Help Painting A Car

**chaoscontrol** · 03-09-2007, 03:47 PM

Hello, I am looking for some information on th bst way to paint a car inside a garage. The drivers side of it was done by my friend a few months back and after seeing how it looked, reading a few things online, and how paint came off while I was cleaning it I know he did a few things wrong. He never filled in the dents and deep scratches, he used newspaper, got clear coat all over the doors groves and back trunk, and has dust particals dried in it. I am going to redo that side and a fw more pannels and was hopping for some advise on how to make it look as good as possible. There is no rust on it at all and its a 98 civic if that helps. Any advise would be very helpful thanks.

**67Customs** · 03-09-2007, 05:05 PM

I'm going to be brutally honest...

If you have to get online to ask for advice on how to paint, you aren't ready. Especially if you are going to do it in your garage. You are just going to get more dust particals in the new paint. You really need a booth to get quality work.

I know one has to start somewhere, but pinting your frinds Honda in your garage isn't the place to start. I started by painting parts. Learning the trade. Then I moved up to painting cars. There is a LOT more to it than just renting a gun, buying some paint and tapeing it off. You really need to find someone that actually does paint cars and get them to let you watch. Like an apprentice.

Now, if you are DEAD set on trying, you need the following DIY, easy to get basics...

A clean garage
3M painters plastic to tape off parts of the car
3M painters tape (blue or green)
Gravity fed LPHV air gun
5gal+ air compressor
air pressure regulator
sandpaper (320 grit...1000grit and 1200grit)
water
color code of the car
base color of your choice
thinner
clear of your choice
(unless the car is a single stage paint. If it is an early Honda, the chances are good that it is. Then you need to get some Single Stage Paint.)
Clear hardener
cone filters
paint mixers
body filler
sanding block
patience

Now, you are going to want to wet down the floor of the garage to keep the dust down.
Tape up the parts of the car that you don't want to get sprayed.
Sand with 320.
Use the body filler to fill in the low spots.
sand with 320
sand with 1000
wetsand with 1000
westsand with 1200
wipe dry.
wipe with water and clean cloth.
wipe dry
wipe with water and clean cloth
wipe dry.
Hook up the air compressor (perferable outside and let it build air)
mix the color with the thinner to manufacturers recomendations and pour though filter into gun.
put compressor on 30PSI.
spray a dry (light) coat of color.
(dry time: for about 20 min depending on temp)
spray wet (heavy) coat of color
dry time
You just want enough color to cover the area. the true paint uniformness and depth comes from the clear
spray dry coat of clear
dry time
spray wet cot of clear
dry time
spray one more wet coat of clear
dry time

take paint off and completely dry over night.

There is more to it, but this will get some paint on the car in a decent way.

Good luck.

**Stittville Ed** · 03-09-2007, 05:10 PM

PATIENCE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is number 1 in paint and body work for sure

**Craig** · 03-10-2007, 01:39 AM

Don't forget the money it takes. I just bought a "Sharpe Razor" LVLP spray gun, $380.00. That isn't a high price gun either. Price a Sata spray gun, $500.00-600.00

, now think about a compressor. At least 600.00 to get by on. By the time you buy everything you could have paid to get it painted, without all the work. I'm guessing @ $1500.00 - 2000.00 to buy what you need, maybe more. Check out the prices of a gal. of paint.

**orngez** · 03-10-2007, 05:37 AM

like most diy stuff the upfront cost is going to run you about the same as getting in professionally done...thats how they come up with their prices...just barely higher than what it would cost you to do it yourself...so you make the debate

the returns are being able to do it multiple times after that for just the cost of materials...just like car detailing...buy a PC or rotary is close to the cost of a pro to do it...but after the initial cost and maybe even doing it for friends or customers there is a return on your investment...

**Stittville Ed** · 03-10-2007, 07:46 AM

I paid $36 for a 1/2 pint of GM red base last summer, I'm sure it's a little more now.

**Craig** · 03-10-2007, 09:58 AM

You got it. Now buy a gallon, sealer, primer, clear, hardener, reducer. Whats that, you have a mixed quart left over. Pot lift of 2-4 hours, trash. Check out HOK paint, now thats big money. Awesome paint, awesome price. Like everything else, you get what you pay for.

**ltoman** · 03-10-2007, 12:08 PM

My husband did it. Here is what we learned: make sure it is very well sanded before you begin. If not, the old paint will eventually flake, even if you think you got it good enough, and take the new paint with it.

We painted half of my son's car and we are still having issues.

In addition, you want to rent a booth - dust in the air inevitably lands on the car and you will notice that; it's not pretty. NEVER do it in the yard!!!
. You want to wear a mask and have plenty of air circulation. If some drips, prepare to wetsand.
You can not clay or pc the dest off, but you can fix overspray nicely with it.
Make sure you keep your clearcoat even.
We did this like 3 months ago, so ......
Our lessons are being learned the hard way!!

Lauren

**koibybrian** · 03-10-2007, 04:31 PM

Okay. I have painted a couple cars okay for intened purpose. Well what I would say if you are looking at fender, hood or whatever detachable body peice. I would go to salvage yard. So if it is alike within certin year range body panels paint will match.I know might seem crazy, however manufactures use no solvants. So if it is a fender hood truck lid etc. Might be your best option. Forgo all the solvant paint reducer, hardner. etc.