Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...
Finished compounding everything panel except the roof as it had a coat of M21 on it.
Here's the sides of the Elky,
After Compounding with M105, a Wool Cutting Pad and a Makita Rotary Buffer
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...pounding01.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...pounding02.jpg
Here's a roof shot, this has been sanded, edged, major panels compounded, polished twice with the rotary buffer, polished once with the G110v2, machine sealed and dried sealant wiped-off by hand.
After Machine Damp Sanding
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...terSanding.jpg
After a "Complete" Machine Polishing Process
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...fterM21001.jpg
:)
Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...
Mike you are the man.
I was wondering how much pressure did you apply when using Meguiar's Unigrit #3000 Foam Finishing Discs?
Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rohnramirez
Since you mentioned it cuts through paint quite fast even though it's just 3000grit, would you equate it to a regular sandpaper with 2000 grit as far as cutting is concerned? Or it cuts that fast because you're damp sanding?
Just a high quality design of engineered abrasives and 100% coverage over the entire surface.
A #2000 Grit in this same design would sand faster than #3000
One factor that needs to be pointed out and that's Topcoat Hardness, the harder the clear the harder it will be to sand.
From experience, this paint buffs easy and this was reflected, (no pun intended), in how it sanded as it sanded easy to. If fact I'll try to find the painter and ask him what brand clear he sprayed as this is a very nice buffing clear paint.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rohnramirez
I've wetsanded with 2000grit then 2500grit then applied compound and polish, all by hand, but it just takes forever to finish a whole car.
Been there, done that and sometime it just goes with the territory. I didn't want to remove the side mirror but I did sand under them and then removed my sanding marks by hand using a Cobra microfiber applicator pad and M105
Quote:
Originally Posted by
termigator
Does AG sell the foam finishing discs and anything else needed to attach to the DA?
We will have everything on the AG store as soon as it gets in... the orders were placed months ago, we're just waiting on shipments, when they come in you'll see a thread go up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rohnramirez
+1 on :whs:
Tried looking for it at the AG store but couldn't find it.
See above answer...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Slava
I was wondering how much pressure did you apply when using Meguiar's Unigrit #3000 Foam Finishing Discs?
Light pressure, rapid arm movement. Used the 6.0 Speed Setting for the major flat panels, slowed her down to anywhere from 3.0 to 5.0 for tight, harder to sand areas like this, which I think the DA was on the 4.0
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...ections002.jpg
The video we shot answers all of these questions, the next video will go into more detail and the article I've written also covers technique in-depth. I won't post the article till the first video is ready to launch.
:)
Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...
Thanks Mike.
Can't wait to see that video and article.
Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...
Fantastic job Mike! Your write-ups are truly the best in the business. That red looks deep!
Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek
Just a high quality design of engineered abrasives and 100% coverage over the entire surface.
A #2000 Grit in this same design would sand faster than #3000
One factor that needs to be pointed out and that's Topcoat Hardness, the harder the clear the harder it will be to sand.
From experience, this paint buffs easy and this was reflected, (no pun intended), in how it sanded as it sanded easy to. If fact I'll try to find the painter and ask him what brand clear he sprayed as this is a very nice buffing clear paint.
Wonderful..so it's just like regular sandpaper attached to a plate. But,i'm gonna be a bit cautious on this and just use 2500 and 3000 grits to get a perfect finish. Once the DA arrives, i'll try a DIY sanding disk and post pics.
Awesome job on the red paint Mike, beautiful, just beautiful. :xyxthumbs: Will be waiting for the video, hope it's in-depth on how to use it on a DA...and may be the differences from doing it by hand would be great too! :drool:
Also, i wanna thank you for all the information you provide us, and everyone on the forums for sharing their thoughts on my inquiries too. I just love this forum!!!:thankyousign:
Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...
how do you go over the tape like that..my PC eats right through it...
Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rohnramirez
Wonderful..so it's just like regular sandpaper attached to a plate.
Actually it's nothing like "regular" sandpaper, the specifics of how "Unigrit" abrasive particles are engineered, sized, embodied in a slurry, distributed evenly over a surface and cured to the surface is proprietary information.
:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Rydis
how do you go over the tape like that..my PC eats right through it...
I don't buff on top of the tape on purpose, I somewhere in this thread or a related thread and also in the video I commented how the tape does two things,
- I protects the paint under it
- It serves as a visual indicator so I don't buff that area because I can see it...
I usually don't like to leave tape on a car as long as I did but I've had to work on this project around other projects. Because it's been cold so far I've had no problem whatsoever removing the tape. Removing the residue lines left behind was done using the new Meguiar's Spot Buff Pads, the M205 and a careful, steady hand.
Here's a couple of before shots out in the sun where I was checking the results of the demo section after chemically stripping it as well as the entire car with Mineral Spirits.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...camino_028.jpg
This is the "Finger Trick" to enable your camera to focus on the surface to captures the swirls, you can also use a piece of tape, or clay or a nickle, etc., anything on the surface to give your camera a focal point to capture the true condition of the paint. I usually use my finger since I have it with me...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...camino_029.jpg
As of today, the front has been de-taped and sealed and next will get an application of Fusion...
After sanding, compounding/RB, polishing/RB, polishing/DA (before wipe-off of last application of M205, this wasn't left to dry, I just took the picture before wiping it off)
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...camino_024.jpg
Thin coat of M21 Synthetic Sealant drying
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...camino_025.jpg
After wiping off M21
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...camino_026.jpg
Next... Füzion
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...camino_027.jpg
:)
Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...
Awesome Mike!
Maybe you should end this with M20/M16 instead of M21.
Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek
Actually it's nothing like "regular" sandpaper, the specifics of how "Unigrit" abrasive particles are engineered, sized, embodied in a slurry, distributed evenly over a surface and cured to the surface is proprietary information.
Oooops..sorry. That's not exactly what i meant. Sorry for the confusion. What i meant was that the unigrit # categories for cutting are also the same as those of regular sandpapers. Like if i were to use it by hand, 3000 megs unigrit cuts the same as 3000grit of 3m sandpaper.
:dblthumb2: