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  1. #21
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    Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

    Wow, night and day....

  2. #22
    Regular Member Louie_Blu's Avatar
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    Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

    Really nice work Richy, thanks for showing that, I have a similar scratch on a vehicle I need to do this week will definitely try your toothpick/wet sand/polish method

  3. #23
    Super Member richy's Avatar
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    Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

    Quote Originally Posted by dad07 View Post
    Great Job Richy!
    How would you compare the cut of 671 compared to other products you have used?

    I have some on the shelf just havn't had chance to play with it yet.
    Quote Originally Posted by Scarelane View Post
    WOW! That turned out great!

    Thank you kindly. I have only used it twice so far and with a few different pads so I'm only slowly learning the abilities and best methods to use it myself. The surbuff pad was an epiphany moment for me. As far as comparing...I use M105/205 95% of the time now. So, compared to them, it would compare to 205. Maybe even a bit stronger. Again, like most polishes can be, this one is pad dependent too. What this has over 205 of course is that it also contains sealant, so you eliminate another step for a big time savings.

    Quote Originally Posted by rwright View Post
    No kidding, a Surbuf pad. I was going to be mad as heck if the white pad would have worked for you because I tried it on more than one occasion. Car looks excellent by the way.

    And just to note to anyone reading this, DG #671 does NOT contain fillers.
    Thanks Richard. No fillers, but of course it does contain sealant. As far as trying the Surbuff goes...when have you ever known me to think inside the box?? LOL

    Quote Originally Posted by rwisejr View Post
    Fantastic repair richy !!!
    Thank you Ron; I appreciate it.

    Quote Originally Posted by dbbrooks View Post
    Amazing and thank you! Great job! I've always wondered if that could be done and turn out that good! I'm wondering did you damp sand with a machine or block sand by hand?
    Thank you for your kind words. I did the sanding via block by hand. I bought the Megs DA disc adapter thing but I still need to pickup the appropriate sand paper that goes with it. I just don't need a whole bloody box of each one!!

    Quote Originally Posted by toycar18 View Post
    Great work!!!

    Do you every add clearcoat on top of the touch up paint or do you just leave it?

    I assume it would be much easier to skip the clear but is that gonna cause issues down the road?
    Thank you! I just used the touch up they mixed for me. I've been doing it this way for years on my own cars and for others with no problems at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobbyG View Post
    Richy,

    Another outstanding step by step tutorial on how to fix something we've all experienced at least on time in our lives.

    There is little doubt that when the customer saw these results she may want you to have your child!

    Tremendous work Richy!!
    Bobby, thank you Sir! It means a lot coming from you. After the positive response from my last scratch repair thread and the following PM's, I figured this might be a useful tool. Maybe Mike wants to make it a sticky??

    Quote Originally Posted by RTexasF View Post
    In all honesty I had no idea those scratches could be repaired without repainting the entire panel. What a fantastic job and the fact that I learned something from it makes it even sweeter. No doubt the owner is ecstatic over the outcome and extra steps that you took.
    It takes a long time but it does work. They were very pleased which made me proud and happy.

    Quote Originally Posted by IID View Post
    BRAVO Richy,just BRAVO-
    Thanks a bunch Chris. I appreciate your comments!

    Quote Originally Posted by Minja View Post
    Wow, night and day....
    Thanks bud!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Louie_Blu View Post
    Really nice work Richy, thanks for showing that, I have a similar scratch on a vehicle I need to do this week will definitely try your toothpick/wet sand/polish method
    Lou, please PM me and let me know how it works for you. If you have any question, you can PM me or text too. Happy to help.

  4. #24
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    Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

    very nice job!

    tried doing something similar on my gfs car and totally failed

  5. #25
    Super Member timaishu's Avatar
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    Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

    AMAZING!

    Puhhheeeezz let this be stickied.

    If not, its already in my favorites for furture reference!
    Jacob

  6. #26
    Super Member Sunshyne's Avatar
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    Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

    just ordered some Unirgrit, going to pick up some touch up this weekend and I too shall give this a try

    thanks for posting this!!

  7. #27
    Super Member LegacyGT's Avatar
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    Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

    Richy -

    Really nice and informative how-to article, this one is going into my 'reference' folder. I think you may be getting me inspired to re-do a key mark touch up job on my own car
    Detail Fest 2012 Face Book Page
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  8. #28
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

    Nice how-to and write-up Richy,

    Quote Originally Posted by richy View Post

    The paint was allowed to dry overnight. I finished it at about 1:30 am and didn't get back on to it until 1:00 the next day so it actually had 12 hours to dry.

    Couple of comments to anyone ever attempting to do this kind of repair...


    1. When possible, let the paint dry longer. You want the touch up paint as dry and hard as possible before you start sanding and buffing on it.

    The problem you can run into when you start buffing on touch-up paint is when you warm it up, especially when using a rotary buffer, you can actually pull the touch-up paint right out of the scratch or rock chip if you're attempting to do this to a rock chip. Then you're back to where you started only now you've got sanding marks in the surrounding paint.



    2. Touch-up paint will always be softer than the factory paint surrounding the repair, here's how this affects the buffing process. When you go to buff out your sanding marks, they will buff out quickly and easily out of the touch-up paint because this paint is softer, especially if it's only dried a short time. The surrounding paint will be harder and thus it will be harder or more difficult to remove your sanding marks out 100%

    It's easy to sand paint as at it's core that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting the ALL out...

    When doing touch-up repair work on clear coat paints, what I've seen and experienced is the sanding marks come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily but not so with the factory clear.

    So what a person does is continue buffing the sanding marks in the surrounding clear paint and what happens is you heat the panel up and your buffing pad will literally pull the touch-up paint out of the scratch or chip.



    3. You really need a rotary buffer to remove sanding marks 100%

    Can you do it with a DA or Flex or even Cyclo? Sure but it will take longer. Again the sanding marks will come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily, it's the surrounding factory baked-on clear coat that you'll need to be concerned with.

    Try to finish sand with #3000 or higher before buffing.



  9. #29
    Super Member richy's Avatar
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    Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

    Quote Originally Posted by NICOBKN View Post
    very nice job!

    tried doing something similar on my gfs car and totally failed
    I'm sorry to hear that. It has not always worked for me before either, but I've learned a few things to help make it more successful. See Mike's comments below; he has some very valid points there.

    Quote Originally Posted by timaishu View Post
    AMAZING!

    Puhhheeeezz let this be stickied.

    If not, its already in my favorites for furture reference!
    Quote Originally Posted by Sunshyne View Post
    just ordered some Unirgrit, going to pick up some touch up this weekend and I too shall give this a try
    thanks for posting this!!
    I will ask Mike if he will. Just remember to use slow speed on the rotary and a wool pad. That way you're not generating heat (which is the enemy) and get good, fast, cool correction.

    Quote Originally Posted by LegacyGT View Post
    Richy -

    Really nice and informative how-to article, this one is going into my 'reference' folder. I think you may be getting me inspired to re-do a key mark touch up job on my own car
    Thank you Bill. I've been doing it this way for a while with great success every time. It took me a while to get here though. The key points that Mike and I have touched on will determine the success.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek View Post
    Nice how-to and write-up Richy,



    Couple of comments to anyone ever attempting to do this kind of repair...

    1. When possible, let the paint dry longer. You want the touch up paint as dry and hard as possible before you start sanding and buffing on it.

    The problem you can run into when you start buffing on touch-up paint is when you warm it up, especially when using a rotary buffer, you can actually pull the touch-up paint right out of the scratch or rock chip if you're attempting to do this to a rock chip. Then you're back to where you started only now you've got sanding marks in the surrounding paint.



    2. Touch-up paint will always be softer than the factory paint surrounding the repair, here's how this affects the buffing process. When you go to buff out your sanding marks, they will buff out quickly and easily out of the touch-up paint because this paint is softer, especially if it's only dried a short time. The surrounding paint will be harder and thus it will be harder or more difficult to remove your sanding marks out 100%

    It's easy to sand paint as at it's core that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting the ALL out...

    When doing touch-up repair work on clear coat paints, what I've seen and experienced is the sanding marks come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily but not so with the factory clear.

    So what a person does is continue buffing the sanding marks in the surrounding clear paint and what happens is you heat the panel up and your buffing pad will literally pull the touch-up paint out of the scratch or chip.



    3. You really need a rotary buffer to remove sanding marks 100%

    Can you do it with a DA or Flex or even Cyclo? Sure but it will take longer. Again the sanding marks will come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily, it's the surrounding factory baked-on clear coat that you'll need to be concerned with.

    Try to finish sand with #3000 or higher before buffing.


    Mike, those are some amazing points. I should add a few more details too. I use a Dynabrade rotary which is a torque monster. I can do amazing correcting work at 1,000 rpm in combination with my black TufBuff wool pad and M105. That combo just plain works. The advantage to the low speed in combination with the wool is that it does not generate heat which, as you mentioned, will pull the paint out of the repair. I had corrected the 3000 grit marks in seconds with this combo!

  10. #30
    Super Member Flash Gordon's Avatar
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    Re: Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

    Nice save Richy!
    “Hard times create strong men, strong men create good times, good times create weak men, and weak men create hard times.”

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