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  1. #11
    Senior Member Calendyr's Avatar
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    Re: Question regarding 3 in 1 products

    Quote Originally Posted by fabiolas4 View Post
    I'm glad to see there's someone out there who has tried this. I might go forth and buy a test panel to see how this goes.
    Here's the video I watched that influenced my question and idea about mixing supplies together.
    YouTube
    That video reminded me to try D166 on microfiber. I did 2 polishing jobs this week with D166 and I completelly forgot. I normally use them either on orange polishing pads or Blue cutting pads but from the results I saw on Jimbo's videos this winter, I really wanted to give microfiber cutting pads a try. He is getting a lot of correction done and the products finish beautiful.

  2. #12
    Senior Member dlc95's Avatar
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    Re: Question regarding 3 in 1 products

    The old sears craftsman 10" Traditional Orbital Buffers came with a "Polish / Glaze", and a "Wax". They suggested combining the two on the same pad to save time.

    They may have formulated those products to be used in that manner...

    I remember watching my ex fiance's older sister do that to her car back when I was on a detailing sabbatical (2003
    -ish?).

    When I did her mom's car I brought over my rotary, M02, M09, and M26, and a bunch of Megs / Edge pads. It never occurred to me that I should put all those products on the same pad and expect a satisfactory result.

  3. #13
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    Re: Question regarding 3 in 1 products

    Quote Originally Posted by dlc95 View Post
    The old sears craftsman 10" Traditional Orbital Buffers came with a "Polish / Glaze", and a "Wax". They suggested combining the two on the same pad to save time.

    They may have formulated those products to be used in that manner...

    I remember watching my ex fiance's older sister do that to her car back when I was on a detailing sabbatical (2003
    -ish?).

    When I did her mom's car I brought over my rotary, M02, M09, and M26, and a bunch of Megs / Edge pads. It never occurred to me that I should put all those products on the same pad and expect a satisfactory result.
    And you were satisfied with the result with the combination?

  4. #14
    Senior Member dlc95's Avatar
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    Re: Question regarding 3 in 1 products

    Quote Originally Posted by fabiolas4 View Post
    And you were satisfied with the result with the combination?
    My combination? At the time I was. It wouldn't compare to what I like now. I recently used M09 and it didn't finish as nice as the modern polishes. M02 doesn't cut or finish as well as the modern medium polishes either. I still like M26 though.

    Her car looked better than it did before she worked on it.

  5. #15
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    Re: Question regarding 3 in 1 products

    D166 has an underwhelming finish on soft black paint for being an AIO. Sure as heck nice to work with, though. I think it’ll do great on harder paint.


    Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
    '03 Corvette Z06

  6. #16
    Senior Member Calendyr's Avatar
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    Re: Question regarding 3 in 1 products

    Quote Originally Posted by WRAPT C5Z06 View Post
    D166 has an underwhelming finish on soft black paint for being an AIO. Sure as heck nice to work with, though. I think it’ll do great on harder paint.


    Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
    It has a lot of cut, maybe that is what is causing the issue on soft paint. Have you tried a different pad? Larry did a video recently suggesting to use harder pads when dealing with soft paint.

  7. #17
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    Re: Question regarding 3 in 1 products

    Same thing like when I tried the Turtlewax Blackbox just for haha's. I mixed the two and I found that I had the same results that I did when I used each bottle separately but cut my time in half by not having to go around the car a 2nd time. That's why I figured I'd ask to see what you all thought. I also prefer harder pads, I like the Meguiars drill adapter that I use with every car that i do. Been using that since it first came out and excellent results every time.

  8. #18
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Question regarding 3 in 1 products

    Quote Originally Posted by Calendyr View Post

    Larry did a video recently suggesting to use harder pads when dealing with soft paint.


    I've buffed out a LOT of cars in my life and when dealing with soft paint, hard or aggressive pads, I'm guessing we're talking about "cutting" pads, leave pad haze in the paint.

    That is the aggressiveness of the pad itself will cause micro-marring.


    Pad Haze
    I use the term PAD HAZE to describe and differentiate the micro-marring caused by the pad alone as compared to micro-marring caused by the abrasive technology.


    The last 4 cars I detailed all had hard paint and I could easily finish out with a foam polishing pad. Didn't need to switch to a foam "finishing" pad. I cut the 1969 Hemi car with an orange LC Force Hybrid pad and then polished with a white LC foam Force Hybrid pad.


    Recently I detailed an all original 1976 black Porsche with the original, basecoat/clearcoat paint. The paint was SO SOFT - I CUT it with a black foam finishing pad.

    That's right. I CUT or corrected the paint using a soft foam finishing pad.


    I tested foam "polishing" pads and the pad alone micro-marred the paint.


    Just sharing what I've seen when dealing with soft paints.

    Here's the car and the pads, tools and products I used. Just to note, most guys probably don't know this but early basecoat/clearcoat paints were very soft. I know this because I was working as a Trainer for Meguiar's, calling on bodyshops when the industry was changing over from single stage, solvent-evaporation enamels to the (at the time) new basecoat/clearcoat technology. This is experience I am so thankful for now days. Gives me an edge when writing, talking or teaching.


    1976 Porsche - Original basecoat/clearcoat paint

    I tested Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover (medium cut polish), with a foam polishing pad and it removed the swirls and scratches but left the paint with micro-marring. I then tested the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, (fine cut polish), with a foam polishing pad and this removed the swirls and scratches but also left micro-marring. I then tested the Finishing Glaze with the Lake Country HDO and SDO black foam finishing pads and this combo REMOVED the swirls and scratches and finished out perfect. Then I carefully chemically stripped the paint and sealed with PBL Surface Coating.




    Tools I used...




    Lake Country black foam finishing pads








    End results








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  10. #19
    Senior Member dlc95's Avatar
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    Re: Question regarding 3 in 1 products

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    I've buffed out a LOT of cars in my life and when dealing with soft paint, hard or aggressive pads, I'm guessing we're talking about "cutting" pads, leave pad haze in the paint.

    That is the aggressiveness of the pad itself will cause micro-marring.


    Pad Haze
    I use the term PAD HAZE to describe and differentiate the micro-marring caused by the pad alone as compared to micro-marring caused by the abrasive technology.


    The last 4 cars I detailed all had hard paint and I could easily finish out with a foam polishing pad. Didn't need to switch to a foam "finishing" pad. I cut the 1969 Hemi car with an orange LC Force Hybrid pad and then polished with a white LC foam Force Hybrid pad.


    Recently I detailed an all original 1976 black Porsche with the original, basecoat/clearcoat paint. The paint was SO SOFT - I CUT it with a black foam finishing pad.

    That's right. I CUT or corrected the paint using a soft foam finishing pad.


    I tested foam "polishing" pads and the pad alone micro-marred the paint.


    Just sharing what I've seen when dealing with soft paints.

    Here's the car and the pads, tools and products I used. Just to note, most guys probably don't know this but early basecoat/clearcoat paints were very soft. I know this because I was working as a Trainer for Meguiar's, calling on bodyshops when the industry was changing over from single stage, solvent-evaporation enamels to the (at the time) new basecoat/clearcoat technology. This is experience I am so thankful for now days. Gives me an edge when writing, talking or teaching.


    1976 Porsche - Original basecoat/clearcoat paint

    I tested Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover (medium cut polish), with a foam polishing pad and it removed the swirls and scratches but left the paint with micro-marring. I then tested the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, (fine cut polish), with a foam polishing pad and this removed the swirls and scratches but also left micro-marring. I then tested the Finishing Glaze with the Lake Country HDO and SDO black foam finishing pads and this combo REMOVED the swirls and scratches and finished out perfect. Then I carefully chemically stripped the paint and sealed with PBL Surface Coating.




    Tools I used...




    Lake Country black foam finishing pads








    End results








    Holy Moses the gloss on that Porsche is off the charts... Wow...

    As far as the pads, I believe they were discussing the Rupes yellow and white polishing pad versus the much softer (pre thin disc?) Meguiar's black foam finishing pad on a 21mm tool, and M205 polish.

    The theory was that the combination of the 21mm throw, and black pad would bind and bunch up in areas because the foam was so soft and tall, thus compromising the finish.

    From there they did the water / M205 on the white Rupes finishing pad with some improvement, then finally the Rupes Yellow.

    Kudos to those gentlemen for making it work. They have more patience than I, because in those situations I switch the juice first. I've had a couple situations where M205 just wasn't working no matter what I tried. It was a lot easier (for me) in that moment - to grab a fresh pad, and Menzerna 2500, and get the job done...

  11. #20
    Senior Member Paul A.'s Avatar
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    Re: Question regarding 3 in 1 products

    I will, at times, mix a cocktail of products to elicit more "cut" to effectively 1 step a job. My favorite lately is Menz HCC 400 and HD Speed. I can get a better "finish" and then leave a little LSP behind.

    I am intrigued a bit by your proposal however, if it were me, I would use it on a test panel and fully evaluate what you are seeing, both short term results and long term wear and tear.

    In my opinion, there are chemical engineers that put AIO's together. They then test them well before public release. It is their expertise that I trust. It is that expertise that yields the best combination of each of the AIO elements.

    Having said that, I doubt you'll damage paint by combining a few products that are meant to be worked on paint. I say go for it (on a test panel) and let us know how your experiment went. I do like sometimes thinking outside the box.

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