Nice work Mike. :props: Always great to hear from the Pro. :buffing: Hope you got some serious overtime for the project :work: Especially for the write up :urtheman:
Printable View
Nice work Mike. :props: Always great to hear from the Pro. :buffing: Hope you got some serious overtime for the project :work: Especially for the write up :urtheman:
Your Orange-handled Pad Brushes are on back-order. Any word on when these might be available again ?
So you use this Brush to scrape off the Pad's Build-up, right ?
If you don't remove this build-up off in time, does the residual crud do any damage, or is it just that the Foam can't do any more cutting, with it's pores all blocked with spent compound ?
Tell me more about this Build-up and the removal of it, please.
Many thanks in advance from a Canadian Customer.
Good Show Mike! Excellent write-up and as always great work.:dblthumb2:
Yes.
You can use that brush to clean any product residue off any foam pad. The way I was using it was to hold the pad in my hand and draw the bristles against it over a box.
You can also use it with a rotary buffer as the buffer's running. There's more information about cleaning your buffing pads in this thread.
How to clean your foam pad on the fly
Kind of a little bit of both.
First, if you're using a specific type of foam for it's characteristics, in this case a cutting foam to cut with, then you want the foam in contact with the paint, so you need to clean the residue build-up from off the face of the pad for this reason.
Second, you always want to work clean. Adding fresh product to spent product dilutes or adulterates the fresh product, so for this reason you want to remove spent product. If you think about it, the residue on the surface of the pad is a mixture of both spent product and removed paint particles, you don't want to keep rubbing this against the paint, so you want to clean any build-up off the face of the pad and also wipe your surface clean before working that section again, if you're going to work it more than once.
The build-up is normal and you'll see it with any product you're applying and working against the paint. It's just a good practice to work clean, this applies if you're working by hand or by machine. It takes more time to stop the process, (by hand or machine), and clean you tools whatever they may be, but by working clean you're removing the potential for any problems because you've removed used-up product out of the process and you're enabling the pad of your choice to do it's job better because there's no spent product in the mix. Again, this would be true of working by hand or machine and applies to any product you're using to remove defects.
Not removing spent product can cause the process to become gummy and make wipe-off more difficult, this will slow you down and lower the quality of your end-results.
Can't stress enough the importance of always working clean.
Excellent write-up! Sure is nice to have you around. :urtheman:
I would like to hear the story of your first (running) car should you take the time to type it up.
As long as it doesn't delay your Flex 3401 write-up! :poke:
Can't wait to hear your opinions on it, I sure love mine :D
Mike great write up. Your insane for even attempting to polish half of that boat by hand!
Hey Mike,great write up..
I was just curious as to what the meguiar's apron is made out of?I know you mentioned the Edge one to be the best and was MF.But I think I want to buy the meguiars one...
It's cotton and the front of the apron is fairly soft, kind of like a brushed cotton. It's definitely the best looking apron around.
Two pockets up front also to put squeeze bottles or even 16 ounce bottles into.
I like the idea of the microfiber bonnets because we all know how gentle microfiber is to a car's finish in-case you have to lean on the car on purpose or by accident, but at the same time these Meguiar's aprons look nice and look professional.
:xyxthumbs:
1948 Bentley - Hand Rubbed Lacquer Paint
Since this thread touches on the topic of rubbing paint out by hand I thought I would share this detail I did back in the summer of 2007
I used about $30.00 of OTC products and a lot of perspiration and passion behind the pad and it paid off very handsomely for one days work.
This is the most I've ever made for hand-rubbing out a finish.
It looks good in this picture but when pulled out into the sun you could see the entire finish was filled with swirls and had a lifeless hazy look to it.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls001.jpg
Major swirls throughout the entire finish
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls002.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls003.jpg
Before and After
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls004.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls005.jpg
After shots - Lots of real-estate but it was a fun project!
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls006.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls007.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls008.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls009.jpg
You can expect to see some pigment transfer off onto your applicator pads. I used terry cloth applicator pads until I got to the waxing steps then I switched over to foam.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls010.jpg
$700.00 for the work and a $100.00 tip, not bad for a Saturday using OTC or Over The Counter Products.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...48Rolls011.jpg
I'm currently looking for classic cars in the South Florida area for an extreme makeover project, they don't have to be this old but they do have to have single stage paint. Call or e-mail if you have a candidate. There won't be a charge if your car is selected as it will be used for training purposes.
:)
Mike,
How did the swirls come out so easily with something as light as Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner? Is single stage paint that easy to work on?