How would Menzerna Top Inspection compare to these other options?
Any idea of the chemical composition of Menzerna Top Inspection?
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How would Menzerna Top Inspection compare to these other options?
Any idea of the chemical composition of Menzerna Top Inspection?
Not yet...but its description says it's water-based, has no silicones, no fillers, only cleaning agents.
If someone that has Menzerna's Top Inspection, and requested the MSDS with their shipment, would reply....
Besides IPA, Mineral Spirits....Other paint inspection options I've used with excellent results:
Optimum Power Clean @2:1
Groit’s Paint Prep
3M Prep Solvent
DuPont PrepSol
Wurth Clean Solve
:)
Bob
I learned about using MS from the chemists at Meguiar's and they are some of the best at what they do...
I too like how it wipes and it seems to do a really good job of removing any polishing oils off the paint.
A guy can get crazy if he wants and strip using,
MS
IPA
Detergent Wash
etc.
As long as you're not re-introducing marring into the paint if these stripping steps are done before application of LSP that's the main thing.
:)
re: "Mineral Spirits are another option for chemically stripping an automotive finish, from my discussions with chemists on this topic, odorless Mineral Spirits should be chosen as the process for removing the odors is actually removing a lot of nastier substances through further refining of the product."
Compared to odorless MS, I've found the "smelly" mineral spirits to be more effective at removing waxes, oils, and adhesive residue from wood, prior to finishing. With wood, you can actually see how effectively it's removing the residue because you can see the parts of the wood darkened from the residue actually disappear and match the rest of the wood.
I looked into this once (wondering why), and what I found was the process of making odorless MS less smelly removes (among other things) most of the toluene and xylene (smelly, and very toxic parts), but those are very effective at removing oils (and wax and adhesive residue if I recall). I didn't take it much further since that seemed to explain why the smelly MS seemed to be more effective than the odorless.
This doesn't contradict what Mike wrote ("the process for removing the odors is actually removing a lot of nastier substances through further refining of the product"), but makes a different point about cleaning effectiveness. The odorless is less toxic though.
Mike, any chance you can run this by your chemist friends, to see if they think it's plausible that smelly MS is more effective at cleaning (oils, waxes, and/or adhesive tape residue) due to the presence of the toluene and xylene? Who knows, maybe the info I found was completely wrong.
PS, any rags soaked with MS should be laid flat, preferably outside and away from anything, until completely dried. They can spontaneously combust.
From a mineral spirits MSDS:
"NOTE: Under certain circumstances, absorbent materials soaked in this product and heaped in a corner can undergo spontaneous combustion. Always dry used absorbent materials thoroughly before discarding."
I agree. Some good word-smithing there... :)
Just from a common sense, big picture point of view, it sounds very plausible but... the even bigger picture is washing and waxing your car should be fun and/or profitable, not rocket science and dangerous.
I always try to accommodate requests for help or information from everyone, at the same time I like to only call in favor when it hits a certain threshold. Next time I'm in a position to ask your question because I'm in the position, then I will as I will remember this discussion. But I'm not going to initiate a phone call or an e-mail just because of it.
I'm a huge fan of KISS approaches, that is Keep it Simple Simon. In my life I've already been exposed to way too many nasty solvents and now days I like to try to work a little safe and the Lord willing, maybe live a long life, I know my son and my fiancé would like this...
At some point everyone can figure out an approach that works for them when it comes to taking care of their own cars or their procedures for taking care of customer cars, I like to try to keep it simple. An example is the most complicated automotive device I ever want to own is an HEI ignition system.
I don't mind learning about specific application procedures and then sharing them with others to showcase a company's product, there's plenty of examples of this on this forum already but for general practice, simpler tends to end up being better, at least for my preferences...
Good question though...
:dblthumb2:
Wow, there is some really great information here. Mike must be part machine to not only put his thoughts, and ideas into words here but illustrations too. Very time consuming. I do have a question and I hope I didn’t miss the answer if it was already asked and answered.
Does it make any difference in using either the IPA or MS method on single stage, non clear coated paint?
After reading through this thread, a thought came to me that maybe one could use 1 ounce of ONR mixed with 31 ounces of water in a spray bottle. Dampen a microfiber cloth with the mixture, mist the area you want to clean and wipe it off. Would this work?