How to use a one-step cleaner/wax to maximize profits

[DirtyBlackHoe]

Topping an AIO with anything sort if defeats the purpose of an AIO in my opinion. You might as well use a dedicated polish and then finish with a wax or sealant of your choosing if going that route.

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That makes perfect sense. I just figured that a dedicated Sealant would have more durability...How is the long term durability of the D151 protection wise?

[jankerson]

I am just trying to clarify since I am still new to the whole detailing thing. I would basically use the D151 on a white foam pad and go over the entire vehicle, making slow passes with the product (just like a two step polish)?. When I was done with that, it would be clean, polished, and sealed correct? Could I add a separate sealant on top, or would the D151 residue/sealant hinder the bonding of the Paint Sealant?

No, not really.

It's a true one step, after pad choice and test spot, one would generally go with 3 section passes then move to the next section. Then go back and wipe off the haze once the whole car was done. You can do the windows too with D151 while doing the paint.

Now one can boost the protection with a spray wax if they choose to. But in general it's not really needed if the car is to be maintained properly anyway. After the 1st wash it would be hit with a spray wax anyway I would hope.

An extra 5 to 10 mins to put on a spray wax isn't much time and if used as a drying aid it doesn't add any time.

D151 can be used either as an AIO or a 2 step by wiping off the product as one goes then change pads to a finishing pad and apply like a Wax for a finial polish wax.

But use as an AIO is what it was designed for, but the versatility is really good also.

For production detailing in a general since it could be the main product used all around likely 98% of the time.

The spray waxes I use are Megs D156 and WG Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant, either can be used as a drying aid.

[AutowerxDetailing]

That makes perfect sense. I just figured that a dedicated Sealant would have more durability...How is the long term durability of the D151 protection wise?

I've seen 4+ months of durability out of D151 and the same for XMT360.

[DirtyBlackHoe]

Thank you both for your comments. I am definitely going to have to get some D151 if the side business picks up this spring.

[Brunkel]

This is such a fantastic thread with great points from Mike and others!

My first year detailing for money I was correcting and doing 2-steps on every vehicle. Spent 8-10 hours on vehicles that didn't need that. I have since started using AIO's for my basic package and it is working out GREAT!

Here is a shot of what XMT360 can do. This was on a White LC pad. This product is the easiest to buff off. It is actually supposed to flash completely and not require any buffing but I do anyway Chrome and B-billars were done with auto-finesse triple.







Mike - Maybe you could add some comments about what the proper amount of product to use is on an AIO/cleaner wax verses a dedicated polish? I've always used the 3 pee-sized drops when polishing but you mention keeping the product/pad "wet" when using an AIO. I seem to recall an autogeek video with xmt360 and it looked like you loaded the product on.
- Priming techniques?
- Do you clean your pads on the fly with towel technique in your other article?
- It seems like with a lot of product the pad is going to cake up much faster so I'm curious how often you clean on the fly with an AIO

One thing to point out is that I actually noticed a few minor imperfections APPEAR after using the cleaning wax in some cases. B/c what essentially you are doing is cleaning the surface you may uncover a few more imperfections while slightly correcting some. Let me be clear that this is not adding imperfections, but you are definitely exposing the true paint, but of course polishing it to a nice gloss. This is me me and my picky detailing eye...no customer would ever notice it.

I plan to add MD151 to my arsenal next.

Interesting to read that you can AIO the windows. I never thought of that as I always used Megs dedicated glass cleaner. D112 or something like that? The grape stuff! I will have to try that next time as the last car I did had some stubborn spots on the windows that the glass cleaner couldn't take out.

I like the idea of topping the AIO with a spray wax. I'll have to do some tests and see if it's really worth it. I would like to try optimum spray wax for this as I hear great things. Would you spray on paint directly or on microfiber towel to apply?

Great article once again!

[Mike Phillips]

This is such a fantastic thread with great points from Mike and others!

My first year detailing for money I was correcting and doing 2-steps on every vehicle. Spent 8-10 hours on vehicles that didn't need that.

I have since started using AIO's for my basic package and it is working out GREAT!

Good to hear and great feedback for others to read.



[quote=Brunkel;1165042]

Here is a shot of what XMT360 can do. This was on a White LC pad. This product is the easiest to buff off. It is actually supposed to flash completely and not require any buffing but I do anyway Chrome and B-billars were done with auto-finesse triple.


Ding dang! the paint looks liquid wet!

Mike - Maybe you could add some comments about what the proper amount of product to use is on an AIO/cleaner wax verses a dedicated polish?

I've always used the 3 pee-sized drops when polishing but you mention keeping the product/pad "wet" when using an AIO.

See post ## of this article...


How to choose a one-step cleaner/wax


You'll see the words heavy and wet and I explain what the mean in context of using a cleaner/wax or AIO.

- Priming techniques?

You can prime your pad like you would when using a compound or polish or just place an X pattern, or Circle pattern on the face of the pad and get to work. After a few section passes you're pad will be primed.

- Do you clean your pads on the fly with towel technique in your other article?

Definitely YES

You're going to be pulling a lot of gunk like road film, oxidation and paint off the paint so yes, clean your pad often.

- It seems like with a lot of product the pad is going to cake up much faster so I'm curious how often you clean on the fly with an AIO

Well if you're working on severely neglected paint you want a LOT of liquid on the surface working for you, not a thin film of product.

Liquid = your choice of cleaner/wax


If you're maintaining a daily driver in good condition then you can use a little product.

That's the nature of using a cleaner/wax.

One thing to point out is that I actually noticed a few minor imperfections APPEAR after using the cleaning wax in some cases. B/c what essentially you are doing is cleaning the surface you may uncover a few more imperfections while slightly correcting some. Let me be clear that this is not adding imperfections, but you are definitely exposing the true paint, but of course polishing it to a nice gloss. This is me me and my picky detailing eye...no customer would ever notice it.

When you buff out neglected paint, especially clearcoats, you clear up the surface and expose or reveal defects that you previously didn't notice. It's normal.

In the same way buffing out paint reveals the random isolated, deeper scratches or RIDS buffing out paint with a compound, polish or cleaner/wax will reveal all kinds of defects.

I plan to add MD151 to my arsenal next.

Interesting to read that you can AIO the windows. I never thought of that as I always used Megs dedicated glass cleaner. D112 or something like that? The grape stuff! I will have to try that next time as the last car I did had some stubborn spots on the windows that the glass cleaner couldn't take out.

Glass isn't too picky...

I like the idea of topping the AIO with a spray wax. I'll have to do some tests and see if it's really worth it. I would like to try optimum spray wax for this as I hear great things. Would you spray on paint directly or on microfiber towel to apply?

Great article once again!

How you apply a spray wax kind of depends on what you're doing but in most cases I dampen a clean, folded microfiber towel with the spray wax and then use the dampened microfiber towel to apply and spread out a thin, layer of wax.


I teach this topic as one of my classes at Mobile Tech Expo each year and also in my Detailing Boot Camp Classes.

[PiPUK]

That makes perfect sense. I just figured that a dedicated Sealant would have more durability...How is the long term durability of the D151 protection wise?

I would have to admit that I would likely top one of our AIOs with a dedicated sealant, if I wanted best results. Whilst the AIOs can give great results, I can never achieve the same durability with the AIO as with a dedicated sealant. That said, it depends just how much 'cut' your AIO has. From my perspective, an AIO would have a notable cut, sufficient that it can do a bit of correction without any help from your pad (it can even correct a bit by hand). I would actually add a sub-group which is a cleaner wax/sealant. This is the type which is a liquid/cream/paste product, good solvent content such that it will clean well but without the abrasive. As such, it is a cleaner and a wax/sealant, but it is not a polish. Such a product can easily be filler heavy and can give superb results with minimal effort. In this instance, yes, it can give dedicated sealant like durability.

[Brunkel]

I would have to admit that I would likely top one of our AIOs with a dedicated sealant, if I wanted best results. Whilst the AIOs can give great results, I can never achieve the same durability with the AIO as with a dedicated sealant. That said, it depends just how much 'cut' your AIO has. From my perspective, an AIO would have a notable cut, sufficient that it can do a bit of correction without any help from your pad (it can even correct a bit by hand). I would actually add a sub-group which is a cleaner wax/sealant. This is the type which is a liquid/cream/paste product, good solvent content such that it will clean well but without the abrasive. As such, it is a cleaner and a wax/sealant, but it is not a polish. Such a product can easily be filler heavy and can give superb results with minimal effort. In this instance, yes, it can give dedicated sealant like durability.

Wouldn't the sealant not bond as well as an AIO topper due to the layer of wax or sealant already left behind from the AIO? I believe that is why some are suggesting a spray wax as it will just boost whats already there. Although I'm thinking you might as well wait till the first maintenance wash to do the spray wax now.

[Mike Phillips]

Wouldn't the sealant not bond as well as an AIO topper due to the layer of wax or sealant already left behind from the AIO?

Here's my take...

After using a one-step cleaner/wax either stick a fork in it and call it done.


If you're detailing for money it's about doing what you said you would do and a part of the reason for this is to manage your time invested.

Applying a second product for more protection, longer protection improved appearance is great but now you're talking about doing a 2-step not a 1-step.

If this is just about your own cars, that is you're not detailing for dollars, then sure, apply you're favorite topper and then stick a fork in it and call it done.

Bonding is great topic but so much of the talk about bonding or lack of bonding is speculation, conjecture and/or hypothetical.

I've never seen a coat of wax or sealant slip off the paint and pile up on the floor surrounding the car because it didn't bond.

And most of us on this forum or any forum will tend to renew whatever it is we're putting on our cars for our LSP often enough that lack of longevity due to a bonding issue is a non-issue.


Just some end of the day thoughts....

[Brunkel]

I've never seen a coat of wax or sealant slip off the paint and pile up on the floor surrounding the car because it didn't bond.

And most of us on this forum or any forum will tend to renew whatever it is we're putting on our cars for our LSP often enough that lack of longevity due to a bonding issue is a non-issue.

Thanks, Mike!