Pinnacle vs Meg.

[Ohio Detailing]

"In my opinion, for whatever that is worth... there was no benefit at all [to bare hand waxing]" -Mike Phillips

THIS is exactly what I thought - and it's nice to be able to get a definitive answer from one of the foremost detailing experts on the planet. Thanks Mike.

[michelliot]

In contrast,

When finishing wood products with waxes, danish or tung oils, the process of a "hand rubbed finish" does make a difference I've read about and practiced personally. Applying these finishes by hand rubbing, creates heat, via friction, thus opening up the pores of the wood to received the applied coat. Especially with oils, you want the finish to penetrate the surface for a deep luster and richness. Hand rubbing aids in the process. Actually, when using oils, the initial coat on the surface is to be kept moist for several minutes to allow for penetration before wiping it off. Several coats are applied with each one adding more luster by building upon the previous one. It's just about fool proof to apply.

Thinking about it, varnishes, waxes and oils (the natural finishes) vs. plastics (urethanes) kind of parallels waxes vs. sealants in the auto finishes. The pollies give universal longer lasting protection while the waxes emit a warmth and richness that some prefer.

Sorry for rambling, but it's the other passion of mine.

I don't see the advantage using the hand technique to apply a product to any painted or plasticized surface. Makes for an entertaining video though.

Be well people......elliot

[Mike Phillips]

In contrast,

When finishing wood products with waxes, danish or tung oils,

Interesting post there Elliot...


I'm not a wood guy but from what I do know, aren't most traditional waxes for the wood industry "natural" waxes? I've owned some older wood waxes and they always had a strong scent of Stoddard Solvent of something similar, Naptha perhaps. I'm not sure I would want my hand skin soaking in either one of these for a career.

I have used automotive parts cleaning tanks for years when I was younger with and without wearing protective rubber gloves so I know first hand how Stoddard solvent can dry out your skin, who knows what kind of long term damage I exposed myself to by not wearing gloves each time I cleaned a greasy, grimy car part.

Danish oil is made from either China Tung Nuts or Linseed Oil and I believe Linseed oil actually comes from Flax Seeds.

Both are "seed oils" and probably at least in their natural form, not dangerous to soak your hands in for the hours a person would spend saturating their skin in them as they rub out a piece of wood furniture.

When people talk about hand rubbed lacquer, a person did not use their bare hands to rub out the lacquer but some type of cloth plus a compound or polish and this could be after sanding or without sanding.

But the idea of hand rubbed lacquer invokes the idea of some guy rubbing lacquer paint with his hands, I guess bare hands but I would have never done it that way back in the 1920's and 1930's, I would have still cut up a terry cloth towel and formed a "pad" out of it and then let the nap of the terry cloth take the brunt of the rubbing over he paint.


Good discussion....

[michelliot]

Why thank you Michael,

I've read that Butcher's wax made from bee's wax and the more refined waxes for highly delicate antiques are derived from paraffin. So, I guess, most waxes are natural based and cut with a solvent to make them more applicable.
Linseed oil does comes from the flax seeds and yes, I'm in total agreement that hand rubbing a lacquer finish for any length of time could be quite detrimental to one's health. Besides what it's composed of, just the aroma alone is enough to say "hands off."

Enjoy the day..........elliot