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  1. #1
    Junior Member craigv's Avatar
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    Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    I am going to use the Pinnacle jeweling Wax on my garaged classic car. All the necessary decon and polishing steps will be completed prior to using the jeweling wax. My question is which pad do you recommend that I use to get the desired results?

  2. #2
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    Normally you would use a foam “polishing” pad.

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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  3. #3
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
    Mike Phillips Facebook Page
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  4. #4
    Junior Member craigv's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    It's a 1957 Chevy Belair. "Matador Red" (orangeish red) It is 2 stage paint. I will have the swirls removed. It just want to take the finish as far as possible in the shine department. I have an orange Griots polish pad. I have a yellow Griots Boss polishing pad. I have a white Lake Country polishing pad. At least 6 pads per type to "work clean". I did a test spot and found the paint to be hard.

  5. #5
    Senior Member FUNX650's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    •I’ll suggest the Green Polishing/AIO
    Foam Pad(s) from Lake Country’s CCS
    Smart Pads line-up.

    •Note:
    -It’s the pad that Autogeek included as
    part of their PR campaign for the initial
    roll-out Pinnacle’s AIO Jewling Wax.
    -Does a fantastic job!


    Bob
    "Be wary of the man who urges an action in which he himself incurs no risk."
    ~Joaquin de Setanti

  6. #6
    Junior Member craigv's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    Thanks for the suggestion Bob.

  7. #7
    Senior Member acuRAS82's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    Mike,
    correct me if I’m wrong, but if all polishing steps will be done by the OP prior (if the OP decides to go the below route and finishes down to near perfection during his normal polishing), would application of jeweling wax with a gold jeweling pad or CarPro gloss pad provide some extra dazzling shine/gloss to the final look?

    Obviously this would provide no correction, but perhaps does something special (smoothness/gloss) to the final look of the paint? I’ve always wondered “when is the right time to use these jeweling pads?” It would seem that the OP has the car and desire for max shine to warrant this extra step?

    Please advise, for my own knowledge, and more importantly to give the OP an extra option if it is a sensible one. Thank you!!!

  8. #8
    Senior Member FUNX650's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    Quote Originally Posted by acuRAS82 View Post
    Mike,
    correct me if I’m wrong, but if all polishing steps will be done by the OP prior (if the OP decides to go the below route and finishes down to near perfection during his normal polishing), would application of jeweling wax with a gold jeweling pad or CarPro gloss pad provide some extra dazzling shine/gloss to the final look?

    Obviously this would provide no correction, but perhaps does something special (smoothness/gloss) to the final look of the paint? I’ve always wondered “when is the right time to use these jeweling pads?” It would seem that the OP has the car and desire for max shine to warrant this extra step?

    Please advise, for my own knowledge, and more importantly to give the OP an extra option if it is a sensible one. Thank you!!!
    •I’m not Mike, but IMO:
    -Since the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax is an AIO,
    it contains a certain amount/type of abrasives
    that’ll need a Polishing/AIO pad to fully put
    these abrasives “through the mill”, so to say.

    -That’s something that a Gold/Gloss-ing Jeweling
    pad (and their much smoother/softer surface areas)
    may have a difficult time accomplishing.

    [Not saying it can’t be done, but: time is money;
    (over)heat-ing is an enemy; and CCs are thin.]



    Bob
    "Be wary of the man who urges an action in which he himself incurs no risk."
    ~Joaquin de Setanti

  9. Thanks acuRAS82 thanked for this post
  10. #9
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    Quote Originally Posted by craigv View Post

    It's a 1957 Chevy Belair. "Matador Red" (orangeish red) It is 2 stage paint.
    Very cool car. We've had dozens of Shoebox Chevys go through our detailing classes here at Autogeek over the last 10 years I've been here. I like them for classes because they have a lot of LARGE FLAT panels and this makes for a PERFECT learning canvas for first-time machine users.


    We had a 1957 red Bel Air in our recent September class

    BUSTING AT THE SEAMS! NEW RECORD FOR CARS IN THE GARAGE!





    And before that a red 1957 Bel Air Hardtop that belonged to my very good friend who recently passed away, Earl Dempsey. We affectionately knew him as Earl the Plumber.


    Detailing Class - FLEX XFE7-15mm Free Spinning Orbital Polisher




    Last summer we had a red 1957 Chevy, don't remember if it was a Bel Air or not but I could find out by looking at more pictures from that day.

    Pictures & Comments - 2018 New Jersey Roadshow Detailing Class




    David Emmel

    Here's David, he let us use his beautriful 1957 Chevy (in the background), for one of our training cars. David came in from Weehawken, New Jersey. I met David at SEMA last year when he came by the Autogeek booth to ask about his car and our detailing classes. It was great to see David follow-through from our conversation and get signed-up for and take both days of the New Jersey Roadshow Class.

    Thank you David for your trust!





    Before that was a sweet 1955 red Bel Air and a black 1955 210 and also a blue and white 1956 Bel Air Convertible, and these were all in a single class!


    Pictures & Comments: May 2015 Detailing Boot Camp Class!










    A huge thank you to everyone for all your focused attention throughout the 3-day class.


    So yeah.... we get a lot of cool showbox Chevys like yours here at Autogeek and they are always fun to work on. Some are even a tick on the "different" side.

    New Product Testing - Monster 4x4 1957 Chevy Bel Air











    Quote Originally Posted by craigv View Post

    I will have the swirls removed.

    It just want to take the finish as far as possible in the shine department.
    Just to make sure I'm reading the above correct? Do you mean you're going to have someone do the first step of removing the swirls and then you'll take over?



    Quote Originally Posted by craigv View Post

    I have an orange Griots polish pad.
    I have a yellow Griots Boss polishing pad.
    I have a white Lake Country polishing pad.

    At least 6 pads per type to "work clean".
    That's a pretty good selection for taking the finish as far as possible in the shine department and the Jeweling Wax will help you to do that.

    If you FEEL the Griot's orange BOSS pad and compare to the FEEL of the Lake Country white foam polishing pad, you'll see they feel about the same. I've used Griot's BOSS orange light cutting pads as "polishing" pads as they are not that sharp for a cutting pad.

    See the number of pads stacked up in the first picture of this review? (I try to show all the pads via a picture for all my projects to show people how many pads it takes to properly buff out a car)

    Review: BLACKFIRE One-Step Cleaner/Wax by Mike Phillips




    Then see what I wrote in post #119 in answer to questions asked in post #117 here,

    Questions and answers in posts #117 and reply #119





    Quote Originally Posted by craigv View Post

    I did a test spot and found the paint to be hard.

    The thing about doing a Test Spot and being NEW to machine polishing is that you can make a mistake diagnosing the results simply due to a lack of experience buffing out a LOT of cars. This is also the info I share in my how-to book,

    The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine


    On pages 7 and 8 I have a section on Hard Paint vs Soft Paint and go into detail about how you discover what you are working on via the Test Spot and what it says it you need experience otherwise you can misdiagnose the results.


    Here's screenshots from that section of the book. I'm sharing this because I don't want anyone to take what I'm saying the wrong way and I'm doing this by showing that I believe in what I'm saying so strongly that I did in fact share this in my how-to book in an effort to help educate people that judging hard vs soft car paint takes experience plus technique and both come from buffing out a LOT of cars. Usually over years.


    Here's page 8 and 9 of the book, the section on hard paint vs soft paint starts on page 7 though.




    Here's sections of what I wrote taken with my phone and then uploaded to the gallery here on this forum.











    So it's very possible that the paint on your 1957 Bel Air is in fact hard but it's also possible that it's not.

    To help with this area of paint evaluation, YEARS ago I wrote this article. Take a moment to click the link and read through the 6 most common problems and then the 6 remedies and see if you're making any of the common mistakes.


    DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide


    Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions...


    800-869-3011 x206



    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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  11. #10
    Junior Member craigv's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    Mike and all the other posters.......I appreciate your responses.

    Yea I'm a weekend warrior. Love to keep my vehicles as nice as possible. I detailed cars when I got out of college in the early 80's. Nobody wanted to hire a fresh graduate during the recession so I made ends meat detailing cars. Used a rotary and wool pads. Boy has detailing come a long way since then!

    I have been using a DA polisher for the last 10 years. The results were adequate but I really didn't pay attention to the details and the technique till I join the forum and started learning from the experts. I can officially say I have a detailing sickness. In addition to the original Porter Cable DA which I have converted into my 3 inch polisher......I have acquired a Griots 15mm BOSS polisher and a Flex XFE7-15 "The Finisher". Not to mention all of the products bought from Auto Geek....Griots....Sonax etc etc.

    Mike....to answer your inquiry, I will do all of the correction on the car. I am a DIY so I can put hours into making the paint it's best. The Belair is a new car for me so I am evaluating the paint and want to develop a process for it right from the beginning. All my other vehicles are daily drivers so the attention to "Show Car" shine is not a priority.

    On the subject of the test spot.....I started with the least aggressive method and then evaluated the result. The combination used did not completely correct the paint so I increased the pad and product cut and conducted another test IN A DIFFERENT SPOT (wink). Better results but still not 100% corrected. Is this indicating "hard paint"? That's what I am thinking.

    Again.....thanks for taking the time to respond guys. I'm soaking it all in.

    Mike.....I missed your class last year at The Indianapolis Motor Speedway. Hopefully you are coming back at some point in the future so I can take the class.

    Craig

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