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  1. #1
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Dampsanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips

    Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips

    This is an article on damp-sanding, which is part of a series of articles on the topic of wet-sanding. Damp-sanding is a variation of wet-sanding except that you work by machine and use dramatically less water.

    Wet-sanding, Color-sanding & Damp-sanding
    First lets start by clarifying some terms as some of you reading this will no doubt already be familiar with some variation of sanding automotive paints and just to note, wet-sand and color-sand, or wet-sanding and color-sanding, are interchangeable terms.

    Color Sanding
    The term color-sanding came from the time cars were primarily painted with single stage paint and as such when you sanded them dry or with water you would see the color of the paint coming off the car, thus the term color-sanding. If you were wet-sanding a pigmented or single stage paint, your water slurry would be the color of the paint.

    Wet Sanding
    Wet-sanding is just a term to describe sanding automotive paints with water. If you're wet-sanding a single stage paint you'll see the color of the paint in your water slurry as you sand. If you're sanding a clear coat finish your water slurry will be a whitish color as the sanded particles of clear paint are not clear but whitish or opaque and thus the water slurry will have a whitish appearances to it.

    Damp Sanding
    Damp-sanding is simply a variation of wet-sanding except that you use less water with sanding discs designed for use with a process that uses less water. The water slurry from damp-sanding will either be whitish if you're sanding a clear coat finish, or the color of the paint if you're sanding a single stage finish.

    Water Slurry
    The water on the surface of your work area that suspends particles of paint removed off the surface from the abrading action of your sanding paper or sanding disc.

    Now onto the article...

    Damp-sanding is a machine sanding technique. Damp-sanding is like wet-sanding only you use a lot less water, basically you use just enough water to maintain lubrication between the paint surface and the face of your sanding or finishing disc. It's important that you maintain the right amount of water because if you use too much water your paper will hydroplane and if you use too little water the face of your sanding disc will load-up and become clogged with paint particles and you'll wear out the abrasives prematurely.

    The difference between Wet-sanding, Color-sanding and Damp-sanding

    Traditionally air-powered sanders called D.A. Sanders are used because they offer speed and power plus they provide a more uniform sanding mark pattern which is important because this helps to make it dramatically easier to remove your sanding mark.

    Another way to damp-sand is using an electric D.A. Polisher. It is important to note that at this time there are no electric polishers or sanders that are approved or recommended for use with water to either wet-sand or damp-sand. The reason for this is there are no electric sanders or polishers that can pass the "Wet Test", this is where a strong spray of water is blasted at the tool from different directions.

    This article does not recommend using an electric polisher to damp-sand, in fact I would recommend using an air-powered D.A. Sander to be on the safe side. That said, I have used an electric polisher many times to damp-sand automotive paints and so far I have never had any issues with shock hazards. I also recommend making peace with your Maker before anytime you'll be using power tools of any type.

    Of course keep in mind damp-sanding is using only a small amount of water from a spray bottle and a lot of common sense. Also anytime you're using any electric tool around water you should always have the tool plugged into a GFI outlet.

    Why sand paint?
    The reason most people would either undertake sanding down the paint on their car or paying someone to sand down the paint on their car is to create a flawless, show car finish. A show car finish is a finish that is completely clear and/or defect free. A show car finish offers excellent depth, clarity, gloss, shine and maximum D.O.I.

    In order to create these characteristics, the paint must be completely flat and free from any orange peel as well as any other above or below surface paint defects. When we use the term flat to describe paint we don't mean as in a matte or low gloss finish, we mean the surface is completely flat like a piece of window glass. When the finish is completely flat, it will reflect crisp, clear images like a mirror with no distortion, this is referred to as D.O.I. or Distinction of Images. To get an automotive finish completely flat or level, the paint is normally sanded flat and then buffed to a high gloss.

    Refinishing Industry vs OEM
    Generally speaking, the majority of all sanding done to automotive paints is done in what is referred to as the Refinishing Industry, that is in layman terms, your local body shop or custom paint shop. OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacture, which in layman terms means car manufacturing plants, the place where new cars, trucks and s.u.v.s are built and assembled and at some point in their assembly... painted.

    Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint
    Throughout this article we will refer to either fresh paint or factory paint.

    • Fresh paint is just that, it's when someone has taken their pride and joy to a body shop, or custom painter and paid to have a custom paint job sprayed onto their car.

    • Factory paint is the paint that came on the car from the factory.
    The primary difference between the two types of paint are,

    • Thickness or thinness of the topcoat
    • Hardness or softness of the topcoat

    Here's an excerpt from another article I've written on the topic of wet-sanding...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
    Wet-sanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint

    Fresh paint sprayed at a local body shop

    Fresh paint will tend to be softer
    Modern basecoat/clearcoat paints are catalyzed, that is they are chemically hardened, a simple analogy would be the way you mix a 2-part epoxy glue together and the resulting product hardens through a chemical reaction. If you've ever worked with fiberglass and polyester resin where a small amount of catalyst, (hardener), is added to the resin and the chemical reaction cause the resin to cure and harden, that's another simple analogy as to how catalyzed basecoat/clearcoat paints are hardened.

    Contrast this to older style paints which were called solvent-evaporation paints in which the paints dried without the use of a catalyzing agent and instead simply dried and hardened over a longer period of time as the solvents mixed into the paint evaporated.

    Even though most modern paints are chemically cured, there is still a window of time where these paint are not 100% hardened and during this window-of-time the paint is what is sometimes refereed to as still wet, not like in wet gooey paint but as in still soft enough to easily sand and buff.

    There are also what are called fast drying, medium drying and slow drying reducers which are solvents for mixing in with the paint to give it a thinner viscosity before spraying. A painter can match their choice of reducer to speed up or slow down the drying time.

    All these factors can affect paint hardness or softness in the first few days that follow after the car leaves the paint booth.

    Usually, if the painters knows the car is to be wet-sanded after painting he can adjust how he mixes the paint to give the person usually called "The Painter's Helper" time to sand and buff the paint before it becomes too hard. Time of year which includes temperature and humidity can also play huge factors in drying or curing time and can be factored in and adjusted for.

    Now here's what's key about this, sanding paint is always easy whether the paint is fresh or baked-on at the factory, in simple terms, (very simple terms for the purpose of explanation), sanding paint is putting scratches into the paint.

    Again... sanding paint is easy, it's the part where you try to remove your sanding marks that can be difficult. The harder the paint the more difficult it will be to buff out your sanding marks. The softer the paint the easier it will be to remove your sanding marks.

    Fresh paint will tend to be thicker
    At the body shop level, again if the painter knows the car is to be sanded and buffed, they'll usually add an extra coat or more of paint, this gives the painter's helper a little more wiggle room to sand and buff and not worry about sanding or buffing through the clear coat and exposing the basecoat.

    I've also met painters that will just spray a thicker or heavier coat and only spray 2 coats of paint but through factors they can control they can spray it on thicker and therefore not have to spray a third or fourth coat.

    Fresh paint will be sprayed on custom projects with more planning and higher expectations.
    If you're having a custom car project painted, for example you spent months and more than likely years rebuilding a classic Mustang and now it's time to get it painted, in most cases you'll be meeting with the painter ahead of time planning out the paint job and it's at this time you discuss with them your expectations. If you want the car sanded flat and then buffed to a high gloss for a true show car finish, (if this is you goal or expectation), then the painter will spray an extra coat or two of paint to provide plenty of film-build for the painter's helper to safely sand the paint flat. They will also build in the cost of the extra materials, (clear paint), time and labor to your bill.

    Fresh paint sprayed at your local body shop, specifically the clear layer, will tend to be thicker than the clear layer that comes from the factory and it will tend to be softer and easier to sand and buff shortly after the car comes out of the paint booth. Because it's thicker there is a little more safety margin or wiggle-room for the person to sand and buff the paint and not break-through the clear layer and expose the basecoat. Because the paint is fresh it's going to be softer than factory baked-on paint, at least for a window of time and this will make buffing out the sanding marks faster and easier.

    Factory baked-on paint

    Factory paint will be harder
    The original paint sprayed onto your car as it traveled down the assembly line at the manufacturer's plant is in most cases baked-on at high temperatures before any wiring or the interior is installed and for this reason higher temperatures can be used since there's nothing to melt of catch on fire in or on the car yet. By the time the car pops-out the end of the assembly line the paint is fully cured and hardened. For this reason it will still be easy to sand, (that's putting scratches into the paint), but it will be more difficult to remove your sanding marks out of the paint.

    Factory paint will be thinner
    At the factory, the paining process is very automated and the amount of clear paint applied to the vehicle is done so in a tightly controlled manner and to very stringent specifications. You don't have the ability to ask for an extra coat of clear, or for a thicker coat of paint to be sprayed and from a materials cost point of view, it's probably safe to say that the amount of paint used to coat each car trends towards being the minimum amount, not a generous amount. Simply put, factory clear coat paints tend to be very thin compared to what you can get at your local body shop.

    Factory paint will tend to be hard and thin, it will be easy to sand but more difficult to remove your sanding marks out 100%

    Factory paint will be thin and if you're not really careful you'll break-through the clear layer and expose the basecoat or color coat either during the sanding process or the ensuing buffing process as both procedures remove a little paint.

    Damp-sanding Fresh Paint
    In a body shop situation in most cases when the painter knows the car will be sanded for a show car finish then they will spray extra clear, (or extra paint in the case of a single stage finish), onto the car to provide more material or film-build for sanding and buffing. For these situations, you can start with the more aggressive 1500 Sanding Discs to level orange peel and remove surface texture.

    Most sanding for a custom paint job is done while the paint is still soft or fresh, that is within days of the car being moved out of the paint booth, thus the term fresh paint.

    Damp-sanding Factory Paint
    Because the factory finish on new cars, truck and s.u.v.s are thin, sanding and compounding should only be used to correct serious below surface defects as an option and if you have confidence the paint has not been sanded or compounded previously and of course, confidence in your skills and abilities.

    Enables you to buff cooler
    The theory behind using Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding and Finishing discs to sand thin, factory paint is that while it adds a step in most detailing processes, it saves time overall because it enables you to remove the defects faster by requiring less passes with your rotary buffer and aggressive compounds. This reduces heat, enabling you to buff cooler and can also help to reduce deep swirls.

    More Control
    Without sanding, you don't know how deep the defects are so you don't know how aggressive you need to get in order to remove them, the only way to find out is by trial and error. With Unigrit Sanding and Finishing Discs, you have control over the depth of the sanding marks thus you have more control over the compounding step.

    Keep in mind that all the UV protection for the basecoat is suspended in the clear coat or clear layer of paint sprayed over the basecoat or colored layer paint. You need approximately 1.3 mils of clear to provide enough UV protection to protect the color coat from failing. New cars come with approximately 2.0 mils of clear paint so you have a little wiggle room for sanding and buffing but always follow the practice of,

    "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

    Damp-sanding factory paint usually mans sanding on very hard paint because the paint was baked-on at high temperatures at the manufacturing plant and is no longer fresh and could be anywhere from months to years to decades old. This means the paint is fully cured, fully dried and fully hardened.

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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  2. #2
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


    Tools Needed
    First lets take a look at the tools you'll need to damp-sand and we'll go over some tips and techniques for damp-sanding.

    Air Powered DA Sander
    3/32" Orbit = Finishing Sander
    3/16" Orbit = Aggressive Sander
    For removing Orange Peel, Surface Texture and other defects, historically a 3/32" or 3/16" air-powered dual action sander is recommended. New sanding discs are now available that are designed for larger orbits like you find with electric D.A. Sanders.

    Note: Air Powered DA Sanders require a large air compressor in order to supply them with a constant feed of high volume compressed air. Small, household and mobile units cannot keep up with the demand required to sand down entire panels/cars.

    3M Random Orbital 6 Inch Air Sander 20325

    The #20325 3M Orbital Sander comes with a 6" backing plate for use with 3M Stickit brand adhesive backed sanding papers. To use it with either Meguiar's or 3M hook-n-loop sanding discs you need to get either the matching 3M Hookit Backing Plate or you can also use the Meguiar's Backing Plate.

    3M Hookit Backing Plate

    Attach and tighten till snug using the wrench that comes with the 3M Orbital Sander

    If you want a less aggressive cut or some cushion for curved panels, then use the 3M Hookit 6" Soft Interface Pad #05777

    Select the level of cut you want and attach the sanding disc to the interface pad...

    Optional - Electric D.A. Polisher

    5/16" Orbit = Aggressive Sander
    Meguiar's G100 G110 G110v2 G220 G220v2

    Mike's comment...

    One difference between sanding with an air-powered tool and an electric tool is the difference in power supply from a physical point of view. What I mean by this is that with an air-powered DA Sander you will have to contend with an air-line under pressure which is quite stiff. When sanding with an air-powered DA Sander you need to control the air-line in a way that it doesn't rub against the painted panels of the vehicle and also that it doesn't control or influence the angle of contact between the face of your sanding disc and the painted panel.

    By this I mean because the air-line is stiff, you have to concentrate more on keeping the face of the disc flat against the paint as it's possible for the air-line to exert pressure in such a way as to lift up or push down, or to either side, the DA Sander as it's in your hand.

    Note how Shawn has the air-line draped over his shoulder and then curved to his side before feeding into the back of the DA Sander in this picture. While this air line looks flexible, under pressure it is quite stiff and requires you to take that into account for your grip and your arm movement as you're sanding.

    This stiff air-line issue is avoided when using an electric DA Sander/Polisher because your electrical cord is limp in that it is not under high air pressure.

    CFM or Cubic Feet per Minute
    In order to use an air-powered DA sander you also need a continuous feed supply of compressed air rated at 90 PSI at the gauge. The larger the holding tank the better, for example if you want to sand down entire cars you should have a 60 to 80 gallon compressed air reservoir tank minimum. You can use small portable air compressors for small sections but trying to sand down the average size car hood will deplete the air out of the tank, force the compressor motor to run full speed to try to keep up and still won't be able to keep up and this will show up as your air sander slowing down and even stopping.

    The benefit to an electric DA is that all you need is a stable source of electric power and a GFI outlet for safety reasons.

    Note that if you ever use an extension cord with your electric DA or any electric power tool you should always use a heavy duty cord with 16 gauge wire or thicker to handle the flow of electricity to avoid burning up the electric motor in your tool.

    Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding Discs - 6"

    Meguiar's Sanding Backing Plate #S6BP 6 inch
    Back side

    Working face side

    Meguiar's Foam Interface Pad #S6FI 6 inch
    Back side

    Working face side

    Approximately 1/2" thick

    The backing plate attaches to the Free Floating Spindle Assembly

    If you choose to use the interface pad, the "M" logo attaches to the face of the backing plate. The "M" side of the Interface pad has the "loop" material while the face of the backing plate has the "hook" material.

    The loop backing on the back of the sanding disc attaches to the hooks on the face of either the interface pad or the backing plate.

    The 6" sanding discs can also be used by hand using the Meguiar's 6" Hand Pad

    Paint Thickness Gauge - Optional but a good idea

    A good quality PTG or Paint Thickness Gauge will tell you how thick the paint is on the car you are contemplating sanding. The strongest benefit of a PTG is to provide to you a reading which will be your indicator as to whether to proceed with sanding the paint.

    Most PTG's measure total film build, this means you are not going to get an accurate measurement as to the actual thickness of the topcoat of paint whether it's a basecoat/clearcoat finish or a single stage finish, thus the use of the word indicator.

    Most factory basecoat/clearcoat finishes have a clearcoat layer that measures 2.0 mils and it is suggested that you need a minimum of 1.5 mils of clear to provide enough material and enough UV protection to enable the basecoat to endure over the service life of the car with good, regular maintenance. This means you can safely remove approximately .5 mils off a factory finish and still have the minimum amount of clear paint left on the car for extended longevity.

    While sanding factory finishes can be done, I personally don't recommend it because there's just too much room for error during the sanding and buffing process to make a mistake and accidentally remove too much material.

    "Burn Through" or "Strike Through"

    Basecoat/Clearcoat Finish
    When you remove too much material on a basecoat/clearcoat finish you will expose the basecoat and in most cases the basecoat is dull. The only way to undo the damage is to repaint the affected area or the entire panel with new paint.

    Single Stage Finish
    When you remove too much material on a single stage paint you will expose the primer under the color coat. The only way to undo the damage is to repaint the affected area or the entire panel with new paint.
    If sanding factory paint is risky, why write an article explaining how to do it?
    The purpose of this article is not to endorse or promote the sanding of factory finishes but to provide an outline as to how to damp-sand paint be it a factory finish or a customer paint job should a person choose to undertake such a project.

    My experience from years of detailing cars and now years of posting to detailing discussion forums on the topic of detailing cars has shown me that if it can be done, it will be done and for those that will be undertaking this procedure this is an outline to help you do the job right and avoid some of the risks involved. Also keep in mind while the topic of wet-sanding a car or damp-sanding a car conjures up mental pictures of sanding down and entire car, there are plenty of instances where a person is only going to sand a specific panel, for example the hood and just by reason of reducing total areas sanded you reduce risk to the car at the same time.

    Anyone sanding any paint job after reading this article will be responsible on their own for any problems or mistakes made. This how-to article is for reference only, it is not any kind of guarantee or insurance that another person can safely sand and then buff out any paint job successfully.

    I personally only accept projects that include custom paint jobs and I don't and won't accept projects where the customer wants a factory finish sanded and buffed. I know of Pro Detailers that will accept projects that include sanding factory paint and can put you in contact with these individuals if you're looking for this kind of work for your car projects.

    For more information on sanding factory finishes, click the below link to read the below article in its entirety...

    Wet-sanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint

    Other tools needed,

    High quality microfiber towels
    Microfiber towels are more gentle to the finish then most other commonly available wiping cloths. As you work through the process of sanding and then buffing, polishing and even waxing or sealing the paint, you'll want to increase the quality of ANYTHING that touching the paint to avoid instilling any swirls, scratches or toweling marks. This is vitally important when you reach the final machine polishing steps and any steps where you're removing any finishing waxes or paint sealants.

    Terry cloth towels
    Optional: these can be used to remove water slurry and compounding residue but after the compounding step you should switch over to microfiber towels as they are more gentle to the finish than most cotton towels.

    Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light
    The Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light will help you to see if you are removing all of your sanding marks and also all of your swirls after the compounding steps using a rotary buffer.

    Isopropyl Alcohol or Mineral Spirits
    It's possible for fine or shallow scratches or swirls t be filled-in and masked by compounding and polishing residue after wipe-off, to ensure that all sanding marks and swirls have been 100% removed a common procedure is to wipe the surface with either Isopropyl Alcohol or Mineral Spirits as these two solvents will effectively strip the surface to enable you to see the true status of the paint at the surface level.

    The Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light is commonly used in conjunction with either IPA or MS to inspect for full removal of sanding marks and/or swirls.

    Painter's Tape
    You'll want a variety of widths and types of painter's tape to tape-off and cover edges, body lines, trim and other areas or components to protect them from being sanded on, compounded or splattered with sanding or compounding residue.

    Spray Bottle
    A known clean spray bottle for holding clean water.

    Wheel covers or Wheel Maskers
    These are used to cover and protect wheels and tires from spatter from either your sanding process or any of the machine buffing procedures.

    Soft Flannel Bedsheet
    I use these to cover and protect engines and engine compartments. Often times custom cars have highly detailed engines and engine compartments with lots of polished aluminum, chrome or paint work. Engines and engine compartments can be difficult and time consuming to detail if they are accidentally splattered with sanding or compounding residue. It's much faster, safer and profitable to cover an engine and engine compartment than it is to later try to wipe it clean. You could also use plastic drop cloths like Painter's use available at most hardware supply stores.

    Plastic Drop Cloths
    These are optional but are a great, inexpensive way to cove-up a larger area to protect it from spatter.

    Pad Cleaner
    A pad cleaner is a device that will remove buffing compound and paint off the face of your buffing pad enabling you to work clean and avoid swirls. As you compound the compound you're using will be come spent or used-up and particles of paint will be coming off the car as you abrade it with the compound, both of these substances will build up on the face of your pad and a pad washer will remove this residue by washing and extracting via the pad washer.

    A spur can be used instead of a pad washer or together with a pad washer to clean wool compounding pads. I personally use both a pad washer to clean my pad first and then afterwards use a Spur to further clean and fluff the fibers of the wool pad.

    Safety Glasses
    Kind of speaks for itself...

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
    Mike Phillips Facebook Page
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  3. #3
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


    For sanding thin panels, there's also a 3" Unigrit System available for damp-sanding.

    Meguiar's 3 Inch Professional Headlight & Spot Repair Kit
    Kit includes:
    1 Pneumatic Mini DA Sander
    1 Pneumatic Mini Rotary Polisher
    50 S3320 Unigrit 320 Grit Sanding Discs
    50 S3500 Unigrit 500 Grit Sanding Discs
    50 S3800 Unigrit 800 Grit Sanding Discs
    15 S3F1000 Unigrit 1000 Grit Finishing Discs
    25 S31500 Unigrit 1500 Grit Sanding Discs
    15 S3F3000 Unigrit 3000 Grit Finishing Discs
    1 S3FIS Unigrit Foam Interface
    2 W4003 3” “Easy Buff” Knitted Wool Pads
    2 W7204 4” Soft Buff Foam Cutting Pads
    2 W8204 4” Soft Buff Foam Polishing Pads
    2 W9204 4’ Soft Buff Foam Finishing Pads
    2 S3BP 3” Professional Backing Pads and Adaptor Kits
    1 S3HP 3” Professional Hand Pad - 1 ea
    1 W63 3” Professional Rotary Backing Plate
    1 T18MM Professional Masking Tape .75in
    1 8 oz. Meguiars 105 Ultra-Cut Compound
    1 8 oz. Meguiars 205 Ultra Finishing Polish
    1 Meguiar’s Black Canvas Bag
    1 Professional Headlight and Spot Repair Chart
    This is a very complete kit with everything you need to refinish headlights that have deteriorated to the point where only sanding can save them and/or for doing spot sanding or spot damp-sanding to remove isolated defects out of fresh paint or factory paint.

    After opening the box you'll find a soft case that hold everything inside with extra pockets on the outside for other tools or accessories...

    Here I've spread everything out to show the complete selection of products found in the kit...

    There are two backing plates with 4 different adapters which enables you to attach the backing plate to just about every known thread size used for small air tools.

    The kit comes with 2 Chicago Pneumatic Air Tools, one is a Mini Dual Action Sander and the other is a Mini Rotary Polisher and both are clearly marked on the outside housing.

    The Mini Dual Action Sander
    After determining the correct adapter for sander you rotate the black hub until you see a hole align with the cutout on the exterior casing.

    The kit comes with a wrench and a dowel type rod with a handle.

    Place the steel shaft of the dowel through the cutout to pin the rotating assembly against the housing, this will enable you to attach the backing plate and tighten the backing plate to the rotating assembly.

    Now you're ready to attach the foam interface pad...

    The Meguiar's 3 inch Spot Repair Kit uses hook and loop style interface, so align the loop side of the interface pad, (the side with the "M" on it), and attach to the hook side of the face of the backing plate and do your best to align so it's centered or true.

    Next select the grade of Unigrit Disc you want to use and align it to the interface and press on firmly.

    Here's the sander with interface and Unigrit sanding disc attached...

    You're ready to go to work...

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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  4. #4
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


    The Mini Rotary Polisher

    The rotary polisher comes with a wrench to hold the spindle assembly.

    After selecting the appropriate adapter for your tool, affix it to the backing plate first making sure the washer is between the backing plate and the adapter and then thread into the spindle assembly and tighten down a 1/4 turn after snug.

    Select the right buffing pad for the task at hand and then align the backing plate to the hook and loop interface and press firmly.

    You're ready to start polishing...

    The kit also comes with a hand backing pad for working by hand...

    And also a 3" rotary backing plate...

    There are two 10 ounce bottles of M105 and M205...

    Everything you need for professional results...

    A fold out poster is included that shows step-by-step procedures...

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
    Mike Phillips Facebook Page
    Mike Phillips Detail Files YouTube Playlist
    Sign-up for Mike's Tips & Techniques Newsletter

  5. #5
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


    How-To Damp-sand

    Here are the basic techniques for damp-sanding using an air-powered DA Sander, these techniques can also be used with an electric D.A. Polisher but use an electric tool at your own risk.

    Wash the vehicle to remove loose surface dirt
    Wash car to remove all loose surface dirt off the paint and out of any cracks, crevices, body seams and trim. It is vitally important that the vehicle is surgically clean before sanding because if any abrasive particulate enters the sanding process and is trapped between your sanding disc and the paint finish it will instill what are referred to as pigtails.

    Pigtails - Photo courtesy of Mister B
    Pigtails are deeper circular scratches that look somewhat like a curled pig's tail thus the name. Typically what happens is an abrasive particle gets trapped between the paint and the face of your sanding disc and because the backing plate that holds the sandpaper is moving in an oscillating fashion, it grinds the abrasive particle into the paint in a curly pattern that looks somewhat like the tail on a pig, thus the name.


    Use Detailing Clay to remove Above Surface Bonded Contaminants
    After washing or wiping the car clean, use detailing clay to remove any Above Surface Bonded Contaminants. This is especially important if you're working on any car that's been put back into use as a daily driver because it can pick up air-borne contaminants from just about anywhere and you don't want any particulates bonded to the paint coming off while you're sanding so remove them first with detailing clay.

    When I damp-sanded the 1969 El Camino of which some of the pictures from that project are used in this article, after wiping the El Camino clean I clayed all the painted body panels, (and the glass while I was at it), and even though this car is part of a collection of street rods and parked inside all the time it's not being driven, below is a picture of the detailing clay patty I used after ONLY claying the hood on this car.

    Detailing Clay after claying ONLY the hood of the 1969 El Camino in this article

    For a car parked inside, with a relatively new, custom paint job there was a lot of built-up contaminants on the finish that would have come off and onto the sanding discs reducing their working life and possibly causing pigtails.

    Make it a "Best Practice" to always clay any paint before sanding. Even if you cannot feel any contamination on the surface with your bare hand or via the "Baggie Test", it doesn't take long and it's cheap insurance against other potential problems.

    If you're reading this and you don't know how to clay paint, you can learn how by watching this video...

    How To Use Detailing Clay - Part 1

    How To Use Detailing Clay - Part 2

    Chemically Strip Paint
    Chemically stripping the paint will remove waxes, paint sealants, silicones, polymers and any other substance off the finish that washing will not remove and was not removed by the claying process. Detailing clay will actually remove a lot of any substances bonded to the upper surface of the paint, including waxes and paint sealants, but under a microscope paint is not completely flat, it's made up of hills and valleys, pockets and pores, surface imperfections and interstices.

    Interstices = Microscopic cracks and fissures.

    Remember, a lot of modern car wax and paint sealant products are detergent resistant so washing won't alway remove 100% of any previously applied wax or paint sealant coating.

    Important: You don’t want any chemical substance bonded onto the surface to come off while sanding as it can interfere with the cutting process, load up on the face of our sanding disc and cause your disc to wear-out prematurely.

    Common products for chemically stripping the finish include Prep-All, Orderless Mineral Spirits, Automotive All Purpose Cleaners, Isopropyl Alcohol.

    You can dampen a microfiber towel and wipe the surface clean or use a spray bottle with a chemical resistant spray head to spray directly onto the surface and then wipe the paint dry using clean microfiber towels.

    Safety Precautions with an air-powered DA Sander
    Always wear eye protection and ear protection.

    Safety Precautions with Electric DA Sander/Polishers
    If using an electric DA Polisher make sure you have access to a GFI Outlet. A GFI or Ground Fault Interrupter will stop the flow of electricity if it detects a leakage or short in the normal circuit or flow of current.

    GFI Outlet

    And always wear eye protection and ear protection when using any power tool.

    Work Area Size? - 2" x 2" or smaller
    In the real world, you would slice up the car panel by panel and then slice up the panel to section usually no larger than about 20” squarish or so. This is not a hard and fast rule because not all panels are square and flat, in fact since the 1980’s most car bodies incorporate aerodynamics designs and are very rounded and curvy.

    Why you don't want to tackle too large an area at one time...
    Regardless of the shape of the panel, the reason you don't want to tackle too large of an area at one time is because you have better control over downward pressure when the sander is near your body. The further you reach out away from your body the more likely you'll change the downward pressure and possibly tilt the polisher potentially causing more pressure to and edge on the face of your sanding disc and this can cause gouging or deeper scratches in the paint.

    The width of your shoulders is a pretty good measurement for as large of a dimension as you would ever want to tackle on a surface. My shoulders measure approximately 20" wide so I would only want to tackle a section 20" squarish or smaller, not larger.

    Water Volume?
    Damp-sanding is using only a few mists of water. Meguiar’s new Unigrit Sanding and Finishing Discs MUST be used wet but not over-wet. All you need is a mist or two of clear water to the face of the pad and a few mists of water to the surface to be sanded. Damp-sanding should not be a wet-mess on the car, or on the ground surrounding the car.

    • Too much water will hyper-lubricate the surface and reduce cutting action.

    • Too little water will increase cutting, clog disc and wear disc out prematurely.

    Unigrit Sanding and Finishing Discs are always used wet. Use water only - no sanding lube (soap).

    Use a clean water source - no soap or sanding lube

    It's safer to error on the side of caution and use an extra mist or two of water until you get a feel for the right balance for your environmental conditions. Temperature, humidity, airflow, affect all machine sanding process including the Unigrit Sanding System so there can be no hard and fast recommendations. Practice makes perfect.

    It's vitally important that you stay focused on the amount of water you're using when damp-sanding because if you use too much water and your disc hydroplanes, you can mis-read this to mean the disc is spent of used-up and no longer cutting.

    If the disc is in fact still good and you throw it away because you used too much water then you waste a good disc and these are not inexpensive.

    Remember, it's not wet sanding it’s damp-sanding
    I took the below picture after completely sanding down a 1969 El Camino. Note the water level in the clear spray bottle.

    Only 16 ounces of water used to sand an entire 1969 El Camino

    This is a 32 ounce spray bottle and I never refilled it during the sanding process, this means I used approximately 16 ounces of water to sand down a full size, domestic vehicle.

    Downward Pressure?
    Light Pressure. When machine sanding you only need to use the weight of the machine and whatever more pressure it takes to keep the pad flat to the surface with no hopping or skipping. It’s vitally important to maintain disc rotation so you don't want to use too low of a speed setting.

    Tool Speed Setting?
    Fast. With an air powered D.A. Sander you're going to be on 3/4 to full throttle With a Meguiar's electric polisher you’re going to use the 3.0 to 6.0 speed setting depending upon whether you're sanding a flat surface or a curved surface. It's safer to turn the speed down anytime you're sanding small curved areas or hard to reach areas.

    You can see the Throttle next to my thumb on the underside of this 3M Air-Powered DA Sander

    Air Pressure or PSI
    Before using an air powered DA Sander check to see what the tool manufacture recommends for Maximum PSI or PSIG.

    PSI = Pounds per square inch
    PSIG - Pounds per square inch at the gauge

    I think the main difference between PSI and PSIG is that PSI is not specific to the point of connection for the tool and could mean compressed air pressure at the tank and not the actual gauge and thus the air line feeding your tool. That means there can be differences in PSI by the time it gets to your tool depending upon the shop you work in and how many lines are being fed by the air tank/compressor. The important point is to make sure you don't starve your air tool for compressed air and you don't over feed the tool with too much air pressure.

    The 3M DA Sander shown in this article states to not exceed 90 PSI

    The air regulator for use in our shop is usually set to around 110 PSI so when I want to use the air compressor I have to decrease the pressure coming out of the line by adjusting the regulator down to 90 PSI

    Sanding Pattern?

    Cross Hatch Pattern --> UMR = Uniform Material Removal.

    The goal when sanding is to remove the defects while removing as little paint or topcoat material as possible. Of course the reason for this is to leave as much paint on the car to last over the service life of the car. So your specific goal is to only sand enough to remove the defects and then STOP. The only way you will know how much sanding is required to remove the defects is by testing each paint system you work on and getting a feel for how many passes it takes to remove the defects you're going after.

    Because topcoat hardness is a variable you cannot control, you must do a Test Spot on each new car you work on to figure out how easily or difficult the paint is sanding to remove enough material to reach your goal.

    Cross Hatch Pattern
    Sanding back in forth in a straight line with a DA Sander creates the potential to remove material unevenly if you're not very careful. Adding a second direction will help insure the surface remains flat with no low/high troughs or valleys running a dedicated direction in the panel. A cross hatch pattern helps to ensure uniform material removal over an entire panel.

    Of course the shape of some panels will not lend themselves to sanding in a cross hatch pattern and you will be limited to only sanding in one direction. For panels such as these be sure to overlap your passes by 50%

    Pre-determined pattern = Easy to duplicate and less thinking required
    The benefit to using a cross hatch pattern is that it's easy to remember and thus easy to duplicate over and over again for production sanding work. Feel free to come up with your own system that suits your goals best, these are just my recommendations as to what works best for me. If you have employees, you always want to make procedures they will do over and over again easy to learn and repeat for fewer mistakes.

    Arm Speed?
    Use a rapid arm speed when machine sanding.

    Unigrit discs are designed to cut fast and cut for a long time with light pressure and a fast arm speed. Moving the sander/polisher too slowly will cause the abrasives to cut too deeply and will wear the disc out prematurely. There’s a learning curve to every process and that includes machine sanding with these new Unigrit Sanding Discs and you’re better to error on the side of caution by using too fast of an arm speed versus too slow.

    When first starting out, stop often and check your results.


    This is key remember… BITE which stands for Break-In Time Efficiency

    New discs SKIM the surface until they break-in. A brand new disc requires anywhere from 2-4 passes to break-in before maximum cutting efficiency is reached. This has to do with physical process taking place on the surface of the paint and a physical process taking place on the surface of the paper.

    Top coat hardness is a huge factor and unknown variable between cars and effects how fast or how slow a disc will break-in. During the manufacturing process, the Unigrit abrasive particles are embodied in a slurry which hardens into a solid medium and this medium offers a controlled rate of break-down.

    Efficient cutting is seen when the water slurry on the surface is whitish in color. This is an indicator of clear paint particles suspended in the water film on the surface.

    During break-in, the disc goes from skimming to biting or abrading... your job?

    Pay attention to the task at hand.

    This circles back to monitoring how much water you're using because a lack of whitish appearance to the water could mean the disc is either,
    • Not broken in yet
    • Too much water on the surface resulting in hydroplaning
    • The disc is spent or used-up, that is the majority of abrasives have been worn off the face of the disc

    The appearance for all three of the above is clear water on the surface, so pay attention to the amount of water on the surface and how much area you've used each disc to sand and the concentration or lack thereof of the whitish appearance to the lubricating water.

    Number of passes?
    When sanding with the Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding Discs, after the initial break-in of the disc, sand for 2-4 Section Passes and then inspect.

    The definition of a pass
    There are two definitions of the word pass as it relates to machine polishing with any type of machine. We can apply this to machine sanding as well.
    Single Pass
    A single pass is just that. It's when you move the tool from one side of the section you're sanding to the other side of the section you're sanding. That's a single pass.

    Section Pass
    A section pass is when you move the tool back and forth, or front to back with enough single overlapping passes to cover the entire section one time. That's a section pass.

    Taping-Off, Covering Up and Removing Trim
    As a rule, it's a good idea to tape-off any raised hard body line for two reasons,

    1. So you don't sand over the high points
    2. Simply so you can see where they risky areas are at on a panel

    1. So you don't sand over the high points
    Paint will tend to be thinnest on any high point as the forces of gravity will cause the paint when it's sprayed and thus a liquid to flow downward. It only takes a few seconds of sanding on any high point, edge, corner or raised body line to either sand through the topcoat or remove enough material that when you later compound the area you go through the topcoat while compounding. So taping off high points will save you from having to repaint a panel.

    2. So you can see where they risky areas are at on a panel
    This one might sound kind of dumb if you've never sanded down an entire car before so let me share with you why it's important. As you're sanding, you'll create a white slurry on the panel that you can't see through. This slurry is made up of particles of paint you've removed off the topcoat, mixed with water. As it covers the panel it hides or camouflages everything under it including a high point or raised body line. By placing some tape over the area you want to avoid you create a visual indicator or reminder of where not to sand.

    Here you can see where I've taped-off the edge of the gas tank door and the sheet metal surrounding the opening for the gas tank door. This will protect the edges while sanding and compounding.

    Body lines taped-off

    If you look carefully you can see some thin tape lines running down the center of the hood and the middle of each half-sections of the hood, these are raised body lines as a part of the styling of the hood. They are not very high off the surface and when sanding, the entire area will become white with water slurry. By taping them off I could see where they were at and if I accidentally run the sander too close to them, no worries...

    Thin tape on top of raised body lines on the hood

    Grills and Vents
    It's nearly impossible to get under the fresh air grill on late model cars to remove splatter residue so I always carefully tape them off. Sad to say but whoever sanded and buffed this car before me plastered the area under the tape you see here and there's no practical safe way to remove it so it will forever be an eyesore when the owner shows this El Camino

    Fresh Air Grills Taped-off

    Here you can see where I've taped-off any edge I didn't want to risk sanding over... and it's not that I'm not good at what I do it's because the next paint job I buy is going to be for me.

    Also tape off any trim you cannot or will not remove, especially plastic, rubber or felt trim and gaskets. This goes without saying but just to say it or type it, the reason you do this is so you don't damage the material while sanding and buffing and so you don't cream it over with compound or polish residue which later can be a nightmare to remover and cause the owner of the project vehicle to use your name as a curse word the rest of your life.

    On classic cars, trim, script and emblems can be very fragile, especially the studs and nuts that hold them to a panel. What I personally like to do is point this out to the owner of the car and ask if they can and are willing to remove them so I can do a better job of sanding and buffing out their car. If they say "yes", this puts the responsibility on them for any damage caused by removal.

    The good news is that often times owners of special interest and classic cars will already be very familiar with these items and understand the risk and in some cases be very proficient at their removal since they are more intimate with their car than you are.

    If the owner cannot or will not remove trim, script or emblems then you can opt to remove them yourself as carefully as possible and/or tape or cover them up.

    Covering up
    I like to cover up the engine on special interest cars and especially show cars or restored cars where the engine and engine compartment are clean enough to eat off of. The reason for this is because it's all to easy for stray splatter from either wet-sanding or machine compounding and polishing to spray onto the engine and engine compartment and cleaning these areas can be difficult and very time consuming.

    Here's a video I made a number of years ago that explains why to cover an engine and shows my method of using a clean, soft flannel bedsheet to carefully cover and protect the engine. You can also do this for trunks and interiors if you're working on a convertible with the top down or off the car.

    Covering the motor on the Panic Parrot

    To tape-off and cover areas and items on a car you'll need things like a good selection of Painter's Tape.

    Also I like to have 2 mill Plastic Painter's drop cloths on hand, tin foil, and even a Beach Towel to cover up windshields and wiper assemblies in one fell swoop.

    Canvas Wheel Covers

    Wheel Covers make fast work of covering and protecting custom wheels and tires, don't kid yourself, wiping off any splatter from a well dressed tire or an intricate wheel design will be time consuming and not very much fun. Besides Canvas Wheel Covers like body shops use I've also used large Glad Garbage bags, like the kind you get for leafs and yard debris, you can slit them on one side and then slide them over the wheel and tire and tape back any loose plastic. I've also used newspaper to create a makeshift cover with tape as seen here,

    Whatever it takes to keep the tire and wheel clean and keep me from having to wipe off any stray splatter is my personal goal. I love polishing paint but I hate detailing cars. (See the link below to see what that means)

    "Polishing paint is polishing paint, detailing is getting the wax out of the cracks"

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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    Re: Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


    Putting it all together...
    Here's the car before we started... this is a restored and mild hotrod 1969 El Camino with a custom basecoat/clearcoat finish. The fit and finish of the panels is excellent and the paint application came out very nice, there are a few leftover sanding marks in the paint and rotary buffer swirls including arc scratches probably from an abrasive particle being trapped between the pad and the paint. Our goal is to remove all the below surface defects and restore a true show car shine.

    We moved the car out into the sun where the bright overhead sunlight can reveal the true condition of the paint.

    Back into the garage to work out of direct sunlight...

    Completely Damp-sanded
    The white stuff for anyone reading this wondering what that is, that is clear coat paint that has been sanded off and was in the water film on the panel. After the water evaporates off it leaves the clear coat residue which after being abraded is whitish.

    This is where a hydraulic floor lift is a real asset, but what I alway teach in our classes is,

    If you can't bring the car up to you... bring yourself down to the car...

    The polished section in the center is where we shot the how-to video

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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    Re: Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


    After sanding, the paint was put through a series of machine polishing steps to remove the sanding marks and restore a show car shine...

    Compounding - Makita 9207 Rotary Buffer, Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer, M105, W-5000 Double Sided Wool Cutting Pad, W-7204 4" Inch Foam Cutting Pads.

    Polishing - Makita 9207 Rotary Buffer, M205, W-8207 Foam Polishing Pad.

    Checking my work each step of the way by wiping with Mineral Spirits and using the Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light to insure no sanding marks were missed and no swirls were left behind.

    For really low panels, if you hold the light down low and at just the right angle it will shine just right to show the "surface" condition of the paint, this is the area you want to be looking at when inspecting. The part of the light I'm using in these shots is the small lit up area that's is the reflection of the bulb in the paint, not the large blown out area lit up by the light.

    After Shots - This is after all the rotary buffer steps...

    Polishing - G110v2 DA Polisher, M205, W-9207

    Sealing - G110v2, W-9207, M21 Synthetic Paint Sealant
    I followed this with a machine applied application of M21 Synthetic Paint Sealant, for this used the Meguiar's G110v2 with another W9207 Foam Finishing pad on the 3.0 Speed Setting.

    UNLIKE removing swirls with a DA Polisher where you only want to work a small section at a time, (about 20" squarish or so), if you've removed all the below surface defects and now you're just applying a wax or paint sealant, you can work a section as far as you can reach as long as you have ample product to spread out. For the hood of this El Camino I can easily reach and work on half of the hood so I use enough wax to coat over half of the hood and move the pad over each square inch at least 2-3 passes to sufficiently work the sealant over and into, (to whatever level possible), the paint.

    I use the "Kissing the Finish" technique when machine applying a liquid wax or paint sealant.

    Kissing the Finish
    Kissing the finish is where you first apply some wax or paint sealant to the face of the pad, then touch down just an edge of the face of the foam pad and deposit a little of the wax to a portion of the panel you're working on.

    Shake shake shake... a small circle of product onto the face of the pad

    Touch the pad down at different angles to deposit some of the wax you applied onto the face of the pad onto the paint...

    Then after you've Kissed the Finish in a few places, take what's left and place the face of the foam pad against the paint and THEN turn the polisher on and begin making overlapping passes over the paint.

    As I come up to a dab of wax from where I "Kissed the Finish" with my pad, I tilt the polisher, lifting the leading edge of the pad but maintaining constant contact with the trailing edge of the pad and then run the pad over the dab of wax and then immediately lay the pad flat again and then work new territory with this new dab of wax.

    Tilt the polisher a little to lift the leading edge of the pad...

    Then lay the pad flat and begin working the wax or in this case a synthetic paint sealant over the paint.

    For more tips on how to apply wax by machine see this article,
    Tips and Techniques for using a DA Polisher

    A thin coat of M21 Synthetic Sealant drying

    After carefully wiping off M21 by hand using clean, soft microfiber towels

    A few beauty shots outside...

    Note the chrome trim around the side marker lights is still missing...

    Note on the front fender the chrome trim for the side marker is still missing...

    Next I'll replace all the chrome trim I removed before sanding and buffing and then put the frosting on the cake...

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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    Re: Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


    Re-assembling trim components
    Before I started any washing, claying or chemical stripping, the first thing I did was to remove, package and identify as much of the chrome trim as I could do so safely. Don't count on your memory to remember where each and every little nut, bolt or washer goes but instead use Zip-lock bags and Post-It notes to compartmentalize and describe the components and where they came from.

    The first application of paint sealant will make the paint slippery so it will resist any accidental scratching or scuffing during assembly of the trim pieces.

    All chrome trim components for this 1969 El Camino were packaged to prevent
    losing any parts and identified as to where the were removed from.

    You can use a little Dielectric grease on the rubber boots to make assembly and any future disassembly easier but don't actually coat the electrical connectors with dielectric grease as it is non-conductive.

    Clean and oil all threads before reassembling components, be careful not to over tighten assembly
    nuts and bolts on classic to avoid braking or stripping attachment components...

    Clean and sanitary re-assembly creates a crisp, factory new look...

    A fast, simple way to attach any screws to their rightful home is to place some painter's tape on the threads after inserting them into their proper location. This will save you lots of time hunting down just the right threaded screw to re-attach trim components. Remove the tape, clean the component and it's ready to re-assemble.

    In order to remove the rear lights out of the tailgate we had to remove this panel with what appears to be the original paint. Bolting it back on without polishing it first would take away from the big picture of a highly and completely detailed car.

    While it was off we used a spot repair polishing pad with a one-step cleaner/wax to restore a deep, dark glossy black finish to the panel. We also used the cleaner/wax on the clear-coated red paint on the actual inside area of the tailgate to remove some water-spots and wear-n-tear scratching.

    A small detail that makes a huge difference for that finishing touch...

    After the first compounding step Post-it notes were placed on all 4 major windows to remind people not to touch the car and specifically the paint. After the last polishing step and any wax or sealant steps, the finish becomes so clear and glossy that fingerprint smudges stand out like a sore thumb.

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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    Re: Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


    Time to put the frosting on the cake...
    Wolfgang Fuzion is a high-end finishing wax that will create a clear, high gloss, reflective finish with a deep, wet shine... which is exactly what you want for show car results on a project like this 1969 El Camino...

    For this application I applied using overlapping circular motions and probably turned my wax pad over one hundred times to look for any abrasive particles on the face of my applicator pad. This is important to insure you don't instill any circular scratches. This is also where a light colored applicator pad comes in handy so if there are any dirt particles on the face of the pad you can easily see them.

    You can also use the Straightline Technique which is explained in this video...

    How To Apply A Carnauba Finishing Wax By Hand Using The Straight-Line Technique

    I try to apply my finishing waxes and paint sealants by machine but when I do apply by hand I'll tend to split between straightline technique and overlapping circle technique just to stay sharp on all techniques as this helps to write articles better since I can draw from first-hand, real world experience. I also recommend that others try the various options for applying waxes and sealants until they find the technique that works best for them, their choice of wax or paint sealant and their car's unique body lines...

    See my articles on waxes, sealants and hybrids here,

    Frosting on the cake
    How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Detailing Project
    The Final Wipe – Tips for creating a streak-free, show car finish

    Fuzion is a WOWO Finishing Hybrid, by Hybrid that means it's a blend of both synthetic and natural ingredients for protection, longevity and aesthetics...

    Wiped off...

    Then outside for a few beauty shots...

    We shot some video footage of the end-results and will post the results after it gets through the editing que...

    Time to return the car to the owner...

  10. #10
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    Re: Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips

    Products Used
    3M Random Orbital 6 Inch Air Sander 20325
    3M Hookit Backing Plate
    3M Hookit 6" Soft Interface Pad #05777
    Meguiars Unigrit™ 1500 6 Inch Sanding Discs
    Meguiars Unigrit™ 1500 6 inch Finishing Discs #S6F1500
    Meguiars Unigrit™ 3000 6 Inch Finishing Discs #S6F3000
    Meguiar's Sanding Backing Plate #S6BP 6 inch
    Meguiar's Foam Interface Pad #S6FI 6 inch
    Meguiars Unigrit Professional Hand Pad
    Meguiars Professional Headlight & Spot Repair Kit
    Defelsko PosiTest DFT Combo Electronic Paint Thickness Gauge
    Indigo Microfiber Towels
    Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light
    3M Painter's Tape
    Spray Bottle
    Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer
    Autogeek System 2000 Pad Washer
    Lake Country Wool Pad Spur
    Foam Pad Conditioning Brush
    Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay
    Makita Rotary Buffer
    Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer
    W-5000 Meguiars Double Sided 100% Wool Cutting Pad
    W-8207 Meguiars 7 inch Soft Buff 2.0 Foam Polishing Pad
    W-9207 Meguiars 7 inch Soft Buff 2.0 Foam Finishing Pad
    W-7204 Meguiars Burgundy 4 Inch Soft Buff Foam Cutting Pads 2-Pack
    W-8204 Meguiars 4 Inch Yellow Soft Buff Foam Polishing Pads 2-Pack
    Meguiars Solo Easy Buff W66 Rotary Backing Plate 6 Inch
    M105 Meguiars Ultra-Cut Compound 32 ounce New D.A. Version
    M205 Meguiars Ultra Finishing Polish 32 ounce
    Meguiar's M21 Synthetic Sealant
    Wolfgang Füzion Carnauba Polymer Estate Wax

    I would also like to give due credit where credit is due and thank Jason Rose from Meguiar’s for technical information on Meguiar’s new Unigrit Sanding Discs.

    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member - Certified Detailer - Skills Validated Detailer - IDA Recognized Trainer
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