You mean we're supposed to see the forest from the trees? ;)
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Here is the trim in my Wife's Tahoe
The worst piece is above the glovebox (or at least the sun hits it the best and it is more obvious)
Hey Mike,
I was wondering since you brought up the subject of 'correctly' doing hand polishing...do you think you could add that to your list of videos :)
I mean when you think about it, EVERY car has some sort of an area (im talking paint now, not wood trim) where a polisher, even a 3" one...wont fit...around windshields and windows..sometiems under spoilers...small areas on bumpers/fenders.
I think showing a good technique on hand polishing would really come in handy since even the pro's have to bust out the oldest tool known to man kind on jobs:props:
FWIW
Wife's car also has the 'wood trim'. One of the pieces had one h of nasty scratch. Played and played some more to remove it, no joy. Couldn't remove them, I think they are super double taped on.
Says to myself, "Self, try the "Dremel." I used M205/M9 at the SLOWEST speed, and GENTLY buffed ALL of that nasty scratch out. Then, again GENTLY went after the rest. These were just 'normal' type scratches.In the end,nice smooooth finish. Applied a small amount of M16.
If anything, they may be too shiny...LOL.
Bill
That's a good idea and it is on the list...
One thing I've been typing a lot this year is how it takes more skill to remove defects by hand than it does to use a tool like the Porter Cable DA Polisher.
For the most part, if you use the right pad and a quality compound or polish you just can't make a mistake with the DA Polishers on the market, if fact it's so easy for just about anyone to get professional results their very first time with zero experience...
Proof You Can Do It! - Joe The Detailer - Black Porsche Turned into Black Pearl!
Proof the Average Guy can get Professional Results their first time Machine Polishing
Not true when it comes to doing the same thing by hand...
So it's on the list...
:)
Thanks for taking the picture and attaching it... I tool the liberty to download it and then upload it to the AG Gallery so I can insert it for easier viewing and thus easier discussing...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...2/IM002731.jpg
benzer77
Does the above picture resemble what you are also working on?
:)
Mike, here is what I would like to correct. It's burl walnut. Thanks.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...&pictureid=734
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...&pictureid=735
Yup I agree...working by hand is rough stuff especially in tight spaces. I dont think im a master at it by any means but im always trying to learn to get better.
I think multiple example of how you hand work different areas ..like a thin but long area such as the strip along a windshield...or maybe a little wider area like a rear view mirror or door handle area would really help shed some light on something Ive seen very little written about let alone VIDEOS done on, so when you do get around to it I hope I don't miss that you put it up...I'm glad its on the list :dblthumb2:
The inside of my friends van has real wood in it...its the Sherod Chevy Express....very nice looking but I'd like to polish out the scratches which are lighter than the ones you show, but very similiar. I guess we were lucky because the previous owners really didnt clean it, EVER lol...so they didnt scratch it up too bad.
Id like to hear some ideas on just general maintenence as well. Our old van was a Starcraft edition GMC and the wood in some areas seems to have faded to a much lighter color that what it started out as years ago...thats Az for you I guess.
I dont know if there are any ways to bring the color back or not, but if it's possible to just maintain what's there now as well as ways to remove the scratches, that would be worth hearing:props:
Wow! That' looks pretty bad, like someone has been cleaning it with a wire brush!
Without having the actual vehicle here to work on, here's the skinny on how to approach something like this...
The Burl Walnut obviously has some type of coating over it, so you're not working on Burl Walnut, you're working on the coating. Since it's clear, it's probably some type of urethane. Just a guess but it's highly unlikely they use the type of lacquer paint used in the furniture industry, so it's probably a high tech coating of some type that can withstand the extreme temperature changes cars and trucks are exposed to causing the components and thus the coating to expand and contract.
Regardless of what the coating is...the way you remove swirls and scratches out of any type of coating or material is to abrade the coating in such a way as to level the upper most surface area with the lowest depths of the defects you're trying to remover.
In other words you're trying to level the surface so that it is perfectly flat, not flat as in matte, but flat as in no below surface imperfections.
You have to variables that bring risk to the equation
1. Is the coating polishable?
2. Do you have enough film-build to safely work with without going through the coating.
I don't have the answer to either of the above questions but if I had the car here in front of me I would practice the basics,
- Evaluate the surface - (you already did this)
- Choose the right product
- Use good technique
If you cannot track down exactly what the coating is and my guess is that's a hard question to be able to find someone from the car company that actually has any helpful information, then what you do is approach it like paint and do two things,
- Use the least aggressive product to get the job done
- Test your first product of choice on an inconspicuous area and then inspect the results.
If the results look good then continue working the product to the surface of the component.
If the results look bad... you'll be glad you ONLY tested to an inconspicuous area.
As for products, to date when trying to remove scratches out of modern clear coats by hand I've had the best luck using SMAT products, maybe try the new ScratchX wit a clean foam or microfiber applicator pad.
I would definitely be taping off all the surrounding panels and components to avoid getting any product on them and wherever possible I would opt to work by machine.
:)