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  1. #1
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    If it has paint... it gets polished...

    If it has paint... it gets polished...


    Well, actually sanded and compounded and polished an waxed...


    The lowest portions of the sides of the body have some pretty bad mottling...



    I didn't want to sand these areas too much due to their appearance but wanted to try to flatten them out a little to match the upper portions of the body panels. I taped any hard body lines, trim holes and trim off.





    Then sanded using the Meguiar's Unigrit #3000 Foam Finishing Discs. Don't be thinking because it's #3000 Grit it won't remove a lot of paint, these discs cut fast after they break-in and the break-in after just a few passes. The major panels were sanded on the 6.0 Speed Setting, the minor panels were sanded anywhere from the 3.0 to 5.0, the tighter the area to get into the slower the speed and the more caution used.



    The white stuff for anyone reading this wondering what that is, that is clear coat paint that has been sanded off and was in the water film on the panel. After the water evaporates off it leaves the clear coat residue which after being abraded is whitish.



    This is where a hydraulic floor lift is a real asset, but what I alway teach in our classes is,

    If you can't bring the car up to you... bring yourself down to the car...





    This is the new Meguiar's Burgundy Soft Buff 4" foam Cutting Pad on a 2 3/4" backing plate attached to the Flex 3403

    Using M105 for my cutting compound, it can sometimes be difficult to wipe off for a variety of reasons but if you wipe whatever panel you're working on immediately then it wipes off pretty easy, that is to wipe the film residue off before it fully dries.

    Can't endorse the Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer enough, this is to date, one of the nicest rotary buffers I've ever used and work great for small pads in tight areas or thin panels. For the major panels I'm using the Makita 9227C but for "edging" this car and any and all small, thin panels or tight areas I'm using the 3403

    Here's a little tip, anytime you're buffing next to an adjacent panel and it's possible you could run the vertical or side edge of your pad into the paint, lubricate it by working some of the product you're using on the face of the pad onto and into the foam. This will help to keep from generating too much heat and burning the paint and also in the case of these lower panels, help me to remove some of the sanding marks on the angled section.









    It's this little long thin section I'm trying to improve and protect.



    Picking up just a portion of the bead of product using the 10 @ 10 technique and then working it over a portion of this panel.













    Note the safety glasses... don't want any splatter in my eyes...



    After removing the sanding marks in the front portion of that panel I picked up my bead and tackled the rear portion...





    My personal preference is not handle, if there is a handle I actually like a Stick Handle as I can quickly and easily either remove it or move it from side to side depending upon how it works best for the panel.





    Much better...


    Back to it... I have the roof worked all the way up to a coat of M21 Synthetic Sealant, going to compound the hood and vertical panels next with the M105, W5000 and Makita.


    Mike Phillips
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  2. #2
    Member dragster's Avatar
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    Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...

    Mike you are the man.

  3. #3
    Senior Member dublifecrisis's Avatar
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    Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...

    I need to practice laying down this bead. It seems to distribute better and give the entire section the same amount of coverage vs. priming, then adding a small pea size directly to the pad, then trying to work an area.

    Good write-up Mike!

  4. #4
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...

    Edging
    I edged the entire car, edging means to go around and remove the sanding marks from all the edges leaving only the major portions of the panels left to compound.

    Most people just compound the entire panel from start to finish and that approach works and is used in body shops all the time, but I like to edge all the panels for a couple of reasons.

    1) This isn't my car and for that reason I want to be very careful. If it were my car I would edge it, even though it's not my car I treat it like it is my car.

    2) Removing the sanding marks around all the edges using a 4" pad is actually very easy to do and gives you GREAT control over the process, especially if you have the Flex 3403 or a lightweight and small rotary buffer to work with. You remove most of the risk for burning and edge or a high point due to the control factor.


    Here's the roof edged,















    After I finished edging the roof, I was finished edging the entire car. The next step is to remove the sanding marks out of the center portions of the roof, the major portions of the panel. Using #3000 Grit Foam Finishing Discs, means it only takes a just a few minutes to compound out the major flat portions of the roof using the Makita with a W5000 Double Sided Wool Cutting pad with the M105.

    Next I machine polished the roof 3 times with the rotary and then once with the DA and then I sealed it with M21. I probably won't get those pictures uploaded and inserted however as I'm going back out to finish compounding the major portions of the rest of the panels on the car.

    I usually work the roof of a car all the way to wax, or paint sealant and the tackle all the panels below it afterwards. I'll share why tomorrow but feel free to take a guess as to why someone would work a sand, cut and buff project like this?

    Here's a 1951 Desoto I actually Damp Sanded before Damp Sanding was a term, I did this one with Richard Lin.



    If you look carefully at the roof, you'll see it has a soft, flannel sheet taped onto it, that's because we sanded, cut, polished and sealed the paint before tackling the lower portions of the car. We damp-sanded the entire thing at one time, but did the buff-out on the roof from compounding all the way through to sealing in one process and then covered it to prevent dust from accumulating on the finish.


    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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  5. #5
    Senior Member rohnramirez's Avatar
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    Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...

    Hi Mike, just a question regarding your post. I'm interested in the #3000 unigrit pad. Can i use that attachment on the PCXP to act like a DA Sander? Thanks.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Shane731's Avatar
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    Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...

    Oh no! Mike's laying down on the job! What will Max say!

    Shane


  7. #7
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...

    Before we started....

    The Tools...







    And a little taping off to protect body lines, edges, corners, cracks, crevices and components...






























    Quote Originally Posted by rohnramirez View Post
    Hi Mike, just a question regarding your post. I'm interested in the #3000 Unigrit pad. Can i use that attachment on the PCXP to act like a DA Sander?

    Thanks.

    Yes. That was the topic of one of my classes at this year's Mobile Tech Expo...


    Pictures from Mobile Tech Expo 2010

    We shot a video on how to Damp Sand this last Saturday using this El Camino, it also covers how to using the rotary buffer to remove sanding marks, polish to a high gloss and the machine seal the paint.

    Actually, everything we shared in the video I'm duplicating exactly to this car except for the two videos we shot on how to remove bird dropping etchings and the demo on using a dual action polisher with the Surbuf pads to remove sanding marks.

    Hopefully the Bird Dropping Videos will be edited and up this week, if not this week then next week.


    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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  8. #8
    Senior Member rohnramirez's Avatar
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    Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek View Post
    Yes. That was the topic of one of my classes at this year's Mobile Tech Expo...

    WOW! I have to get those, this'll make my life so much easier. Thanks for the quick reply (that was fast)!

    Since you mentioned it cuts through paint quite fast eventhough it's just 3000grit, would you equate it to a regular sandpaper with 2000 grit as far as cutting is concerned? Or it cuts that fast because you're damp sanding?

    I've wetsanded with 2000grit then 2500grit then applied compound and polish, all by hand, but it just takes forever to finish a whole car.
    Last edited by rohnramirez; 03-02-2010 at 10:55 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member termigator's Avatar
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    Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...

    Does AG sell the foam finishing discs and anything else needed to attach to the DA?

  10. #10
    Senior Member rohnramirez's Avatar
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    Re: If it has paint... it gets polished...

    Quote Originally Posted by termigator View Post
    Does AG sell the foam finishing discs and anything else needed to attach to the DA?
    +1 on

    Tried looking for it at the AG store but couldn't find it.

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