autogeekonline car wax, car care and auto detailing forum Autogeek on TV
car wax, car care and auto detailing forumAutogeekonline autogeekonline car wax, car care and auto detailing forum HomeForumBlogAutogeek.net StoreDetailing Classes with Mike PhillipsGalleryDetailing How To's
 
Page 6 of 32 FirstFirst 12345678910111213141516 ... LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 314
  1. #51
    Super Member BillyJack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    1,227
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    You can do things like a Dawn wash or IPA wipe, but I just do a regular wash and rely on the first step-a thorough claying, to remove any residual wax on the surface.

    Bill

  2. #52
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by jenniferny View Post

    I am ordering the 64oz size to make sure that I have enough to do the whole car.

    Is there a point where adding another coat no longer helps?
    Yes. At some point the paint will be completely saturated with the polishing oils found in the #7 polish and there will no where for the oils to go.

    Quote Originally Posted by jenniferny View Post

    Can the glaze be machine applied, or is it best to do it by hand?
    Depends on what you're trying to accomplish.

    If you read my article it explains I'm using the nap of the towel as my abrasive and I'm of course using my hand to hold the towel. This is how I'm CAREFULLY abrading the antique, delicate paint.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips


    Non-abrasive abrasives...
    Here's a close-up of the tufts of microfibers that make up the working face of this microfiber polishing towel. When used dry this microfiber polishing towel is soft and absorbent. The way we're going to use it however, it will still be soft and gentle to the paint except that I'm going to put a little passion behind my hand as I move this microfiber towel over the paint and the pressure I apply is going to engage the microfibers with the paint and provide a very gentle scrubbing and even abrading action.


    Tufts of microfiber threads... these are your abrasives...



    If the car wasn't important to me I could easily just hit the paint with a wool cutting pad on a rotary buffer and likely destroy the antique paint job.

    If the paint is important to you, then use a microfiber towel like I show in the picture above or use a 100% cotton, terry cloth towel, like a hand towel or wash cloth.

    Use the NAP, that is the little cotton loops as a form of a mild abrasive, together with the polishing oils to carefully abrade or clean the surface of the paint while at the same time gorging it with polishing oils while at the same time being incredible safe and careful.

    Be sure to read the article, don't just scan it. It's one of the more incredibly detailed articles I've ever written. It's easy to show someone and explain to someone in person how to restore antique paint. It's a lot more DIFFICULT to do it with a keyboard and when I do teach people with a keyboard I go into detail but you have to purposefully read the text, not scan the article.


    Quote Originally Posted by jenniferny View Post

    I have a PC 7336 and Lake Country Pads. I am hoping that it will make my car look better and I am not to late!
    If you're working on single stage paint and it's not past the point of no return then the oils in the #7 Show Car Glaze will definitely help to bring out the full richness of color as well as help prevent future oxidation.

    If the paint is not oxidized or if it only has light oxidation you can use your PC and a polishing pad to apply the #7 Show Car Glaze but to be honest there are times when working by hand will do a better job... this is coming from a guy that tries to do everything by machine.


    Quote Originally Posted by jenniferny View Post
    One more question, does the Glaze do anything for Base/Clear Coat paint?
    Mike, Thank You Again for all the help!!

    Jennifer
    The normal answer for this question is "yes" for older, worn, more opened clear coats. As paint ages it becomes more open than when it was brand new. Do a search on the word interstices.

    As for actually getting to the basecoat? "no". If you can rub on the basecoat of a basecoat/clearcoat finish that means the clear is now missing and the basecoat will never polish-out and shine like the clear layer as it purposefully has a matte appearance. The basecoat layer of paint gets its gloss from the clear layer of paint.


    Good questions... now how about a FULL SIZE picture of your car project?



  3. #53
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by Baconzjews11 View Post
    Quick question. If you've already waxed the paint on a single staged paint. Could i still be able to go and use this method?

    Thanks
    You could but the wax will be acting as a barrier preventing at least some of the polishing oils from getting into all the potential areas of paint that it could bet to if the wax wasn't in the way.

    What are you working on?




  4. #54
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    El Paso
    Posts
    130
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek View Post
    You could but the wax will be acting as a barrier preventing at least some of the polishing oils from getting into all the potential areas of paint that it could bet to if the wax wasn't in the way.

    What are you working on?



    I'm working on my step dads 1976 jeep cj5. Paint looks very rough and oxodized

    Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

  5. #55
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by Baconzjews11 View Post

    I'm working on my step dads 1976 jeep cj5.

    Paint looks very rough and oxidized

    That's not a problem for most single stage paints in 1976, these were actually pretty stout paints.

    Non-metallic single stage paints are actually really easy to restore, it's the metallic single stage paints that are difficult.

    You can follow the tips I share in this article or attack it with a machine, that's up to you and how important it is to preserve the current paint, but it should come back with no problems.

    Remember you're going to be removing a lot of dead, oxidized paint so you'll need to clean your pad often by machine or by hand as you'll see this gunk building up...


    Be sure to take good before and after pictures, see my article here on that topic...

    The power in the after shots is created in the before shots


    Here's the key portion...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
    One of the things I've learned when doing dramatic extreme makeovers, whether on oxidized single stage paints or swirled-out clear coats, is the importance of capturing great before shots.

    One of the biggest problems with capturing a great before shot is someone, [B
    not understanding the value in the before shot and all it's ugliness[/B], will take some kind of paint polishing product and make a clean, shiny spot in an otherwise really neglected and ugly panel like the hood or the trunk-lid.

    It's this single shiny spot that ruins the dramatic "before" pictures.


    These types of panels make the best before and after shots because they are usually large, they are usually in the worst shape, you can look down on them, or in this case take an overhead shot of them, and the hood is specifically the panel that gets the most attention from car enthusiasts.





  6. #56
    Junior Member margallar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    87
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Mike i wish you could be sent to pakistan by courier :P. here is my problem, i am dealing with low quality ten year old single stage, the paint has overspray (though thats not my problem, i am used to claying ). if you observe the paint carefully you can see that the edges of panels especially the roof are much darker and glossier than the rest of the panel, you wax the car and look at it up close, it looks nice and deep, go a little farther and that depth seems to have disappeared and the paint looks a little white (colour is red), i feel like you said that the problem is topical. but the paint is thin and dry. when i wax it with meguiars #26 you can see the oil disappear within max 2seconds. and then the wax becomes hard to spread. i need something mild enough to remove the oxidation (really it looks as if the paint has absorbed dust) and also a little oily to feed it. my lsp will be wolfgang deep gloss sealant (i tested it on the dry paint, i applied it super thin and removed after 20 minutes, then let it cure for 24 hours and then applied 26, the #26 was spreading easily on the part treated with wolfgang sealant). the sealant gave the paint good gloss, reduced it's haziness yet my pad remained clean, no noticeable paint transfer. the sealant is good for gloss and reflections but for depth i apply #26 over it. , so what polish or abrasive would you advise. i work by hand but can ask an autofiness authorized detailer to come over with his rotary buffer

  7. #57
    Junior Member margallar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    87
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    bump

  8. #58
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    bump

    Saw you post over the weekend, was finishing up the pictures from my class for this thread...

    How to use a Rotary Buffer



    Hang tight...




  9. #59
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post

    Mike i wish you could be sent to Pakistan by courier.
    Max will send me anywhere to teach a class as long as it's a win/win deal, that is everyone profits.


    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post

    the paint looks a little white (colour is red),
    If it's a single stage read paint job and you're seeing white it's one of two things that I describe in my how-to book in the chapter called,

    Page 37 - Paint Condition Categories


    It's one of these, the first one can be fixed, the second one cannot.



    7: Extreme Oxidation
    Paint is this category is primarily associated with traditional single stage lacquer and enamel paints and normally found cars built before 1980. Extreme Oxidation means the paint has deteriorated to the point that it has a chalky, whitish appearance.

    Paint in this category is typically antique or original. It can be a re-paint, but it would be an older re-repaint. Paint with extreme oxidation can be saved by carefully removing the dead, oxidized paint and rejuvenating with polishing oils the remaining paint. After polishing the color is restored and remains even when exposed to sunlight. If the color fades away then this is an indicator that the paint has become unstable.




    9: Unstable
    This category is for older, single stage paints that have been exposed to the sun for a long enough period of time that the pigments have become unstable. That is even if you remove the oxidation and gorge the paint with some type of polishing oils, any original color that is restored is only a temporary fix and when the paint is exposed to the sun or after a few days pass the color fades back to where it was before you started.






    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post


    so what polish or abrasive would you advise.
    Traditionally what works and the product focused on in this article you're posting to is the #7 Show Car Glaze. This article explains how to carefully restore a antique or older paint job without using abrasives. #7 is non-abrasives and again, in this article I explain that you use the #7 for it's oils and the nap of either microfiber or terry cloth as our abrasive.

    All this information can be found by clicking the link below and reading the article, not merely scanning it.

    The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Here's the pertinent portion but you should really read the entire article...




    Removing Oxidation Without Abrasives
    Now that all the bonded contaminants have been removed off the top of the paint it's time to remove the dead oxidized paint off the surface and to some degree some of the embedded dirt and oxidation below the surface. To do this we're going to use a plush, microfiber polishing towel with some Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze.


    Always fold your microfiber towels 4 ways
    What you want to do is take your polishing towel and fold it 4 ways to create a working cloth that is large enough you can place you hand on it when working the #7 over the paint. Folding the cloth 4 ways will also provide plenty of cushion to spread out the pressure of your fingers and palm. This enables you to work gently and safely on antique, fragile paints and will also help you to avoid instilling fingermarks.





    Non-abrasive abrasives...
    Here's a close-up of the tufts of microfibers that make up the working face of this microfiber polishing towel. When used dry this microfiber polishing towel is soft and absorbent. The way we're going to use it however, it will still be soft and gentle to the paint except that I'm going to put a little passion behind my hand as I move this microfiber towel over the paint and the pressure I apply is going to engage the microfibers with the paint and provide a very gentle scrubbing and even abrading action.


    Tufts of microfiber threads... these are your abrasives...




    Shake well before using
    Shake your bottle of #7 up exceedingly well. One of the reasons #7 used to come in clear glass bottles and later clear plastic bottles was so that you could see that the product had separated out and the hope was that as a thinking human being you would see the product had separated in the bottle and thus shake the bottle till the product had a uniform color and consistency.

    After you shake the product up well you want to pour a generous amount of product out onto the face of just one side of your folded microfiber towel and note that you're going to use this one side for each panel over the entire car.

    The words or terms for how much product you use goes like this,

    Use the product heavy or wet

    Because this is important, let me repeat these instructions...

    Use the product heavy or wet!

    This means you use a lot of product, you want the surface wet with product as you're working a section. You're trying to saturate the paint to gorge it with the rich polishing oils found in the #7 but you're also trying to emulsify and loosen any embedded dirt or oxidation off and out of the paint. For this car I used one full bottle on just the hood and the top of the trunk lid and most of another bottle for the passenger and driver's sides. The horizontal surfaces are always the worst because they are exposed to direct sunlight, water from rain and air-borne pollution and contaminants and thus always require the most work to clean, revitalize and restore.




    Fold the cloth into itself to spread the product out and wet the face of the cloth.




    "It ain't braggin' if you can back it up" -Dizzy Dean

    Now comes the passion: Start working the #7 Show Car Glaze over and into the paint in a vigorous manner. I'm in pretty good shape as I work out at the local gym and lead an active lifestyle that includes rubbing out cars both by hand and by machine.

    I also dare say I'm pretty good at rubbing out cars by hand. I'm not bragging, just stating a fact that I can back up. It's more work than most people think and my point is this, rubbing this behemoth of a vehicle out by hand vigorously got me breathing hard and made my hands and arms tired.

    Here's the point I'm trying to make...

    If you're not breathing hard and you're not getting tired then you're not working the product over the paint vigorously enough.

    Out of all the steps, this is the hardest, most time-consuming and most important step there is to do and it is this step that will determine your end results. If you don't remove the topical oxidation and embedded dirt and oxidation during this step then it will still be there when you make the final wipe to remove the wax. So put your heart and soul into this step. If you need to, take a break in-between panels.


    It is vital that you work the #7 against the paint vigorously...




    Rub out one panel at a time
    After you work a small section, about 20" squarish or so, stop, re-apply fresh product and move onto a new section and be sure to overlap a little into the previous section.

    • Panel = a door, the hood, the roof, etc.
    • Section - a portion of a panel
    Note the color being transferred onto the cloth. Part of the color you see is the color of the #7. The other part of the color is the dirt coming off and out of the paint and part of the color is the oxidation coming off the aluminum flakes.








    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post

    i work by hand but can ask an autofiness authorized detailer to come over with his rotary buffer

    I would be very wary of letting anyone use ONLY a rotary buffer on your car's single stage paint unless they have been hanging out on a discussion forum like this for years and have lots of experience.

    As for an abrasive product suggestion?

    M80 Speed Glaze by Meguiar's is rich in polishing oils like the #7 Show Car Glaze but it also contains diminishing abrasives to cut off the dead, dying, oxidized single stage paint.


    You can use it by hand or machine, I would avoid using it with a rotary buffer on anything that is "important" to you unless they meet the requirements I listed above.


    How about a picture?



  10. #60
    Junior Member margallar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    87
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    the person who I will contact if i need some work to be done by a rotary buffer is fairly experienced, infact he is the best in our country, here is his website
    Chevy Belair 1957 | Car Care And Detailing Dreams
    he has had experience with a car ditto same as mine, same condition same problem, he had done quite a good job at it. but the abrasive he used "farecla G3", that was something i didnt quite like.

    well we are going to have a small detailing gtg this sunday, my friend has a dslr so i will post good quality pics on sunday, if possible ill also
    post pics of the other car., I still prefer working on it myself and by hand, i feel someone who has worked on the paint alot can understand it better and do less trial and error, the paint isnt unstable, just needs a litte refinement and the removal of the whitish cuticle.

    but is it okay if i apply wolfgang deep gloss sealant 3.0 over #7 ?

    thanks for your time Mike
    Last edited by margallar; 10-08-2012 at 11:27 AM.

Page 6 of 32 FirstFirst 12345678910111213141516 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 12
    Last Post: 03-05-2019, 05:24 PM
  2. removing oxidation on single stage paint. Cleaner of Final cut polish
    By 2shiny in forum Ask your detailing questions!
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 09-18-2013, 06:52 AM
  3. Replies: 12
    Last Post: 11-19-2012, 12:57 PM
  4. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 05-01-2012, 08:47 AM
  5. Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-23-2010, 03:40 PM

Members who have read this thread: 4

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

» March 2024

S M T W T F S
2526272829 1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31 123456