Best Practice - Avoid buffing on top of body lines and edges

Yeah that,s nice to know about it.As you know all the work is on your hands.So carefully use it and don it well.Avoid buffing on the top of the body and on the edges is actually a big point.Mostly some buffing doing on these without your expectation so be careful of it.

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Originally Posted by swanicyouth

This is why I don't apply LSPs by machine. How do you get ALL the edges, around emblems, etc... ??? I guess you could go back and do it by hand on those areas, or you could just do the whole car by hand in one trip around. The later seems to make more sense to me.

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Some LSPs don't stain trim/emblems, so can't you just not worry about being super careful? Going over body lines for one pass with a pad that's spinning slowly, has no cut, and with an LSP that doesn't have any cut doesn't seem like much to worry about to me? I'm not a pro though.

Most of the time you don't really have to buff directly on top of a hard line either. You can run that pad up close to it and let the edge graze it a little bit. There not really much pressure then.

IDK, anyone understand what I'm trying to say?

What is recommended in regard to buffing relatively gently rounded corners, such as the transition from hood to front fender? Has this been covered elsewhere?

that's a new panel, so for me its a new pad and re-priming the pad with product and starting over. I would never transfer straight from hood to fenders, MAYBE fender to another fender on the other side but not usually.

What I'm getting at is a gently rounded corner, the transition from horizontal to vertical surface. Or around the back of a hatchback. Check out a late model Acura RDX to see what I'm asking about.

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Originally Posted by duquephart

What is recommended in regard to buffing relatively gently rounded corners, such as the transition from hood to front fender? Has this been covered elsewhere?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by duquephart

What I'm getting at is a gently rounded corner, the transition from horizontal to vertical surface. Or around the back of a hatchback. Check out a late model Acura RDX to see what I'm asking about.

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The title of this thread starts with...

best practice


Of course there are lots of variables. I'd say you're safe to buff these areas unless some hack detailer has over-compounded them in the past.

Remember, paint is always thinnest on high points, edges and raised body lines and the horizontal surfaces are usually the most damaged over time due to exposure to the sun, the elements and also because they are easiest areas to buff.



:)

The relative new post/video "Hats off to Meguiars - How to Polish your Motorcycle or Car" may have answered my question about buffing around corners. Any problems with the author's technique? Why not machine apply the wax?

Is this still a concern when using a fine finishing polish and a finishing pad or is it more for compounding? What about doors that are closed? Can you buff across the dividing line between the two doors if they are closed?

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Originally Posted by duquephart

The relative new post/video "Hats off to Meguiars - How to Polish your Motorcycle or Car" may have answered my question about buffing around corners.

Any problems with the author's technique?

Why not machine apply the wax?

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You mean this video,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfolWcaKS_8


I've seen this guys videos in the past, he does a good job of explain the process. If it were me? I would always machine apply a wax.

Here at Autogeek - we don't sell hands - we sell tools. :laughing:


Just kidding, I would machine apply everything because the machine always outperforms the human.

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Originally Posted by fightnews

Is this still a concern when using a fine finishing polish and a finishing pad or is it more for compounding? What about doors that are closed?

Can you buff across the dividing line between the two doors if they are closed?

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The idea of

Avoid buffing on top of body lines and edges

I just a good practice. It's not a hard and fast rule.

It's impossible to avoid buffing on edges for most people because most people don't have a plethora of tools so they can,

Match the pad size to the panel being buffed

So do the best you can.


:)