Foothills of Cackalacka reporting in

[cityjack]

Good morning all,

First time here obviously. I'd love to tell you all some extravagant story on how I am detailing some expensive vette and I need to know all the tricks. Maybe someday, but today, I am in search of a good wax, paste or liquid, that will save my clear coat and protect my black paint of my Mazda 3. Every side except for the hood and roof look really good. Its a 2011.

I have a old gold can of liquid glass. Probably some paste of some sort laying around, and just recently picked up some Griots spray that a friend recommended.

I need some direction please. Most interested in protection from the North Carolina sun.

Thank you all for your help.

Sid

[Mike Phillips]

Welcome to AutogeekOnline!


Just to note - the best way to get actual help is to start a "Dedicated Thread" with a TITLE that tells people what you need help with.

Right now the title of this thread says,

Foothills of Cackalacka reporting in


Nice forum members that readily "welcome" new members that make "introduction" threads like you will >click< on this thread and welcome you. Some might even share detailing information. But to get people that like to >click< on threads and help others to detail cars will look for threads with titles like this,

Need help saving and protecting paint on 11 year old car?


See the differences in mentality? Just suggestions for you, for any forum you ever join and for anyone that ever reads this into the future.

Good morning all,

First time here obviously. I'd love to tell you all some extravagant story on how I am detailing some expensive vette and I need to know all the tricks. Maybe someday, but today, I am in search of a good wax, paste or liquid, that will save my clear coat and protect my black paint of my Mazda 3. Every side except for the hood and roof look really good. Its a 2011.

I have a old gold can of liquid glass. Probably some paste of some sort laying around, and just recently picked up some Griots spray that a friend recommended.

I need some direction please. Most interested in protection from the North Carolina sun.

Thank you all for your help.

Sid

Being that the car is 9+ years old, and sounds like the horizontal surfaces need help. It's these surfaces that the SUN beats down on and also the rain that suffer CLEARCOAT FAILURE first. IF that is the case, then there's nothing you can do to undo the damage. You can try washing, claying and then using a cleaner/wax of some sort to remove any surface oxidation and restore a SMOOTH CLEAN surface. A smooth clean surface will last longer than a dirty, oxidized tectured surface.

The Gold Class won't help and neither will the Griot's spray product.

I'm guessing you're working by hand? If so - get either a bottle of 3D Speed or BLACKFIRE One Step and a microfiber applicator and then using ELBOW GREASE - get after it.



Hope that helps...

[cityjack]

Gotcha Mike, and thank you.
You mention cleaning the surface the best I can. Yes I'm working by hand. Will this 3D speed product be the cleaner/wax you speak of? Will there be an additional step of adding more wax afterwards?

I'm going to try to get a hold of these guys when they open for more info.

Thanks again for your help.

Sid

[Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN]

Welcome to the forum brother! This is an awesome place to learn about detailimg and everyone I've come across here are very nice, and helpful!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app

[Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN]

Here's a link to purchace the 32 oz bottles of 3D Speed and Blackfire One Step. You get a better deal purchacing the larger bottles, but if you feel you only need a smaller quantity or just enough to get through one project maybe the smaller bottles are for you.

3D HD Speed 32 oz.

BLACKFIRE One Step, BLACKFIRE Total Polish & Seal, polish and wax, cleaner wax, car polish

Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app

[Mike Phillips]

Gotcha Mike, and thank you.

No problemo - my intentions are good, they are just meant to help..

You mention cleaning the surface the best I can. Yes I'm working by hand. Will this 3D speed product be the cleaner/wax you speak of?

Yes. I believe it uses a synthetic protection ingredient but I would have to look at a bottle. You can find the info on the AG store.

Point being is it cleans, polishes and protects in one step.

The microfiber applicator will give the product a little more bite to help you "clean" or abrade the surface, which is what you want to do.

Will there be an additional step of adding more wax afterwards?

The Speed and BF One Step are both AIOs - this means All-in-One so "yes" after application the surface is protected.

You could apply a non-cleaning product afterwards for more protections.

[DETAILROOKIE]

Good morning all,

First time here obviously. I'd love to tell you all some extravagant story on how I am detailing some expensive vette and I need to know all the tricks. Maybe someday, but today, I am in search of a good wax, paste or liquid, that will save my clear coat and protect my black paint of my Mazda 3. Every side except for the hood and roof look really good. Its a 2011.

I have a old gold can of liquid glass. Probably some paste of some sort laying around, and just recently picked up some Griots spray that a friend recommended.

I need some direction please. Most interested in protection from the North Carolina sun.

Thank you all for your help.

Sid

Welcome to the forum! I'm located in Raleigh, where are you located?

I typically use FK1000P or Collinite 845 to wax my cars and they work very well. I even used them when I lived in Miami and they both held up.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Autogeekonline mobile app

[Mike Phillips]

I typically use FK1000P or Collinite 845 to wax my cars and they work very well. I even used them when I lived in Miami and they both held up.

Both products have stellar reputations.


And to put things in context,

Will there be an additional step of adding more wax afterwards?

After first somehow cleaning the paint via a compound, polish or a cleaner/wax, (cleaner/wax is an AIO), you could then TOP the results of any of these products with one of the waxes DETAIROOKIE listed. Both of them are NON-CLEANING waxes and this means they should only be used on paint that is either in new or excellent condition or is PRE-CLEANED via one of the products mentioned in the first sentence of this paragraph.

A non-cleaning wax will not remove the oxidation and/or any other defects or impurities like road film on all the paint and specifically the hood, trunk lid and roof.


See my article here,

Road Film - If you drive your car in the rain your car has road film



Road Film

Road film is the oily film splattered all over your car when you drive in the rain.





And here,

Topping - Definition - How to Top also called Topping

[cityjack]

Thank you Jacob for your help.

[cityjack]

Welcome to the forum! I'm located in Raleigh, where are you located?

I typically use FK1000P or Collinite 845 to wax my cars and they work very well. I even used them when I lived in Miami and they both held up.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Autogeekonline mobile app

Hey Detail, I'm over in Hickory but my son lives just a bit from you over in Saxapahaw .

I'm afraid that I have a bit much for a "All in One" solution. Don't know. Unfortunately, with Google and all, I think I've "gone down the rabbit hole". I definitely believe I need a cleaner first. At what point do I say a AIO will nut cut it and I need to claybar?

Mike, I'm headed to read your article now.

Thank you.