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  1. #101
    Super Member BillyJack's Avatar
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by r1lark View Post
    Mike, for my '54 Studebaker, you recommended the following:




    It's time to apply more #7, at least to the hood, roof, and trunklid.

    Question: What should I used to take the wax off so the #7 will soak into the paint?

    Thanks for all the help Mike. I've gotten a lot of compliments on the paint of this car, especially when I tell people it was last painted in the early 1970s!

    I'm a huge fan of Mike's process, as it's made a total transformation on my old El Camino, so I would certainly not want to contradict anything Mike tells you, but I'll just add my thoughts on what's worked for me doing a yearly refresh. Even though my Camino is garage-kept and stored all winter after multiple apps of wax through the summer and fall, I find it fails the "baggie test" in the spring. After a thorough washing, I'll do a claying with a mild clay then start my rubs and soaks with M07. I find that it still soaks in well. The only change I do to the process is using a folded MF towel rather than cotton terry, since I don't need to be as aggressive as the first time. Also, I've stepped down my machine polishing to a milder Meguiar's yellow pad on a R/O, as opposed to the rotary I used the first time. Even though my aging paint is still deteriorating, it seems like every yearly re-do makes it just a little bit better.

    Bill

  2. #102
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by BillyJack View Post

    Even though my Camino is garage-kept and stored all winter after multiple apps of wax through the summer and fall, I find it fails the "baggie test" in the spring.
    Isn't that just strange how that happens? Just goes to show you never know what's in the air around your car and for this reason it's IMPORTANT to check after you wash or wipe your car clean.

    The hood and roof on my truck continually need to be clayed. (it sits outside 24x7)


    Quote Originally Posted by BillyJack View Post

    After a thorough washing, I'll do a claying with a mild clay then start my rubs and soaks with M07.

    I find that it still soaks in well.
    Thanks for adding that as this is my experience also. The oils in #7 can still be pushed through a waxed surface so no need to do a "dedicated wax removal step" and in fact, rubbing the surface down with the #7 will not only push the oils into the paint but believe it or not it will remove most of the wax.

    This is not because the #7 is abrasive but just the act of moving a cloth over the surface has a cleaning effect.


    Quote Originally Posted by BillyJack View Post

    The only change I do to the process is using a folded MF towel rather than cotton terry, since I don't need to be as aggressive as the first time.
    And that's great advice. A person could actually use a soft foam applicator at this point too.


    Quote Originally Posted by BillyJack View Post

    Also, I've stepped down my machine polishing to a milder Meguiar's yellow pad on a R/O, as opposed to the rotary I used the first time.
    More good advice,

    "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

    Most people think the word product means a chemical like a compound or polish but it actually can mean ANYTHING, including the type of pad, the type of tool and even your technique.


    Quote Originally Posted by BillyJack View Post

    Even though my aging paint is still deteriorating, it seems like every yearly re-do makes it just a little bit better.

    Bill

    That would be my experience also, that is till you get to the point of no return... that's when you start to see a cloudy look to the thinnest areas and the cloudy look is the beginning of the primer to show through...


    More paint is better...


    Nice input Bill...



  3. #103
    Super Member Love's Auto's Avatar
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    This is amazing!

  4. #104
    Super Member Calendyr's Avatar
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    An other great piece from you Mike. Thank you!

    From start to finish, how long did it take you to do all the steps you listed? My concern here is price. I know you do a lot of antique and classic car restorations, how do people feel about paying for 20, 30, 40 hours of work? What arguments can be used to justify such a large expense?

  5. #105
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by Love's Auto View Post

    This is amazing!
    It's using old technology on old technology...


    And it works.



  6. #106
    Newbie Member
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    New member here:looking forward to getting started on this process for my 1959 Chevy truck.

  7. #107
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by obie View Post

    New member here:looking forward to getting started on this process for my 1959 Chevy truck.

    Sounds good and since this was your first post to our forum...


    Welcome to AutogeekOnline!



  8. #108
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by gbrittenum View Post
    What wax and/or sealer would you use on a 1988 Mustang with single stage black paint (1c) after the #7 show car glaze treatment? It has set in a garage a couple of years. What would give the glossy finish and longest life (are those two things mutually exclusive)?

    If a car has vinyl stripes do you clay over the stripes, what about the #7 show car glaze do you use it on the stripes?

    If a car has vinyl stripes do you clay over the stripes?

    I'll try and explain to you what I would do in this scenario. Perhaps Mike may approach it differently.

    Anytime I am working on, or around, vynil graffics of any shape and size, I use caution.

    Where at all possible it's important to start in the middle of the graffic and work towards the edge...work away from the middle, towards and off the edge onto the substrate ... paint, glass, or gel-coat... which ever you're working on. I don't like to work into the edge, or from the paint and up onto the graffic.

    You could also clay parallel to the graffic edge, or inline with the stripe possibley without affecting it, but I prefer (when at all possible) starting in the middle and moving away from the edge.

    Somewhere in a post, or article, I believe Mr. Phillips eluded to that fact that over time the edge of graffics can be lifted if working into the edge of the vynil graffic. This is especially true using buffing machines around graffics. To my understanding that translates to the vynil lifting more and more, ever so slightly...over time...each time you work into, or towards, the edge of the graffic. The eye isnt' capable of detecting this subtle lifting of the vynil edge until it's too late. Make sense?

    Hope this was helpful.
    Bill

  9. #109
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by Hoytman View Post


    Somewhere in a post, or article, I believe Mr. Phillips eluded to that fact that over time the edge of graffics can be lifted if working into the edge of the vynil graffic.

    This is especially true using buffing machines around graffics.

    To my understanding that translates to the vynil lifting more and more, ever so slightly...over time...each time you work into, or towards, the edge of the graffic.

    The eye isnt' capable of detecting this subtle lifting of the vynil edge until it's too late.

    Make sense?

    Hope this was helpful.

    Couldn't have said it better myself Bill.

    I do cover this topic in one of the first articles I wrote upon coming to Autogeek back in 2009...

    Step-by-Step How-To use the Porter Cable 7424XP


    From post #5

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips


    If the car you're working on has any kind of vinyl graphics, stickers or pinstripes, avoid claying over them as you can easily cause the tips to lift and once the tips of any graphic has lifted it's never going to lay flat against the surface again and usually the edges will lift more and more. So be careful around graphics when claying. This also applies when working with paint care products. (Avoid rubbing paint care products over graphics)





    With almost 40,000 posts on this forum half my forum work is just remembering where all this stuff is so I don't have to re-write it.


    I also cover it in my how-to book which there is a link to in my Signature Line.



  10. #110
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Thank you for the article.

    the paint on my 92 911 has seen better days. and you can clearly see the oxidation. I am gonna spend the winter restoring the paint using this method.

    It has a single stage red paint. no metallic. Any recommendation on restoring red paints?

    Can I use this method in a span of couple weeks? I can only work on Saturday due to time constrain.

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