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Thread: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

  1. #21
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    I set the metering slide bar to use the largest opening when using the foam gun and as far as measuring soap goes I tend to use the glug-glug method. :D



    How to adjust the metering slide bar
    Your Marine 31 Foam Gun comes with a metering slide bar that allows you to adjust the concentration of soap solution to water.


    6 hole stops on the top of the metering bar
    Looking at the metering bar from the top you'll see 6 equal sized holes. These are "stops" that lock the metering bar into position with the use of a spring loaded check ball inside the mixing chamber.

    You can twist the metering bar sideways to push it in or out of the mixing chamber when choosing a solution level and then twist it back to the upright position to lock it into place.









    5 graduated holes on the bottom of the metering bar
    The smaller the hole the less soap solution that can be drawn into the mixing chamber and thus the less foamy suds. Just behind Nick's finger, opposite of the hole stops on the other side there is no graduate hole, this is last section is solid to enable you to switch to just water for rinsing.





    The larger the holes the more soap solution that can be drawn into the mixing chamber and thus more suds will be created.





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  2. #22
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Here's how you get your wash mitt wet when using a foam gun to wash your car and not having to use a bucket.


    This is the 2004 Chevy Avalanche we used in our July 2015 3-day detailing boot camp class.

    Note all the wash mitts on the hood just in front of the windshield with foam sprayed all over them.








    Wait till you see the amazing before and after pictures of the toasted plastic cladding after we treated them with Solution Finish.


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  3. #23
    Senior Member RedXray's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Mike looking at those Half Gallon Foam Guns. The only difference between each of them are the labels (and the 2 oz brands of free soap)... right?

  4. #24
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by RedXray View Post
    Mike looking at those Half Gallon Foam Guns. The only difference between each of them are the labels (and the 2 oz brands of free soap)... right?

    Yes.







    The foam gun is the only way I wash my own cars.


    Mike Phillips
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  5. #25
    Senior Member mrken1's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    I am a foam gun and 2 bucket guy, more foam and soap the better. The neighbor watches the rinse water go down my driveway

  6. #26
    Senior Member custmsprty's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Foam Gun

    CG Honeydew Snow Foam is a great foaming soap.

    I've used a number of others but this stuff is thick and dilutes very well and smells good and foams like crazy.
    2013 Genesis Coupe 3.8 Track Edition
    2015 Hyundai Sonata Limited
    2015 Pearl White Nissan Rogue SL, 2016 Pearl White Nissan Altima SR

  7. #27

    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car


  8. #28
    Senior Member paul_g's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Thanks Mike, you answered a lot of my questions and concerns.

    I guess I'm trying, or at least think I have to keep my environments so sterile, like it's an operating room... and I guess at the end of the day, the car has already been exposed (especially here in New England) to everything mother nature and man can throw at it. If my AG wash mitt once touched a car with Iron-X, I'm sure after a washer-machine cycle it's perfectly fine to detail my own personal Mustang GT.

    After reading Bob's post, I even said to myself, at some point, there is a next step where we have to touch the car. The Iron-X has to come off some how. Even as Bob pointed out their instructions is to agitate with a MF towel. So, yup you are correct... at some point someone has to touch the car with something.

    Perhaps when I was asking, my head was clouded... Back in the day, these products (Iron-X, etc...) didn't exist. It was wash, #7 and wax. Sometimes just #7 and call it a day! ;-). (I'm talking the late 70's / 80's...) :-)
    Ok, now I've dated myself...

  9. #29
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    I'll echo what Mike has said about using IronX on a dirty car....

    My wash process before a polish is -

    1. Rinse car thoroughly
    2. Mist IronX evenly over car while still wet and dirty (Mike said in a post about 6 months ago that the dirt helps the IronX stay put or "cling" on the car so that it can do its job more thoroughly)
    3. Let set for a few minutes until I see bleeding (I am washing inside my garage, out of the sun, so no issue with the hot sun baking the IronX - I am stunned by how the AG staff have to wash vehicles outside in the hot FL sun!!!)
    4. Wash with APC (single bucket method for those of you who want to know this!)
    5. Rinse thoroughly (and possibly rinse several times to prevent IronX from drying on car if I'm too slow in the wash process)
    6. Mist on Carpro TarX on lower body panels. Let set a few minutes, use a small MF to gently wipe over tar. You can feel the tar easily wipe off.
    7. Rinse thoroughly
    8. Use Nanoskin towel and lubricate to "clay" the car
    9. Rinse thoroughly
    10. Dry
    11. Ready to polish and protect

    I've done about 5 or so cars with this method (minus the recent TarX step) and have seen no ill effects of the IronX. The wash bucket gets slightly pinkish by the time you are done, but it all rinses clean. My theory is that these contaminants are all ready on your vehicle and on your wash mitts etc - the Ironx just helps you see it and what you see is the dissolved remains.... my theory ... no basis to prove or disprove.

    I just recently added the TarX in as step and I'm impressed how well it works while the car is still wet. I tried this with a friends Grand Cherokee a few weeks ago that they had attempted to remove the tax on before they brought it to me to coat. It was so impressive, that I did the IronX and TarX steps to my coated DD the next day (using Reset instead of APC in the wash media), it hadn't had the tar removed for 4 months - and we get a lot of tar on our third world roads here in Michigan! The paint was so "clean" on my DD after those to steps that I hit it with Reload (over a 1 year 3 month old DP coating - I know, I'm playing with fire by mixing things - if a plane falls out of the sky it will be my fault!) I plan to suggest a process of Ironx, wash with Reset, apply Tarx, dry, and put Reload on every 6 months for all my friends that have coated vehicles.

    The tar removal step is the part I hate the most out of all the process - I always have. On the white Grand Cherokee - there were a couple spots of tar on the lower panel behind the front wheels that I had to agitate a little more aggressively after drying the car - but it was less than 10% of the total area that had tar on it. Seemed like it saved some time too.

    Overall, very impressed with the IronX and the TarX (and so was the lady with the Grand Cherokee - she couldn't take enough pics of the "bleeding pig" as Mike refers to it!)

    Carpro IronX and TarX - good stuff!!!

  10. #30
    Senior Member RedXray's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by RedXray View Post
    Mike looking at those Half Gallon Foam Guns. The only difference between each of them are the labels (and the 2 oz brands of free soap)... right?
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek View Post
    Yes.

    The foam gun is the only way I wash my own cars.


    Thanks Mike

    Just ordered the half gallon AG branded foam gun along with a gallon of HoneyDew snow foam shampoo. Then I had to have a new mitt and another supreme guzzler

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