Review and How-to: McKee's 37 Xtreme Iron Remover

[ScottH]

...will be adding that to my next order. Which reminds me, it's been at least 5 days since my last one. I am slipping! :-)

ScottH

[trojanone1]

Compared to IronX, about how long does a 16 oz bottle last?

[Nappers]

Would this work on Windshields with hard water from sprinklers? I've seen Mothers Windshield polish but wondered about this.....

I'm liking the Mckee's line of products.

Great article Mike.

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Beautiful review Mike.

Thanks for taking the time to jam pack the review full of information and pictures to share with us.


Say what!?

First - McKee's 37 Xtreme Iron Remover is formulated to spray onto dry paint.

That's crazier than a wooden leg with a real foot!!!

Very interesting to see this particular product formulated this way.

[Mike Phillips]

The town I live in has railroad tracks running through the middle of it and you can't avoid rail dust contamination.

Exactly. That's just one forum of air-borne iron contamination.

Every other time or so when I wash my wife's white Mercedes I use an iron remover, in the past Iron X but now I'll be using McKee's.

And knowing I've already performed a major iron removal process when we first bought the car and I first washed it, each time I use an iron remover there's always spots of red bleeding taking place on the car.

So this tells me, here in Stuart, Florida, for where we live and drive, there's always a slow build up of iron contamination.

Next time I wash the car I'll spray on some McKee's Xtreme Iron Remover and take some pictures.

Thanks for creating a product that does not smell worse than rotten eggs.

Nick gets all the credit for this product and his work with the chemist in charge of this project.

Would this work on Windshields with hard water from sprinklers? I've seen Mothers Windshield polish but wondered about this.....

Yes. The active ingredients don't really care what the iron particles are bonded too.

When I use this product I spray it over everything.

I'm liking the Mckee's line of products.

Top notch formulas. Quality ingredients. Joe Consumer prices.

Plus... hard to argue with things like this...


McKee's 37 = Winner BEST PAINT!

Great article Mike.

Thanks bud... long time no see...

[Hantra]

Would this remove Wolfgang Uber Ceramic coating? Still trying to figure out how I'm going to decontaminate that, and still get the longevity. Thanks!

[Mike Phillips]

Would this remove Wolfgang Uber Ceramic coating?

Still trying to figure out how I'm going to decontaminate that, and still get the longevity.

Thanks!

To be honest I don't know.

I don't know if using ANY iron remover will or will not remove ANY coating on the market?

I don't know how a person could know for 100% for sure one way or another? Does anyone know how to tell 100% for sure one way or another or is everyone's opinion just that? An opinion or conjecture?


Here's what I know, ANY car that is a daily driver and ANY car that is parked outside all of the time, that is it never sees a garage for storage, then the paint gets a dirt film build up. Even coated coats unless they are washed very regularly.

How do I know? Because after coating my wife's Mercedes-Benz SLK 350, about 6 months later I machine polished the car using a white polish with a white pad and the pad turned brownish/grey. This of course was after washing it. And I know from experience the brownish/grey color is road grime and airborne dirt that settles on the car and bonds to the coating/paint and doesn't wash off.

So in my mind, while a coating can last for years, if a person wants their car's finish to ALWAYS look its best and the car is NOT a garage queen, that is it is driven and parked outside and thus exposed to the elements and everything in the air, rain and splatter from cars that drive in front of you when it rains, (where road grime comes from), then to maintain a clear, bright finish even a coated car will need to be re-polished and re-coated.

Just what I've see.

This is why previously I used the PBL Diamond Surface Coating on the wife's SLK 350. I could apply it like a spray detailer, which means I could apply it FAST. Periodically, I could machine clean the paint using the PBL Surface Cleansing Polish and then re-apply the coating. With this approach the coating was alwasy present and clean and clear. The features and benefits of the coating were always active. The paint looked glassy.


I don't know and I don't know or trust that anyone else knows (100% for sure), if iron removers remove any brand of coating. So the only perfect solution is to have a method of both cleaning the car and the paint and maintaining the coating. Kind of like the quote,


"Find something you like and use it often"

[BM1024]

To be honest I don't know.

I bit off topic, but the statement above is why so many of us stay at AG & listen to Mike. It's not just he vast knowledge and experience - it's the fact that he is not afraid to admit he doesn't know everything....unlike many other "experts" out there.

Thanks, Mike

[Hantra]

That's a perfect response. Thank you so much Mike. What you said is key. No one really knows. This is all too subjective, and there's no empirical way for me to tell if the coating is still working, or is even still on the paint. I mean, if it gets contaminated, and is less hydrophobic, it's just guesswork, and one should reapply to be safe. And that's what is frustrating me about coatings, versus just a sealant that is not priced per cc, so I don't have to guess. I just throw on some more.

[Hantra]

Along those lines, if I need to decon and use the PBL Surface Cleaning Lotion on Uber, can I then put on PBL coating? If the Uber is still there, will it be okay as another layer on top? Or do I need to polish with some abrasives before switching to PBL coating?

Thank you again.