Black Label surface coating, what's going on here?

[aim4squirrels]

Subbed for the outcome of this.
I also purchased the Elite kit, because it seem like a very easy process, when compared to other "Coatings"

Also just to contribute my .2cent to the OP.
If i have to guess, i'd assume this Pinnacle coating is some sort of "Sealant that is on steroids." But it is much more liquify compare to traditional sealants?

Because for coatings like OC , CQ , 22ple. The coating will not be removed by simply wiping with a MF Towel. You'd have to polish it off.

PS: Does anyone know, if the Pinnacle Black Label Coating provides any level of scratch resistance?

It is very liquid, and very much smells of IPA when applying.

As to the scratch resistance, I'd say no. I ran my fingers across the hood tonight just to check the surface, see if it did indeed feel like there was still coating there based on all the descriptions that have been posted up here. Felt a bit of grit and sure enough, there are very fine scratches in those exact spots.

My fault, of course. I should know better than to touch the surface without QDing it after 2 days even if it's in the garage. I wasn't going to introduce moisture just yet knowing I've obviously got some curing issues going on here. The fact remains it scratched just as easily as if there were no coating there. I can always buff it down with the SF4500 and reapply the coating.

Or, perhaps there is no coating there. I'm going to wait quite a while before washing. It's been over 48 hours now since first application, and I definitely applied liberally. The high spots I wiped out 16hrs later attested to that. I certainly hope I didn't take all the coating off when I rubbed out the high spots.

I just want to apply something that will make the upkeep of my car much easier and still look good. With a little kid barely over a year old running around all over the place, I don't have the time to spend 3 hours each weekend washing, waxing, and cleaning the interior. Got to wash it, dry it, and be done. I used the last couple of days of vacation to prep the car for max looks and the plan was to use the coating to lock it in after I got it there.

[aim4squirrels]

Now my question is, are there ANY paint cleanser or nano polish can be used without damaging trims / plastics? Because i HATE taping lol

2 things,

I have noticed that a fresh dressing or sealant on the trim makes a minor buffer slip clean up much easier.

Also, a strong dilution of IPA takes the polish right off the trim with just a little elbow grease. It makes sense, if you can use it to take the polishing oils off paint, you can use it on trim to do the same. Just be aware it'll leave the trim bare as well.

[john b]

Yea, I realize polishing once a month is crazy lol.
Back at that time, i was just getting started with Detailing.
And i purchased SO MUCH products that i want to try them all.
So i polished it once a month to just try all the different products.
But now i don't EVERR plan on doing that craziness.

Now my question is, are there ANY paint cleanser or nano polish can be used without damaging trims / plastics? Because i HATE taping lol

nano polish?

[aim4squirrels]

Ok,

Today was the first day my car has been in full sun for the last 2 weeks.

I just had a MOG moment. It looks absolutely fantastic.

I don't know what to say about the black label surface coating yet, but I know as most here do that the prep was the key. On black, the Menzerna SF4500 step was worth the extra 6 hours. So worth it.

No pics, sorry. It's cold guys, real cold today. 16 degrees and negative wind chill ain't how we roll in Texas. Maybe I can snag a garage shot, but it doesn't do the car justice like the sun does.

[281]

PBL is finicky with temps, at least that's been my experience. Of course I applied when temps was right at 60. I did miss a couple of spots and was able to buff out with mf towel and some work. I applied paint coating to mine and a friends mustang. There's probably only a slight difference between surface and paint coating. One thing for sure, after it cured for at least 16 hours on each car, the surface was super slick. As for scratch resistant, that's a negative! I found out a cat was chillin on my hood, footprints left at the scene, then decided to move and it definitely lost its footing resulting in a scratch on the hood...

[aim4squirrels]

Alright here's some pics, no comments on how messy the garage is, LOL.

Profile shot:


Here's an idea of the metallic flake reacts:


Here's a few reflection shots:



This really is a reflection of the garage door opener:





At the gas station:



I need some of these lights!



Scratch free=happy me!



It's cold, man.

[281]

That's a beautiful ride man! Love the lines on the challenger, can't wait to see what the cuds looks like...

[swanicyouth]

The car looks great.

I think what is going on here is the coating will bond to the paint to a certain extent. But, the chemist designed it to be easy at PBMG, so I think you are able to remove the high spots much much later.

It would be like if you left the lid off a gallon of paint and came back 12 hrs later. The gallon of paint wouldn't be "dry", it's like one big high spot. However, if you paint it thinly on the wall - the wall would be dry. Not a perfect analogy, but that is how I think of it.

[aim4squirrels]

Thanks for the complements, guys. I appreciate it.

I hope like heck they make the 'Cuda with that 6.2L hellcat that's been rumored before the CAFE laws tighten up in 2015.

The coating thing is fine with me if they made it that user friendly, my concern is that I might have rubbed it off trying to level it. I hope it's a case more like a wax or sealant, where when you put it on there's usually an excess that you remove and everything looks much better.

Time and moisture will tell for sure.

[cardaddy]

Wiped off after sitting overnight? I dunno' 'bout 'dat.
Temps I would bet played HUGE into that. I've not done but 3 different paint systems with it, all while it was upper 60's to 70's during the day, nothing lower than mid 50's at night. It noticeably flashed during application.

You said you applied it with the finger pockets, yes? It is my understanding those are for applying the wheel coating, whereas AG would have you use the yellow foam applicator for either the "paint" or "surface" coating. FWIW I think the yellow applicator might indeed have you using twice as much product as you need due to it absorbing so much. I can say however that it is a great deal softer, and MUCH flatter than you'd ever get the finger pockets.

I have tried the foam applicator but I still prefer the CarPro suede cloth like I'd use with Cquartz. Plus the cloth seems to save a TON of product, and goes a long way towards a smoother applicaton. Also, where you can buy 10 4"x4" pieces for $12.99 I buy the 10 16"x16" cloths for $19.99, then cut them with "pinking shears" (zig-zag sissors) and can make ONE HUNDRED SIXTY 4"x4" applicators. I mean 12.5¢ each versus $1.29 each is a no brainer.

I can say that with either of the two above ways to apply I've seen it flash pretty much the same. The foam has a noticeable sqqqqqqqqeeeeeekkkkk going across the paint as well. Where the suede cloth is quite and smooth.

Just thought I'd toss that out there.