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  1. #11
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    Quote Originally Posted by craigv View Post

    Mike and all the other posters.......I appreciate your responses.

    Yea I'm a weekend warrior. Love to keep my vehicles as nice as possible. I detailed cars when I got out of college in the early 80's. Nobody wanted to hire a fresh graduate during the recession so I made ends meat detailing cars. Used a rotary and wool pads. Boy has detailing come a long way since then!
    I'd say many of us started the same way, that is wool pad on a rotary. Back in the old days, that's all that we had or all that was easily available.

    A local tool rental shop in my home town called, Snell Tool Rental, rented out an old rotary buffer with a wool pad and some kind of Wonder Polish for about $15.00 for an entire weekend. The wool pad on that buffer looked like it had seen hundreds of cars over the years including my 1974 Triumph Spitfire that I painted white with Pearl Blue.



    Quote Originally Posted by craigv View Post

    I have been using a DA polisher for the last 10 years. The results were adequate but I really didn't pay attention to the details and the technique till I join the forum and started learning from the experts. I can officially say I have a detailing sickness. In addition to the original Porter Cable DA which I have converted into my 3 inch polisher......I have acquired a Griots 15mm BOSS polisher and a Flex XFE7-15 "The Finisher". Not to mention all of the products bought from Auto Geek....Griots....Sonax etc etc.
    Yep - you're definitely one of us.


    Quote Originally Posted by craigv View Post

    Mike....to answer your inquiry, I will do all of the correction on the car. I am a DIY so I can put hours into making the paint it's best. The Belair is a new car for me so I am evaluating the paint and want to develop a process for it right from the beginning. All my other vehicles are daily drivers so the attention to "Show Car" shine is not a priority.
    Copy that, just wasn't sure from how you worded the sentence. I have met people and worked for guys that are happy to let me do the hard part, (the correction), and then after the detail job they'll take over down the road.



    Quote Originally Posted by craigv View Post

    On the subject of the test spot.....I started with the least aggressive method and then evaluated the result. The combination used did not completely correct the paint so I increased the pad and product cut and conducted another test IN A DIFFERENT SPOT (wink). Better results but still not 100% corrected. Is this indicating "hard paint"? That's what I am thinking.

    Could be. The key is technique and there's different technique for the different tools you listed that you own.

    Basic technique for correction work would be,

    High speed on your orbital
    Medium to heavy downward pressure - (long stroke is usually less downward pressure)
    Use the right pad
    Use enough product - I'm NOT a pea sized drop guy
    Make at least 8 section passes
    Don't tackle 2' x 2' size areas - this is too large for any free spinning tool. With the FLEX 3401 you can go this big




    Quote Originally Posted by craigv View Post

    Mike.....I missed your class last year at The Indianapolis Motor Speedway. Hopefully you are coming back at some point in the future so I can take the class.

    Craig

    Working on locations today, tomorrow and next week. Compared to Stuart, Florida, for most people we should be in driving distance.


    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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  2. #12
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    Here's an example of a guy that had the right tools, the right pads etc. but did not use the right technique


    DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide



    My class went on to fix his car so now he just has to maintain it.


    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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  3. #13
    Senior Member acuRAS82's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    Quote Originally Posted by FUNX650 View Post
    •I’m not Mike, but IMO:
    -Since the Pinnacle Jeweling Wax is an AIO,
    it contains a certain amount/type of abrasives
    that’ll need a Polishing/AIO pad to fully put
    these abrasives “through the mill”, so to say.

    -That’s something that a Gold/Gloss-ing Jeweling
    pad (and their much smoother/softer surface areas)
    may have a difficult time accomplishing.

    [Not saying it can’t be done, but: time is money;
    (over)heat-ing is an enemy; and CCs are thin.]
    Thanks Bob. Makes sense. I’m just trying to figure out what these super soft pads are designed for. Gloss pads supposedly work really well with Essence and I figured Pinnacle Jewelibg Wax is a similar fine abrasive... but I do agree that using these pads is defeating part of the abrasive purpose of the AIO

  4. #14
    Junior Member craigv's Avatar
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    Re: Pinnacle Jeweling Wax

    *Update* I’m still evaluating the paint on the Belair. I won’t be correcting the paint till spring so I have time to dial in the process. I performed another test spot. The first pass I used the FLEX XFE 7-15 and a Lake Country Thin Pro Orange pad coupled with Griots “Correcting Creme”. Mike mentioned the LC orange pad has sharp cutting ability. I made 6 passes. The results show some light marks remaining.

    Next up was the same machine with a Griots finishing Microfiber pad. I used the same correcting cream and made 6 passes. The result was better with very light marks remaining.

    Am I splitting hairs? Or....should I just move to a finishing polish which might take out the last light defects? I can still go up to the GG Fast Correcting Creme and Microfiber.

    It’s my personal car so whatever it takes. Just want to do it right and not “Work Backwards”

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