The SECRET to Wet Wash Engine Detailing by Mike Phillips

**Jimmie** · 04-16-2020, 09:21 AM

Thanks Mike. This will be my project for today’s detailing.

Mike Phillips · 04-16-2020, 10:55 AM

Originally Posted by Jimmie

Thanks Mike. This will be my project for today’s detailing.

Be sure to take a good BEFORE shot.

That's the money shot.

**CleanIT** · 04-24-2020, 09:48 PM

Nice write up. The Sonax Plastic Care looks good.

Mike Phillips · 04-30-2020, 01:24 PM

Originally Posted by NJNinja

Nice write up.

The Sonax Plastic Care looks good.

Sure works as well as you see in the pictures.

I show this in all my car detailing classes and in most classes, the people cleaning the engines and applying the SONAX Plastic Care have NEVER performed a Wet Wash Engine Detail. But every engine compartment comes out looking just like this,

BEFORE

AFTER

**Dry Bones** · 04-30-2020, 03:39 PM

How does Sonax Plastic Care differ from Sonax MotorKote? Would you recommend spray everywhere and running the engine?

I used motorkote on one of my vehicles. Took a long time to dry but looks amazing. Just curious your insights.

Mike Phillips · 04-30-2020, 04:04 PM

Originally Posted by Dry Bones

How does Sonax Plastic Care differ from Sonax MotorKote? Would you recommend spray everywhere and running the engine?

I used motorkote on one of my vehicles. Took a long time to dry but looks amazing. Just curious your insights.

I've never used the SONAX MotorKote. We don't have it in the AG store so....

My guess is they are similar. And "no" I don't spray onto a running motor but AFTER spraying the engine and engine compartment down I close the hood and turn the engine on and let her run for about 20 to 30 minutes. This gets it mostly dry and then it will fully dry overnight.

What dries the coating is both the engine HEAT and also the moving air from the fan.

I demonstrated this product on some kind of hybrid car that as far as I could tell, either didn't have a cooling fan, (at least that I could see or feel air movement from), or it wasn't operating at IDLE. Took a lot longer to dry.

Moving air is where it's at man....

**Murrow** · 07-06-2020, 06:42 PM

I attended Mike's January 2019 boot camp, and the process he describes in this post is the same process he taught us in the class.

Over the weekend, I used this process, and the same products in this post, to clean my car's engine bay. It was the first time I've ever done it outside of the boot camp.

I'm very happy with the results:

Unfortunately, I did not take a "before" pic.

Mike's class was a great experience.

It was invaluable for a hobbyist like me, but there were also plenty of people who detail professionally who seemed to get a lot out of it too.

I highly recommend it.

**CleanIT** · 07-06-2020, 07:16 PM

Looks incredible.

I've deviated from the engine bay dressings and started using Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. Leaves very little shine, but repels dust/dirty extremely well. 303 was my go to. Still good but I'm liking the Meguiar's Quick Interior the best.

**CleanIT** · 07-06-2020, 07:19 PM

Originally Posted by Mike Phillips

I've never used the SONAX MotorKote. We don't have it in the AG store so....

My guess is they are similar. And "no" I don't spray onto a running motor but AFTER spraying the engine and engine compartment down I close the hood and turn the engine on and let her run for about 20 to 30 minutes. This gets it mostly dry and then it will fully dry overnight.

What dries the coating is both the engine HEAT and also the moving air from the fan.

I demonstrated this product on some kind of hybrid car that as far as I could tell, either didn't have a cooling fan, (at least that I could see or feel air movement from), or it wasn't operating at IDLE. Took a lot longer to dry.

Moving air is where it's at man....

I completely agree. Whether it was Sonus Motorkote, 303, or Hyper Dressing, I would always spray it on to a clean dry engine then drive the car until it was hot. Would take it on the highway for a bit. An hour or so later it lays and dries perfectly. Heat and air is the key.

Mike Phillips · 07-14-2020, 09:38 AM

Originally Posted by Murrow

I attended Mike's January 2019 boot camp, and the process he describes in this post is the same process he taught us in the class.

Thank you for sharing this, I try to keep the techniques I teach in my class consistent. Plus I only show products and tools that I trust and use myself.

Originally Posted by Murrow

Over the weekend, I used this process, and the same products in this post, to clean my car's engine bay. It was the first time I've ever done it outside of the boot camp. I'm very happy with the results:

Looks great! Actually, looks brand spanking new! Nice work.

Originally Posted by Murrow

Unfortunately, I did not take a "before" pic.

Ding dang.... that's okay but for everyone that will read this into the future, before any detailing project, take a moment to get the BEFORE shot. Remember, the POWER in the AFTER picture is CREATED in the BEFORE pictures.

In fact, I have an article on this topic,

The power in the after shots is created in the before shots

In the picture below, if you DIDN'T know how bad the paint was BEFORE the paint correction, you wouldn't have as much appreciation for the AFTER results. It's the before shot that gives perspective. It's the before shot that provides context.

Originally Posted by Murrow

Mike's class was a great experience. It was invaluable for a hobbyist like me, but there were also plenty of people who detail professionally who seemed to get a lot out of it too.

I highly recommend it.

Thank you for the first hand testimony. I appreciate your trust that when you have other options when it comes to detailing classes, you chose Autogeek.