Machine polishing paint - It's not that hard and with modern dual action polishers it's real safe!

[Mike Phillips]

I notice you will often demonstrate products on flat panels, due to simplicity, and perhaps as well as some basic principals, and techniques.

You can think of a flat hood or trunk lid to be almost like a "table". It's waist high and that makes it easier to demonstrate and teach correct technique while capturing the technique via video.



But as we all know, virtually no vehicle ever made, even the VW Thing is a simple matter of polishing-waxing this flat panel, then going onto the next flat panel.

There's nooks, there's crannies, there's dips, there's grooves, there's tight spots, there's mirrors, there's gas tank lids, there's sill steps, rocker panels, there's edges, door jambs, license plate pockets, the list goes on and on, and I know we all face these difficult areas on each and every vehicle.

The point, and advice I am trying to get to Mike with this post, is what recommendations, and advice can you give to addressing these areas?

See these two videos...


Video: How to buff tight areas plus concave and convex curved panels by machine


Video: Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels


This is another good one...

Video: How to tape-off car trim before machine polishing

Is there any right method to such hand processes? Straight lines in some areas, small circular movements in others?

See this article,

The Yoda Technique for Buffing out a Car

As I close, thank you Mike! Mark

Thank you... I'm a lucky man in that I have a job I truly love...

[addysdaddy]

...

That said, most detailers should be doing one-step procedures, that is after washing and removing any above surface bonded contaminants, most detailers should be using a one-step cleaner wax. That's the topic of this article I wrote here,

A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business
Match your services to your customer



And there's NOTHING wrong with doing one-steps, in fact it's the right thing to do for must your customers and for most cases it will be more profitable.

So Mike, which would you recommend - a one step with something like KAIO/Opti GPS or a using a light machine polish such as M205/Opti Hyper Polish then going to a WOWA sealant like BF Crystal Seal? I understand that techically the second option is a two step, but...my thinking is that the light machine polish will remove more of the swirls & light scratches then in option 1 and in the end look better with little to no extra time.

[Mike Phillips]

I understand that techically the second option is a two step, but...my thinking is that the light machine polish will remove more of the swirls & light scratches then in option 1 and in the end look better with little to no extra time.

If you do a two step then charge for a two step. Offer your customer 3-4 packages with each package offering more service for more money.

If you customer doesn't want to pay a lot for the job then stick with a one-step and a DA Polisher.


Good question!

[Ohio Detailing]

***Reminder***


Need to update my article list with this thread and about 50 more articles that have not been added to my list yet.

Really getting into the pages of The new Art of Detailing Book Mike, and can't wait to see what new articles you have to post!

[MarkD51]

You can think of a flat hood or trunk lid to be almost like a "table". It's waist high and that makes it easier to demonstrate and teach correct technique while capturing the technique via video.



But as we all know, virtually no vehicle ever made, even the VW Thing is a simple matter of polishing-waxing this flat panel, then going onto the next flat panel.

There's nooks, there's crannies, there's dips, there's grooves, there's tight spots, there's mirrors, there's gas tank lids, there's sill steps, rocker panels, there's edges, door jambs, license plate pockets, the list goes on and on, and I know we all face these difficult areas on each and every vehicle.

The point, and advice I am trying to get to Mike with this post, is what recommendations, and advice can you give to addressing these areas?

See these two videos...


Video: How to buff tight areas plus concave and convex curved panels by machine


Video: Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels


This is another good one...

Video: How to tape-off car trim before machine polishing






See this article,

The Yoda Technique for Buffing out a Car






Thank you... I'm a lucky man in that I have a job I truly love...

Hello Mike, I so much deeply appreciate your personal response about such procedures, and expertise.

I made a little pun the other day, you and I in a Bobby Flay showdown. Of course one big joke from me, that I hope made you and the rest of the seasoned forumites chuckle, as I can clearly recognize that you sir, have forgotten more than I know.

I'm learning again, and as you well know, there's a school, a temple, and it goes by the name of "Hard Knocks". That books, and even your tutuorials can only go so far.

There's "the talk", and then there's "the walk".

I'm new here. But maybe one day I'll earn a little tiny piece of the sidewalk. It takes some more work some more experience under my belt. Otherwise, I'm studying, and I'm listening mostly, and that's the best advice for myself right now!

Thanks again Mike! We are all truly gifted to be graced by your presence here. Mark

[Mike Phillips]

Hello Mike, I so much deeply appreciate your personal response about such procedures, and expertise.

That's my writing style and it reflects my teaching style in person.

I started out like everyone else, that is knowing nothing. When I asked for help and information, I was give BAD information and almost ruined the paint on my custom painted 1948 Plymouth Coupe. Ever since then I NEVER forget my roots and do my best to always help everyone by getting them good information, be it on the forum or in person at a class.

Recently, someone told me "anyone" could run a forum... bring it on... I love competition...

I made a little pun the other day, you and I in a Bobby Flay showdown. Of course one big joke from me, that I hope made you and the rest of the seasoned forumites chuckle, as I can clearly recognize that you sir, have forgotten more than I know.

And I know many guys in this industry that have forgotten more than I'll ever know...

I do make a mean Habanero Hot Sauce though...

I'm learning again, and as you well know, there's a school, a temple, and it goes by the name of "Hard Knocks". That books, and even your tutorials can only go so far.

I'm a former student of the School of Hard Knocks, the goal now days is to avoid making mistakes...

There's "the talk", and then there's "the walk".

And I would add to that there's a way to do both in a professional manner, not something you'll see all the time...

I'm new here. But maybe one day I'll earn a little tiny piece of the sidewalk. It takes some more work some more experience under my belt. Otherwise, I'm studying, and I'm listening mostly, and that's the best advice for myself right now!

For years in the forum world and in the real world I encourage everyone to always be learning, to always be open to new ideas, products, tools, techniques, etc. and I practice what I preach. Always learning...

Thanks again Mike! We are all truly gifted to be graced by your presence here. Mark

That's over the top but thank you. I'm just lucky to have carved out a career doing what I love,

Making cars shiny
Helping others to make cars shiny


Kind of simple but sure keeps me busy...

[Mike Phillips]

***Bump***

Lots of good info, questions, answers and links for anyone new to machine polishing...

[Fishincricket]

***Bump***

Lots of good info, questions, answers and links for anyone new to machine polishing...

Indeed, sir... Indeed!!

[drumer66]

***Bump***

Lots of good info, questions, answers and links for anyone new to machine polishing...

just reading and reading as i try to gather more info/ tips and tricks... unfortunately i am in NJ, and its cold, and snowy... so i have to wait a while till i can get rocking with all my new gear...

i hope it works well, because im slightly concerned about some articles that i read, that indicate that they did everything by the book, (to coin a phrase ) ,, and still the results dont look any better then before they started...

Mike... i recenty purchased over 600 bucks of all types of stuff form AG... i hope things go well... and thanks for responding to some of my earlier posts... i dont know how you find the time to read and respond ...lol...

i have a new 2012 honda ridgeline but i put about 35 k of highway driving on it a year... so it takes a natural beaten... i am anal about cleaning it, and keep up with it rather well, excpet for some small spider webs and minor swils from improper washing and drying...

i do have a question though....i know its said to start and use the least abraisive to start...

i have mostly XMT Products ...


XMT #1,2,3, xmt swirl removal
XMT carnuba finishing glaze
and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant

Im trying to figure out which one to start with....

#2...... or #1 .... I'm guesing #1 should be ok.... then move to the xmt finishing glaze.... then the wolfgang deep gloss spritz sealant ...

my main question is about the spritz.... is this stuff just spay on and wipe off as indicated only?, or can it be polished off with a bonnet for better results ?

thanks for your time..

jim d

[ihaveacamaro]

just reading and reading as i try to gather more info/ tips and tricks... unfortunately i am in NJ, and its cold, and snowy... so i have to wait a while till i can get rocking with all my new gear...

i hope it works well, because im slightly concerned about some articles that i read, that indicate that they did everything by the book, (to coin a phrase ) ,, and still the results dont look any better then before they started...

Mike... i recenty purchased over 600 bucks of all types of stuff form AG... i hope things go well... and thanks for responding to some of my earlier posts... i dont know how you find the time to read and respond ...lol...

i have a new 2012 honda ridgeline but i put about 35 k of highway driving on it a year... so it takes a natural beaten... i am anal about cleaning it, and keep up with it rather well, excpet for some small spider webs and minor swils from improper washing and drying...

i do have a question though....i know its said to start and use the least abraisive to start...

i have mostly XMT Products ...


XMT #1,2,3, xmt swirl removal
XMT carnuba finishing glaze
and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant

Im trying to figure out which one to start with....

#2...... or #1 .... I'm guesing #1 should be ok.... then move to the xmt finishing glaze.... then the wolfgang deep gloss spritz sealant ...

my main question is about the spritz.... is this stuff just spay on and wipe off as indicated only?, or can it be polished off with a bonnet for better results ?

thanks for your time..

jim d

I'm not Mike, but I'm pretty certain what he's going to say.

You asked what polishes to start with. Well the most important thing to do is do a test spot! (Mike would then insert his test spot link here)

Once you are 100% happy with how the results on your test spot look, then you start doing whatever you did to the test spot to the rest of the car.

(Insert other helpful links here, possible picture of page in his book)

The wolfgang spritz is very easy to buff off, and I think you should just do as the directions state which is to apply, spread, buff off, repeat. I'm not sure using a machine would be helpful or even save time to be honest.

(Insert more helpful links)


Roshan