails. I gather that hardness came from the DP Paint Coating. And that I think my friends is a good sign.

Mark, "fingernail test"? Really dude? By George that'll fix 'um!!! Them rat bastards! Honestly, I've not seen anyone make any 'hardness' claims other than what, Cquartz Finest perhaps? Yet if they are ALL a similarly based glass/ceramic/quartz based product then why do not all of them make the same claim to fame? Inquiring minds want to know?

All that aside, I see no reason not to put whatever gloss additive product on top during washing. I can say that DG901/902 (902 in gallon size) adds gloss to a well kept surface. By well kept I'm saying if you have a previously polished and sealed and/or waxed surface that 901 plays very well with it. For that matter, why not use something as simple as DG951 AW or Megs D156 both as a drying aid and an ancillary topper?

One thing that I haven't seen discussed is the choice of water in maintaining a coating(s) and whatever durability/beading/sheeting properties. That being DI or RO water. Acid rain being what it is, much is said about damage to painted surfaces from chemicals suspended within the water itself. Chlorinated water surely isn't exactly 'easy' on a coating that's expected to last for YEARS as it may be. Note to self, try to invent a DI system for under $150.

[FUNX650]

Here's some interesting information, just made available to me,
that I wish to pass on to you OP.

Seems to be quite a few "other" parameters to meet,
in order to have success with certain PBL products.

From this thread:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...oing-here.html

I did have a conversation with Nick and found that most of what he was sharing was common coating recommendations. He may have some different recommendations now that the product has been around and tested by more "end users" but what was shared is: you can recoat within 24hrs (recommended to assure 100% coverage), no exposure to water/rain for the 12 hr cure time, no wash for 1 week (and need to be gently washed at that point because the product is not 100% hardened) and maximum cure around 30 days (under normal curing conditions). Obviously cure time will be affected environmental conditions (ie. humidity, temperature etc.. )

It'd be nice if this above information was included in the products' descriptions/instructions.
It may have been a god-send to at least one AGO-forum member.

TO WIT (From this thread): CarPro Reload as a topper for Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating?

Bob

[macro]

Here's some interesting information, just made available to me,
that I wish to pass on to you OP.

Seems to be quite a few "other" parameters to meet,
in order to have success with certain PBL products.

From this thread:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...oing-here.html






Bob

Very interesting,

Thanks for the info Bob! I ended up washing the truck about a week later after applying it, so im wondering if I possibly was too hasty and it compromised the coating a bit.


Macro

[FUNX650]

Very interesting,

Thanks for the info Bob! I ended up washing the truck about a week later after applying it, so im wondering if I possibly was too hasty and it compromised the coating a bit.


Macro

Quite possible, it seems.

Also take note of the "total cure time".

Bob