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Thread: Menzerna Chart

  1. #11
    Senior Member supercharged's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greg'sgoat
    From what I have been reading (somone correct me if I am wrong) but the ceramic polish is almost too much for regular clear. Menzerna makes non ceramic clear polish, but the 106ff is more for the European cars.
    European, and some domestic, like Corvette where clear is very hard.
    2007 Infiniti G35 dark grey (daily driver)
    2009 BMW E70 X5 4.8i jet black (garage queen)
    2013 BMW F25 X3 2.8 jet black (wife's car)

  2. #12
    Senior Member 2KLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greg'sgoat
    From what I have been reading (somone correct me if I am wrong) but the ceramic polish is almost too much for regular clear. Menzerna makes non ceramic clear polish, but the 106ff is more for the European cars.
    That interesting because I have been reading the oposite. I've read a few times that 106FF will finish really well on non-ceramic clears. I'm starting to get the impression that its a little bit pad dependent. A light cutting pad will do a lot of correction or use a polishing pad to do minor correction. You see what I'm trying to find out is just how agressive this polish is, specifically on regular clears. I'm kind of hoping that its versitile enough that I can use just one polish with different pads to do whatever correction I need done. I guess I'll keep reading up on it but I'm hoping to take advantage of AG's weekend sale.

  3. #13
    Senior Member supercharged's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2KLS1
    Will nano polish (106FF) do any correction with a polishing pad ( say LC green or white) on a non-ceramic clear? If so how much?
    I would not used it on Toyota/Lexus vehicles, as their clear coat is very soft. Some hard domestic clearcoats (like Vete's) is what you wanna use it for. It's kinda pricey. Work it in with a white pad, and you will get LSP ready finish with no marring even on black.
    2007 Infiniti G35 dark grey (daily driver)
    2009 BMW E70 X5 4.8i jet black (garage queen)
    2013 BMW F25 X3 2.8 jet black (wife's car)

  4. #14
    Senior Member Jimmie's Avatar
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    Lauren, the higher the number with sandpaper the finer/smaller the cut/scratches it leaves. When you hear guys talking about wet sanding auto paint they're using these finer grits. The finest I've found OTC is 2000 grit. Body shops will be supplied with even finer grits 2500; 3000; etc. Sand paper is designed to work in progression. Use 1000 grit; then 1500 grit takes out that deep of scratch; then 2000; then 2500; etc. Polishes can take these fine grit sand paper scratches out of the paint just like removing a swirl mark. Hope this was a start on explaining it and didn't add to any confusion.

    Scott, really appreciate your efforts on the "Quick Reference".
    Last edited by Jimmie; 05-23-2007 at 10:42 PM.

  5. #15
    Senior Member 2KLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supercharged
    I would not used it on Toyota/Lexus vehicles, as their clear coat is very soft. Some hard domestic clearcoats (like Vete's) is what you wanna use it for. It's kinda pricey. Work it in with a white pad, and you will get LSP ready finish with no marring even on black.
    Well I don't have a vette but it is a GM clear, Pontiac to be exact (see avatar). Do you know how aggressive Micro Polish PO87 is? It's a little hard to tell but looking at the labels it seems as though it's a little more aggressive than Final Polish.

  6. #16
    Senior Member ltoman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie
    Lauren, the higher the number with sandpaper the finer/smaller the cut/scratches it leaves. When you hear guys talking about wet sanding auto paint they're using these finer grits. The finest I've found OTC is 2000 grit. Body shops will be supplied with even finer grits 2500; 3000; etc. Sand paper is designed to work in progression. Use 1000 grit; then 1500 grit takes out that deep of scratch; then 2000; then 2500; etc. Polishes can take these fine grit sand paper scratches out of the paint just like removing a swirl mark. Hope this was a start on explaining it and didn't add to any confusion.

    Scott, really appreciate your efforts on the "Quick Reference".
    Thanks Jimmie - that helps! :-)
    Love your signature picture! he is a cutie.
    I still have a ways to go in understanding how these work and all.....here we go again. I feel like when I just started!!!

    Lauren - Jimmie rocks
    ~Lulu~


  7. #17
    Powergloss Compound (S34A) cut 5.0 gloss 1.5
    Super Intensive Polish (PO 83Q) cut 3.5 gloss 3.0
    Intensive Polish (PO 91E) cut 3.5 gloss 3.0
    Final Polish (PO 85U) cut 3.0 gloss 4.0
    Micro Polish (PO 87MC) cut 1.5 gloss 4.0
    Nano Polish (PO 106) cut 2.5 gloss 5.0

  8. #18
    In time out P1et's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2KLS1
    Well I don't have a vette but it is a GM clear, Pontiac to be exact (see avatar). Do you know how aggressive Micro Polish PO87 is? It's a little hard to tell but looking at the labels it seems as though it's a little more aggressive than Final Polish.
    I did quite a bit of research before investing in my PO85RD and read many topics on how the line of ceramiclear Menzerna polishes works just fine on any other paint.

    You have absolutely no worries.

  9. #19
    Senior Member ScottB's Avatar
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    I think the Ceramiclear polishes have a little more bite intially but break down quickly and into the perfect finishing polish. In most cases you dont need to go to any pad more than medium grade, and allow the polish to do all the work. When used properly they can replace the work of two polishes (SSR 2.5 and 1.0) for example.


    Scott

  10. #20
    Senior Member trlblazer3's Avatar
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    How PC friendly are these polishes? Do they break down nicely or take a while much like the Optimum line. I love the Optimum line, especially OC, but it just seems to take forever and a day to break down.

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