Man some day i hope to reach your level, that paint looks sick... nice work
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Man some day i hope to reach your level, that paint looks sick... nice work
I've noticed a lot of forum members still complain about the griots 3" polisher being underpowered.I was kept from adding one to my arsenal until I had the chance to actually use one. Did it have the power of the 6"Griots machine - no it didn't. But with the guidance of someone with a lot more patience and skill then myself , I learned the proper technique required and was amazed at the results from this machine. I now have this machine and do not regret the purchase at all. A shout out to Nick Chapman for taking the time to school me in a multiple of techniques and putting up with me for the week. :props:
To me the Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher is a MUST HAVE tool.
It's a must-have for any wet sanding project because it's just too good at sanding thin panels, edging and intricate areas. Machine sanding always trumps hand sanding.
It's perfect for machine applying waxes. Again... machine application of a wax or sealant always trumps hand application.
And with good technique, the right pads and products you can use it to remove swirls and scratches, even sanding marks.
We sold one to a local guy here and he uses it to polish thei paint on his Ford T-Bucket.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...odel_T_001.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...odel_T_004.jpg
:)
I know this is an old thread, but I'm curious what compound was used on the roof of the GTO after the 1500 and 3000 grit dampsanding.
With the stroke and orbit of a 3" polisher and trying to damp sand was surprising. Buffers are meant to buff and random orbital sanders to sand or mirror buff. To sand properly with a 3" sander what is needed is a 10,000 rpm sander with a 3/16 orbit tops. Also a soft interface pad. Wet Sanding and Damp Sanding are two entirely different styles. If the disc is not cleaned frequently the sanding residue cakes up quickly on the disc and transfers the residue along as you move the tool forward. This impedes the sanding process. This was evident in all of the photos where I could see the travel of the tool. Additionally overlap by 50% of disc diameter is necessary in a correct pattern which I did not see. I would be doomed from the start if I even tried this. Nuff said
It's been 6 years since I wrote this thread recommending the use of the Griot's 3" polisher to machine wet sand, to be honest I don't remember what was used? Could have been Meguiar's M105 as back in 2011 that was probably the best cutting, nicest finishing compound on the market.
Not sure what to tell you but I've been using and showing the Griot's 3" polisher as a sander for at least 6 years and it ALWAYS works great.
In fact, I can't imagine trying to work in a body shop without it becuase it's SO HANDY for machine sanding next to edges and body lines with precision.
To each their own...
:cheers:
Also just to add...
For people that are new to wetsanding by machine, also called damp sanding, the Griot's 3" sander is a GREAT way to learn becuas it has a small footprint and it's so easy to control. You can often get pad rotation on the 3 to 4 speed setting so there's no reason to push the speed dial all the way up to the 6 setting as that would be grinding, not sanding.
Case in point.... just last week I had a number of guys that had never machine sanded before, possibly never hand sanded before. So I had them learn how to machine sand using ONLY the Griot's 3" polisher.
Full write-up here,
Scuff & Buff - Wet Sanding Single Stage Metallic Paint - 1948 Willys Jeepster
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...epster_011.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...epster_012.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...epster_013.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...epster_014.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...epster_016.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...epster_017.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...epster_018.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...epster_019.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...epster_020.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...epster_021.jpg
:dblthumb2:
Mike.. if you have a proflomiter handy I would like to see the results of depth of scratch with such and aggressive orbit and pad.Then follow with a finer grade. Measure again but this time get the RMS.
My guess is that the scratch would be easier to pull out with the proper 3" DA with a soft interface. The DA properly equipped will leave a much finer scratch thus much easier and quicker on the remaining steps.
Deeper scratches = longer buffing time. If I had a piece of scrap with factory clear coat I would like to test this on my own as well. My 38 years in auto plants throughout the world has to be good for something.LOL!
Also with the coarser scratch I would have to believe that you are removing more clear coat.
But I'm always willing to learn something new.
Interesting topic