Just did mine yesterday. DLUX for LSP.
Before:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f98f002435.jpg
After:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...da66b2397e.jpg
Please excuse the typos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Just did mine yesterday. DLUX for LSP.
Before:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f98f002435.jpg
After:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...da66b2397e.jpg
Please excuse the typos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I tier my HLR as every customer doesn't care to haver perfect, just clear.
My level one is Just a compound /wool, it acts as a test spot to help you decide what really needs done if customer opted for higher service
LC purple foam wool, blue foamed wool, or carpro cool wool will all work.
Scholles S0 compound and drill
Panel prep
Ceramic coating..
If above service results left blotchy/haze areas I'll proceed to 600 dry, 1500wet, compound, panel prep, then wipe on UV coating..
If above prcesst left crazing/crow feet (hazing with micro cracks) I'll start at 320, 500,800 (sometimes 1000)prep, then 2k clear..
Obviously all are at different price points and carry different length warranties.
I just did the headlights on my 1995 Accord wagon. My 16y/o son drives it so I couldn’t let him drive at night with hazy headlights. I used Dlux for the LSP as well. https://youtu.be/JT-t3rhaw4Q
The SiO2 coatings don't last as long as applying a new UV coating like the factory coating. They smell like they are urethane based loaded and with UVA/UVB. There are wipe on ones too. You don't have to spray them on. I apply them after a compounding step that followed what ever sanding was needed. The hazing from compounding seems to be enough for the UV coating to adhere to. I do not use a fine polish to finish to a high gloss.