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Re: How to use the Flex 3401 to remove swirls & water spots
What I always appreciate is the passion the people that attend our classes bring to the table when working on cars like this.
Sure they work hard on the 2012 Chevy Traverse and the 2003 Dodge Ram Truck we also had at this class but "hey" I think guys like working on cars like this classic Chevy more than mundane daily drivers.
The techniques and head knowledge you learn working on a car like this applies to any car so it's less about the car and more about a way of learning that's fun.
And when the class is having fun I know they're going to remember what they learned.
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Re: How to use the Flex 3401 to remove swirls & water spots
Mike, great results on that Chevy. Why didn't you tape the car? I couldn't help notice in several of your photos some were using improper technique by not draping the power cord over their shoulder.
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Re: How to use the Flex 3401 to remove swirls & water spots
Originally Posted by jsgntulok
Mike, great results on that Chevy.
Why didn't you tape the car?
Great question. We actually don't tape classics with chrome or stainless steel trim because we buff it out just like the paint.
Chrome and stainless steel trim become dull, stained and in the case of stainless steel, it oxidizes. So when doing the first step, (the correction step), after buffing out the paint I practice and teach to take the same pad and product you're already using and run your buffer down the trim, including the bumpers. It only takes a few seconds and dramatically "brightens" all the brightwork.
Here's another classic car I detailed myself where I shared this tip/technique about 3 years ago.
See Step 7
How to use a one-step cleaner/wax to maximize profits
That's one of the reasons I prefer to work on muscle cars, street rods, classics and antiques.
NO PLASTIC TRIM TO TAPE OFF
Now this car was part of my last 3-day detailing boot camp class and at all my classes I have both old and new cars so we do go over how to detail modern cars with plastic exterior trim and how to properly tape-off a car.
Originally Posted by jsgntulok
I couldn't help notice in several of your photos some were using improper technique by not draping the power cord over their shoulder.
No problem.... that's what our classes are about.... learning.
Most people don't pick up perfect technique the first time they buff out a car. Some might but I've been teaching detailing classes since 1987. I've probably had more people go through my classes than any other class taught anywhere and I know from watching people that most don't pick up perfect technique their first time using machine to polish.
For example, Same attended my September 2014 class and it was her first time machine polishing. She was a fast learner, always had the cord over her shoulder when buffing out large horizontal panels.
We have a lot of people that are always brand new to working by machine. So not only do they have to learn everything there is about using the tool and avoiding mistakes but they also have to learn all the little things like placing the cord over your shoulder when buffing on horizontal panels like the roof, hood and trunk lid.
It's less important when doing vertical panels as the cord typically comes out the back of the tool and falls to the floor out of the way.
By the way, this 1956 Dodge Royal Lancer continues to win awards for best car, best paint, etc. and most of the people at our class that buffed it out were all newbies.
Pictures & Comments: Sept 2014 Detail Boot Camp Class
Good questions, thank you for asking them....
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