3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III

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Originally Posted by TRILLIS

Just wondering does water beading from waxing help to contribute to water spotting,especially if an inferior wax has been used or a previously waxed car is still beading but the wax has lost it's (insert word) over time?

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Actually, anything that causes and increases surface tension causes water to form beads and then if not removed could leave some type of spot on or in the paint depending upon what's in the water.

I worked for Meguiar's during the NXT vs Zaino Wax Wars raged through the forum world and the lesson learned by marketing management was that if a wax doesn't bead water well and for a long time the perception by "people" is the wax isn't protecting the paint or lasting on the surface.

People can talk about products that sheet all day long but common sense goes out the window and these types of products won't sell well because people like to see water beading.

People hate water spotting, but all that is forgotten until it's a problem they have to deal with personally on their car's paint.

The two most common questions I get e-mails about are,

• Water Spots
• DISO

:D

Water spots? - AutogeekOnline Gallery

What kind of water spot is this?

My guess would be Type I...if indeed it is a waterspot.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...waterspot2.png

I see that the Detailer and microfiber towel took away type I wet spots and it didn't work on Type II Water Spots.

What can i do to remove Type II and Type III water spots if a regular car wash / dry , and quick detailer didn't work ?

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Originally Posted by keeganjacobs

I see that the Detailer and microfiber towel took away type I wet spots and it didn't work on Type II Water Spots.

What can i do to remove Type II and Type III water spots if a regular car wash / dry , and quick detailer didn't work ?

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You need to use either a polish or a compound and best results come from machine application.

Most important, find out the root cause of the water spots and avoid whatever it is that's causing them. This mostly applies to people that park next to sprinklers. It doesn't do any good to remove water spots and then park next to a sprinkler again.

Believe it or not, I've met people that couldn't figure that out.


:dunno:

You should write a book. Oh wait, you did!?! And I have a signed copy!

I just encountered some nasty type 2 water spots on an 07 M5 from New York City. I was doing a courtesy detail for friends of mine that own a high performance auto shop (the last shop that had the car had abused it badly so we/they wanted to clean it up for him). I worked with Megs 105 with a 5.5inch yellow CCS on my flex 3401 at speed 6 and it wasn't even getting the job done. Being that it was a "courtesy" detail, we decided to let them be as opposed to wasting time and possibly causing any damage to the paint, so I hit it with Klasse AIO and covered it up with Blackfire Midnight Sun wax, it came out looking fantastic under normal light, but it was still a nightmare (to me) under the high power flourescent lights. Bottom line, the customer was happy that we took care of the car.

But.. the spots are still driving ME crazy. What could I have used or done differently to get these things out?

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Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek

You can burn through with any too and even your hand, it's just a matter of how thick or more specifically, how thin the paint is how aggressive you're getting in your approach and of course how many passes you make.

When you burn through the clear, what you'll see is a dull spot somewhere that you're buffing. As you continue to buff the edges of the spot will start to grow or increase outward from where the initial spot started.

You'll also stat to see color on your pad whereas before you would have only seen the color of the product and the color of the pad.

Type II water spots are a nightmare if they're deep...

Wouldn't it be nice if car manufactures would put more paint on their cars?


:)

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It looks like I have type II water spots on my 2004 Mach 1. Some of them have a dull look to them on the inside of the etching's or "craters". I went to a body shop and they had told me they were acid rain etchings, but I didn't believe them at the time, because they told me they would fix it by giving me a new paint job for $4500. I thought they we playing. I had never seen paint with these etchings on it before, so I came here to discuss the prob with you guys.

Attachment 18611

I enjoy working on my car and would like to buy the tools and materials needed to tackle this myself....BUT, this seems like it might be a bit too much to tackle for a noob at machine detailing.

This link below is a post on my problem with a link to a video of my paint.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...tml#post878940

I would like some advice on a noob tackling this type of water spots. I would purchase the porter cable model for some added protection, of course. But, even with that, is it too much for me to tackle? Thanks

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Originally Posted by Azure

It looks like I have type II water spots on my 2004 Mach 1. Some of them have a dull look to them on the inside of the etching's or "craters".

I went to a body shop and they had told me they were acid rain etchings, but I didn't believe them at the time, because they told me they would fix it by giving me a new paint job for $4500.

I thought they we playing.


I had never seen paint with these etchings on it before, so I came here to discuss the prob with you guys.

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Sorry to say we missed your post to this thread.... where you at with this problem?


:)

Thanks, no change really. I visited a local detail shop last fall and they said they could make it look a bit better, but the larger etches would remain. I have purchased a DA buffer mainly to make polishing easier, but I have yet to buy pads for it.