Quote Originally Posted by Dr Oldz View Post

I have never done an RV. Would the Beast be a better choice?
If the finish was really bad and one of your primary goals is speed, then gear-driven would be the more efficient tool choice just because there's zero chance for pad stalling. A RUPES Mille or Makita PO5000C could be options too.

Because there is so much flat surface area, a 21mm long stroke would also be a good choice, tools like the RUPES or Griot's models.

Anytime you had to buff out an intricate area like around windows of doo-dads protruding off the surface plane, then gear-driven would plow through these areas. I guess it just depends on how perfect you want to get 100% of each millimeter of the surface - or not. Me? I'd take a more BIG PICTURE view and focus on the major flat areas and pay less attention to the minutia. It's the big areas that people are going to see.

I'm a big fan of the BEASTS but I also like 21mm long strokes for final polishing. If I had to buff out a swirled out basecoat/clearcoat RV and a 21mm free spinning long stroke would work that's what I would use.


Quote Originally Posted by Dr Oldz View Post

If I were doing it, that’s what I would grab(again never buffed an RV so hence my ?) I think the ability to use a 6.5 inch pad would be beneficial is my one thought.
That would work.

I'm a fan of the RUPES 7" White foam finishing pad for use on either the BEASTS or the 21mm tools. Again - only if this pad my my product are enough to remove the defects in one step.


Quote Originally Posted by Dr Oldz View Post

Another thought is holograms are “usually” easily removed with a typical free spinning DA like the PC. So would a lighter free spinning DA polisher be beneficial for the fatigue factor?
Yep and agree. Thus the RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark III if it worked.


I actually hope I never have to buff out anything big again. I'll take cars like this all day long.