Don't wax your car for at least 30 days!

Mike Phillips · 11-10-2010, 12:40 PM

Originally Posted by DIEZLE

There are so many variables that to be on the safe side, they just say 30 days.

I agree, it's a good general rule of thumb that won't hurt anything and most people will follow this advice.

Then after 30 days... wax-on... wax-off...

**Fly bye** · 01-28-2011, 06:05 AM

**sohail99** · 03-27-2011, 12:54 PM

I'm like on 43rd day of the repainted panels!

I've been using M80 speed glaze on them(speed glaze is freakin amazing and a total breeze to take off!! (I used it with an orange pad)

I tried M07 first, but I figured that while removing it, I'd definitely scratch the paint!

It sets so hard, now I love M80. I wont use M07 again!!)

Anyways, I read somewhere that I needed to wait for 2 months?

Those portions need some wetsanding(with a 2000 and then 3000 grit papers)

bodyshop has scratched them pretty bad! looks like they used like 800 grit or something!

**Blackthorn One** · 03-27-2011, 02:14 PM

Originally Posted by sohail99

I'm like on 43rd day of the repainted panels!

I've been using M80 speed glaze on them(speed glaze is freakin amazing and a total breeze to take off!! (I used it with an orange pad)

I tried M07 first, but I figured that while removing it, I'd definitely scratch the paint!

It sets so hard, now I love M80. I wont use M07 again!!)

Anyways, I read somewhere that I needed to wait for 2 months?

Those portions need some wetsanding(with a 2000 and then 3000 grit papers)

bodyshop has scratched them pretty bad! looks like they used like 800 grit or something!

Are you referring to Meguiar's #7? If so, firstly, if you work it when its still wet until you have just a thin haze on the paint, instead of a thick paste, it will be much easier to remove, and if there is any doubt about marring, all you need to do is spray the area with a little detail spray or waterless wash if you are really concerned, and then, no matter how hard it has set up, it wipes off super easy. I've let it sit on a car (in the garage, that is) for over a week, and it was still super easy to get off with waterless wash. Let it sit for a minute or two, and it's easier to remove than if it was still wet right out of the bottle. Meg's #7 is essential for bringing back single stage paint. You really have nothing to be afraid of with Meguiar's #7.

**sohail99** · 03-27-2011, 10:50 PM

^Thanks for the tips!

So can I refinish and seal the repainted panels?(Its been 44 days that I've left the repainted panels bare)

**Blackthorn One** · 03-28-2011, 01:20 AM

Originally Posted by sohail99

^Thanks for the tips!

So can I refinish and seal the repainted panels?(Its been 44 days that I've left the repainted panels bare)

I would wait at LEAST 6 weeks, and would prefer to wait 8 weeks. If I was going only 6 weeks, I would use a wax and not a sealant. I have heard that a wax can still allow paint to cure at around 6 weeks, but a sealant definitely will not. You won't get any significant oxidation or wear over another few weeks, and so I would prefer to be on the safe side, since the worst case scenario is more favorable when waiting a little longer to wax or seal than it is to wax or seal now and risk some paint problem because of applying sealant prematurely.

I've had my car repainted a few times, and have been in your position before. I was so excited to wax my newly painted car, but decided that the prudent thing to do would be to wait. As far as refinishing, if there are any serious paint defects that you want to polish out, I would sand those out now, while the paint is softer, to save yourself some work. I would wait until the paint is fully cured before I did any serious buffing, though, because of the heat generated, and because I think that you will get better results polishing more fully cured paint. As long as you are gentle wet sanding, it will make things easier. In my personal experience using these methods, I have always gotten great results.

Remember to use a little bit of dishwashing detergent or car wash soap, to prevent the sandpaper from loading up with paint. I found it is best to use a spray bottle, and to squirt it at least every 3-5 sanding strokes, to keep it wet. It is far better to have too much water than too little. Yes, you will probably go through a quart every 15-20 minutes of sanding, but it save a lot of headaches. You spray the paper every once in a while, too, to rinse off the milky water, to make sure the paper is clean. Check the paper frequently, at least every 10 seconds of sanding, to make sure that there is no paint loaded up on the paper. If there are little specks or streaks of paint on the paper, you take another piece of sandpaper and first spray the dirty paper with water, and then lightly scrub the built up paint off. This is important, because paint build up on paper can gouge your finish pretty bad with deep scratches that will take a long time to remove. You could be working with 1500 grit paper or even 2500, and then paint stuck on the paper could put 200 grit scratches it the paint.

**sohail99** · 03-28-2011, 04:05 AM

^Wow!! thanks a lot!!

Really great tips there! Will so exactly as you said!

(btw I asked the bodyshop guy, whether I can use a wax or not, he was like ok with it!. So I qd's those panels with fk425!!

Do I need to remove that?

**Blackthorn One** · 03-28-2011, 04:55 AM

Originally Posted by sohail99

^Wow!! thanks a lot!!

Really great tips there! Will so exactly as you said!

(btw I asked the bodyshop guy, whether I can use a wax or not, he was like ok with it!. So I qd's those panels with fk425!!

Do I need to remove that?

I expect that you will be using a firm foam rubber block to back your sandpaper with, to ensure an even surface, as opposed to using just your fingers, which can result in an uneven, somewhat ripply surface. During sanding, you can use the foam rubber block as a squeegee to periodically check your work, instead of using towels, because that will soak up towels pretty quick, and you will find it difficult to have towels dry enough to let you really see your progress. Of course, you would never normally rub a foam block across your paint, but any minuscule abrasions that may occur will be more than taken care of with polishing. (It isn't enough to worry about) Of course, it is absolutely critical that the area of the car you work on, and any adjoining areas be completely dust and grit free, to avoid deep scratches, but maybe you already knew that. It's SOO important, though, especially when sanding, because you will be using flat paper with a much more rigid surface than a foam pad, a wool pad,or a towel, which are a lot more forgiving when it comes to dust.
I don't know anything about fk425, so I cannot say, but even quick detailers or waterless washes can contain sealant, like Griot's Garage Spray On Car Wash, or wax, like a lot of detailers contain. i do not believe that a little wax in a quick detailer would present any problems 3 weeks after paint, but I would be a little concerned about anything containing sealant until the paint is fully cured.

**sohail99** · 03-28-2011, 05:27 AM

^Yea! i use the meguiars sanding backing pad for wrapping sandpapers!

I'll usually start with 2000 and finish with 3000 grit.

btw I have a mirka abralon 6" sanding disc(4000 grit) can I use it with a DA sander that I have? Or hand sanding only?

**Blackthorn One** · 03-28-2011, 05:58 AM

Originally Posted by sohail99

^Yea! i use the meguiars sanding backing pad for wrapping sandpapers!

I'll usually start with 2000 and finish with 3000 grit.

btw I have a mirka abralon 6" sanding disc(4000 grit) can I use it with a DA sander that I have? Or hand sanding only?

I have only sanded by hand my entire life. I have no experience with a DA sander. I have seen write ups in which people have used DA sanders with fine paper and the only drawback seems to be being able to get into tight areas with the machine.