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06-24-2014, 11:08 AM
#151
Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Originally Posted by xxnonamexx
Great article and I think this will explain how to get my Brother in Laws MG oxidized paint looking showroom shine.
Thank you... besides wetsanding cool cars for a show car finish restoring original antique single stage paint is my favorite type of project.
There's really no other information source for how to do this type of work and my guess is now days any article on this topic will be a copy of my article.
Originally Posted by xxnonamexx
For saturation do you recommend covering the entire car in #7 for 24hrs?
Then remove it and apply a second coat per section and wipe off?
Thanks
The key word here is IMPORTANT
What are you working on, how bad is it, how old is it and how IMPORTANT is it to you to preserve and restore the original paint.
If it's important, and I think this is what I say in the first few paragraphs of the first post in this thread, then rub the paint down with a HEAVY WET application of the #7 and let it soak in overnight.
Then remove and repeat... if it's important to you.
Why?
Because by the time you apply and remove the first application you will removed some of the dead paint to allow the second application to penetrate better.
Then after doing this 2-3 times move on to any polishing work as NOW the paint is safer to work on.
Then after all the polishing work, apply the #7 again before sealing with a wax.
Originally Posted by xxnonamexx
Can you use a machine when taking off #7?
I dare you to try it! You'll find you're simply wasting time.
Get some clean, soft worn terry cloth towels and wipe off using terry cloth.
KISS = Keep it Simple Simon
Originally Posted by xxnonamexx
If so what pad do you recommend. I did the initial saturation and I think I need to apply a few more times. Thanks
Looking forward to your before and after pictures.
What are you working on?
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06-24-2014, 11:12 AM
#152
Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Originally Posted by Stampe
Hi Mike!
Thanks for all your great posts! I rely like them and you inspire me!
I have a question regarding the menzerna PO85RD could it be used for feeding singel stage paint? I did as you did with putting it on some paper and it looked greasy?
Kind regards
Magnus
Hi Magnus,
Menzerna has been around longer than Meguiar's but I don't think that being around a long time also means they use the same Trade Secret Oils.
As I'm pretty sure I explained in my article, the formula for #7 is UNCHANGED since the time of the Model T and the time of the Model T is the time single stage AUTOMOTIVE paints were introduced to the world.
Use what you like, my experience is with #7 Show Car Glaze formerly #7 Sealer & Reseal Glaze.
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06-24-2014, 11:34 AM
#153
Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Originally Posted by LarryS
First post, although I've been reading this forum for quite some time. I've now read the initial article in this thread and all 15 pages of comments and, believe it or not, I still have questions about how to care for my 1975 Corvette.
Hi Larry and welcome to AutogeekOnline!
Originally Posted by LarryS
The car is always garaged, and covered, and the original lacquer (I believe) paint actually shines quite well (it is Classic White per Chevrolet). But the paint is nearly 40 years old and pretty badly checked in some areas (worst on the rear deck lid), has some chipping (I try to keep up by going on Chip Patrol regularly) and due to both age and many washes/waxes, is very thin in spots (worst where the driver/passenger would rest his/her arm when the window is down).
What you describe as far as the current condition is completely normal for single stage paint this old.
Originally Posted by LarryS
First, what I have learned.
One, the car will never again see a hose and a bucket of car wash. Waterless wash from now on.
Second, Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze is magic stuff.
Third, when used appropriately, a microfiber cloth can act as an abrasive.
Technically it's 100% Cotton Terrycloth that can and will work best as a gentle form of abrasive.
Autogeek doesn't sell 100% terrycloth wash cloths or towels, I wish we did because I think we would sell a lot of them.
So in the original article I used and showed a microfiber towel that we USED to carry because it was kind of like terry cloth with a LARGE loopy nap. We no longer stock it.
For me and my projects though, I actually use 100% Cotton Terrycloth. Heck go to Wal-Mart, Target or any similar store and buy a pack of cotton wash cloths for a few bucks.
LOTS of info here,
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...bel-air-2.html
In my article, I use and recommend terry cloth wash cloths to apply the #7 and the reason for this is because the nap, that is the tiny little cotton loops will work to not only agitate, loosen and abrade dead paint off the car they also help to really work the oils into the paint.
Microfiber towels would be too gentle. Microfiber towels would however be the right tool to remove the future polish and wax we apply.
Microfiber can be used but it's so dang soft and gentle. If you want soft and gentle than go with microfiber but if have dead paint to remove then go with terrycloth.
Originally Posted by LarryS
Now the questions.
The No. 7 bottle says to apply sparingly and not to let it dry, but everything here says to put it on wet and let it stay on overnight.
As a guy that used to write the directions for the labels on Meguiar's products, I can tell you that the directions on the label are CORRECT when using it as the label intends and that is on paint in great shape.
My article and thus my directions are for old single stage paint and that's is why they are different than the directions on the label.
Make sense?
Originally Posted by LarryS
I'm much more inclined to follow the recommendations found on this forum but is there any chance that the formulation has changed and it should be used sparingly and not left on? ("Just because your paranoid doesn't mean they're NOT after you!").
Here's what makes #7 so unique in the Car World. It's been around since the time of the Model T and the formula is UNCHANGED. That's a good thing.
If you read my how-to book, I document that we've only been driving cars for a little over 100 years. Before that we rode horses.
There were no Car PAINT companies back in the early days of the AUTOMOBILE and they coated the wood and steel with Shellac, Varnish and Lacquer paints from the WOOD FURNITURE INDUSTRY.
Then companies started coming out with paints specifically developed for CARS.
Here's the link to my how-to book, I explain all of this and a lot more....
Detailing How-To Book and Detailing How-To E-book by Mike Phillips
The formula is unchanged. There's a saying, goes like this...
If it ain't broke... don't fix it....
I hope they never change it.
Originally Posted by LarryS
With the No. 7, it is best to avoid the areas immediately surrounding chips so as to not promote further lifting of the paint, or (gently?) treat them with the 7?
Gently treat them with the #7, key word gently. #7 is not a "cleaner" but rubbing anything creamy over paint has a cleaning and polishing effect and will maintain the health and shine of the paint.
Originally Posted by LarryS
What would be the recommendation for sealant/wax after the #7?
The #7 bottle says follow up with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Yellow Wax (#26), which I have and could certainly use.
This wax has been around since the 1970s BUT the formula has been changed because it's been improved over the years. It's a non-abrasive pure wax and also a very clear wax.
Originally Posted by LarryS
But I also have Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax which I like quite a bit.
Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax is the CONSUMER version of M26.
Originally Posted by LarryS
I also was recently introduced to Blackfire products and have used their Crystal Seal on my newer cars. I'm not all that familiar with the newer polymer products - would they be recommended for older single stage paint?
For taking care of old single stage paint I would stick with a traditional Carnauba wax.
Wayne Carini's Thumb of Approval
In this shot you can see Wayne's hand as he's walking down the side of the car inspecting the results and giving the paint a final wipe....
And this my friends is one of the most rewarding pictures I've ever taken. This shot was taken after we finished polishing every square inch of paint and then applying a coat of Souveran Paste Wax.
This is what I'm talking about....
Get a jar of the Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax, I use it on so many show cars that do nothing but win first place after first place after first place.
You will love it.
Here's a Corvette a few years older than your sporting Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax
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06-24-2014, 06:07 PM
#154
Newbie Member
Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Mike,
Thanks for the response. I'll use the #7 wet as described and order some Pinnacle to top it off. Your response to the inquiry about the MGB says that the key word is "important". Keeping the original paint on my Corvette is very important to me. I've owned and cared for my L82 for over 23 years now and have tried diligently to preserve the finish - except for the bumper caps, the paint is all original. I'm still a little bit on the fence about the washcloth vs. microfiber for the #7. I know that the car has always been garaged and covered (I have the Vilem B. Hahn cover that was bought for it when it was new) and waxed regularly so I don't think that there is much faded paint that needs to be removed - I do know, though, that it is checked in many spots and chipped in others. One way or the other gentle will also be a key word, I now have a plan, and I'm convinced that the finish will look better and last longer after it's done. Thanks again.
LarryS
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06-25-2014, 06:45 AM
#155
Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Originally Posted by LarryS
Mike,
Thanks for the response. I'll use the #7 wet as described and order some Pinnacle to top it off.
Your response to the inquiry about the MGB says that the key word is "important".
Keeping the original paint on my Corvette is very important to me. I've owned and cared for my L82 for over 23 years now and have tried diligently to preserve the finish - except for the bumper caps, the paint is all original.
And this is one of the reasons I wrote this article and share it pretty much around the world and that's because I know that for a lot of people it's IMPORTANT to preserve original paint on some cars.
Once in a while we'll have a new forum member join and then post they are going to buff out some old car with the original antique single stage paint and the poo poo the technique here and simple take the caveman approach of compounding the old dry, brittle paint and it comes out looking great.
More power to them but I didn't write this article for them and they can do whatever they want however they want but I'll stick to my guns and to my advice shared in this article. It's been working for me for over 25 years and most of these members that take the caveman approach don't have my experience and thus don't have my perspective.
Originally Posted by LarryS
I'm still a little bit on the fence about the washcloth vs. microfiber for the #7.
I know that the car has always been garaged and covered (I have the Vilem B. Hahn cover that was bought for it when it was new) and waxed regularly so I don't think that there is much faded paint that needs to be removed - I do know, though, that it is checked in many spots and chipped in others.
If the paint is in good shape then by all means use a soft microfiber applicator pad or even a foam applicator pad. Match your application material to the condition of the paint.
Originally Posted by LarryS
One way or the other gentle will also be a key word, I now have a plan, and I'm convinced that the finish will look better and last longer after it's done. Thanks again.
LarryS
No problemo... I love helping guys with classic cars with the original paint keep it original and keep it looking good.
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03-22-2015, 08:35 PM
#156
Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
I'm nearly done with restoring the original single stage blue metallic on my 1972 Datsun 240z. I've completed 3 applications of #7 on the vertical panels, 5 on the horizontals. I'm still pulling some color out on my polishing towel, so I'll keep going until I'm satisfied. The results are simply amazing and well worth it. The paint looks new. What used to be chalky, dull and riddled with water spots is now deep and glossy- and a few shades darker. The metal flake is well defined, where it was all but invisible before.
I was planning on replanting this car when I got it recently, but now that I've restored the original, thanks to Mike's process, I think I've save money AND increased the value.
My question is should I finish off with an old school carnuaba paste wax or use a sealant like Wolfgangs? Never used the sealant before, and wondering how it will work on the old paint.
Thanks again for the help.
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03-23-2015, 09:17 AM
#157
Super Member
Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
First, with single-stage paint, you'll always pull some color on your applicator with any product that has any cleaners or polishes, so don't let that be your guide as to how many applications to do. I prefer to work by feel, using multiple apps of M07 until the paint feels saturated and the product lays mostly on the surface, no longer being easily absorbed by the paint. At that point, you can apply your LSP, or use a compound or polish, depending on your evaluation of the finish.
As far as the wax or sealant decision, there are no rules; It's up to you. I've used many brands of both wax and sealants, with good results. I prefer the carnauba "glow" over the hard reflection of a typical sealant, but often do both, applying the longer-lasting sealant first, then topping with a wax.
Bill
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03-24-2015, 02:07 PM
#158
Newbie Member
Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Originally Posted by billyjack
first, with single-stage paint, you'll always pull some color on your applicator with any product that has any cleaners or polishes, so don't let that be your guide as to how many applications to do. I prefer to work by feel, using multiple apps of m07 until the paint feels saturated and the product lays mostly on the surface, no longer being easily absorbed by the paint. At that point, you can apply your lsp, or use a compound or polish, depending on your evaluation of the finish.
As far as the wax or sealant decision, there are no rules; it's up to you. I've used many brands of both wax and sealants, with good results. I prefer the carnauba "glow" over the hard reflection of a typical sealant, but often do both, applying the longer-lasting sealant first, then topping with a wax.
Bill
LSP, lsp ??????
Last edited by jenniferny; 03-24-2015 at 02:09 PM.
Reason: YOUR SYSTEM KEEPS CHANGING LSP TO lsp!!!!!
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03-24-2015, 04:37 PM
#159
Super Member
Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Here are a few of the common acronyms:
PC = 6" Dual Action Polisher (Porter-Cable/Meguiars)
7336 = 6" Dual Action Polisher/Sander (Porter-Cable)
7424 = 6" Dual Action Polisher (Porter-Cable)
BC/CC = Base Coat/Clear Coat (Automotive Paint)
CB = Clay Bar
DA = Dual Action
DISO = Dealer Installed Swirl Option
ESP = Engineered Synthetic Polymers
FWIW = For what it's worth
IG = Stoner's Invisible Glass
IMHO In My Humble Opinion
IMO = In My Opinion
lol or LOL = Laughing Out Loud
LSP = Last Step Product
MF = Microfiber Towel
MSDS = Material Safety Data Sheets
OB = Orbital Buffer (Anything that's not a PC, usually bigger and slower)
QEW = Protect All Quick & Easy Wash
RB = Rotary Buffer
RIDS = Random Isolated Deeper Scratches
SS = Single Stage (Automotive Paint)
SW = Spray Wax
TIA = Thanks In Advance
WM = Wash Mitt
WW = Waffle Weave Towel
AG - Autogeek
AOI - Klasse All-In-One
EX-P - Poorboy's EX-P Pure Sealant
LSP - Last Step Product
MF - Micro Fiber towel
PB - Poorboy’s
PC - Porter Cable variable speed polisher
QD - Quick Detail
UPP - Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection
WG - Wolfgang product line
Bill
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03-30-2015, 12:51 PM
#160
Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Thankyou so much for sharing this process, with the help of a friend we were able to bring back the paint on my "Survivor" Hot Rod this past weekend, painted in approx 1961 & parked in a garage from 1970 - 2014 without ever being washed I followed your instructions & was blown away with the results.
Thanks Again
Jer
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