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Thread: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

  1. #11
    Senior Member FUNX650's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    I wash the dirt off first, then iron-x when it's wet, especially if it's heavily soiled. And I don't see a point in risking scratching anymore than what's needed, so I don't dry it in between.

    But I wouldn't mind hearing a precise breakdown to Mike's process.
    I would not apply IronX to a wet vehicle:
    -An undetermined amount of dilution will occur
    -Product less apt to "stay in place".

    But that's just some of my decon-thoughts.

    Anyway...
    Here's some official wording on what CarPro (Avi)
    has to say about applying IronX to a vehicle:

    "DRY SURFACE IS VERY GOOD AND BETTER/DEEPER DISSOLVING...
    so dry wheel or paint will be better de-contaminating"

    _______________________________________________

    Bob
    zumahzSKYactiv3 likes this.
    Be wary of the man who urges an action in which he himself incurs no risk~Joaquin de Setanti

  2. #12
    Senior Member KMdef9's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by FUNX725 View Post
    I would not apply IronX to a wet vehicle:
    -An undetermined amount of dilution will occur
    -Product less apt to "stay in place".

    But that's just some of my decon-thoughts.

    Anyway...
    Here's some official wording on what CarPro (Avi)
    has to say about applying IronX to a vehicle:

    "DRY SURFACE IS VERY GOOD AND BETTER/DEEPER DISSOLVING...
    so dry wheel or paint will be better de-contaminating"

    _______________________________________________

    Bob
    Thanks!

    What about going straight into the 2BM after iron-x has been soaking for the recommended amount of time?

  3. #13
    Senior Member FUNX650's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    Thanks!

    What about going straight into the 2BM after iron-x has been soaking for the recommended amount of time?
    No...That's not my recommendation;
    or, the one that really matters: CarPro's.

    •Shake Iron X Spray well and spray directly onto the surface.
    •Agitate lightly and thoroughly with a damp sponge or mitt.
    •Allow to dwell on the surface for 5 min. while the color of Iron X turns purple/red.
    •Wipe off with soft, damp sponge and do not allow Iron X to dry completely.
    •Rinse well with water from a hose or a pressure washer,
    paying extra attention to body panel seams, lug nuts and emblems.
    ______________________________________________

    Of course this doesn't preclude anyone from:
    Straying from the straight and narrow;
    Going down a road less traveled.

    However:
    I personally wouldn't ever want my car-wash buckets, or car-wash mitts, winding up being full of rusty sediments---sediments that could possibly be reintroduced to vehicles placed in my care.


    Bob
    Be wary of the man who urges an action in which he himself incurs no risk~Joaquin de Setanti

  4. #14
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by grungy View Post

    Mike - some of us live in water restricted areas where normal rinse at home is not permitted.

    Suggestions for us ONR/rinseless folks to use as an alternative?

    Yes. It's not a convienent suggestion but one that should work if you want to use Iron X to decontaminate the paint on a car and that is to locate and use a do-it-yourself car wash.


    Like the one I used in this article,


    Blasting Bird Bombs at the Coin-Op Car Wash!










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  5. #15
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post

    When I use iron-x, I would rinse after letting the product sit for 5-7 minutes, I don't agitate the product. It seems like you guys went right into the 2BM after letting the iron-x work.

    Is that way more effective than rinsing right away?
    Quote Originally Posted by ekennett View Post

    Mike, are you spraying iron x on a dry dirty car, letting it sit, then foaming and going to the 2bm?

    I usually will wash the car first then spray iron x on the rinsed but still wet paint. Do you get better results doing it your way?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    Let me see if I can answer both of your questions at the same time....



    First, there was no 2 bucket method or 1 bucket method... just the foam gun. I rarely use any bucket method as the foam gun replaces the bucket or buckets....


    As for my method of using Iron X



    First... when teaching a class on this topic I get a neglected WHITE vehicle as the bleeding effect is the most dramatic and thus has the most impact when using neglected and contaminated white paint and that's what I'm trying to achieve in the class.... impact.

    The people that attend my classes will very likely use ALL the techniques they learn for the rest of their lives because they have impact. And because they have impact they remember them....


    For TV, that is for My Classic Car, I also wanted maximum impact for the TV audience, many of whom I'm guessing will have NEVER seen or heard of a product like Iron X and it's function in car detailing. Richard, the cameraman captured this and it will air next year on My Classic Car....

    See Richard.... and his camera?







    Then as far as spraying on the Iron X and letting it do it's thing and then foaming the car instead of rinsing off the Iron X first....

    Look at the title of this thread and the concept it teaches. This is the aggressive approach to washing a car and the point of the aggressive approach is to get the car surgically clean, not be gentle.

    We're going to buff the paint out so any wash induced marring is inconsequential because we're going to buff out the car.


    2002 SS Camaro Extreme Makeover! - Pictures & Comments







    No had we already buffed out this car then we would have used the Gentle Approach to washing a car.

    Make sense?


    Function over form....


    suf420 likes this.
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  6. #16
    Senior Member LSNAutoDetailing's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by FUNX650 View Post
    No...That's not my recommendation;
    or, the one that really matters: CarPro's.

    •Shake Iron X Spray well and spray directly onto the surface.
    •Agitate lightly and thoroughly with a damp sponge or mitt.
    •Allow to dwell on the surface for 5 min. while the color of Iron X turns purple/red.
    •Wipe off with soft, damp sponge and do not allow Iron X to dry completely.
    •Rinse well with water from a hose or a pressure washer,
    paying extra attention to body panel seams, lug nuts and emblems.
    ______________________________________________

    Of course this doesn't preclude anyone from:
    Straying from the straight and narrow;
    Going down a road less traveled.

    However:
    I personally wouldn't ever want my car-wash buckets, or car-wash mitts, winding up being full of rusty sediments---sediments that could possibly be reintroduced to vehicles placed in my care.


    Bob

    Bob has a good point... I realize this is the "aggressive wash" approach, but I personally would be to afraid to take the wash mitts to the foamed-over-iron-x product.

    What do you do with the wash mitts later? Can they be washed (washer machine) and reused on vehicles that only require a gentle wash, or are they pretty much put in a box and saved only for the "aggressive wash" projects?

    I haven't used Iron-X yet... I usually just wash, dry and go to clay... So I'm not exactly sure of the work-flow and when I would use it.

    Secondly I got the foam gun, and enjoy it, but I realized I now have introduced a time-consuming second step to my process. So if I use a foam-gun, I should just forgo the 2bm? At present I do both... perhaps I'm wasting time?

  7. #17
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by paul_g View Post

    Bob has a good point... I realize this is the "aggressive wash" approach, but I personally would be to afraid to take the wash mitts to the foamed-over-iron-x product.
    I've never experienced a problem. Plus isn't the idea that the Iron X is "dissolving" these iron particles? I think that's what the red liquid is.

    Regardless, the bigger picture point that people seem to miss is that,

    At some point you have to touch the car.

    By the word touch, I mean at some point someone has to run some type of wash media over all the exterior body panel surfaces.

    And like you eluded to in your first sentence, this IS the aggressive wash approach. Its function is to get the car so incredibly clean that now it's incredibly SAFE to machine buff.

    But yeah.... if a person can find out how to thoroughly get a car clean without touching it I say go for it. Then write and article and share the technique on the forum. A pressure washer doesn't count either as no wash media is touching the body panels.



    Quote Originally Posted by paul_g View Post

    What do you do with the wash mitts later? Can they be washed (washer machine) and reused on vehicles that only require a gentle wash, or are they pretty much put in a box and saved only for the "aggressive wash" projects?
    I cover this in my 3-day class. I cover so much information my guess is no one can remember it all or write it all down when they have a chance to sit down in the classroom to take a break which are short and few.





    The answer to your question and what I tell the students in the class is,

    Autogeek doesn't sell the cheapie version of the Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitts you can find anywhere because when you wash them in a washing machine they fall apart.

    We sell the high quality versions and I wash them over and over again as these are the mitts we use in our classes and I use in the real world.


    Ask any of the students that have been through my class and they'll confirm.


    Quote Originally Posted by paul_g View Post

    I haven't used Iron-X yet... I usually just wash, dry and go to clay... So I'm not exactly sure of the work-flow and when I would use it.
    Nothing wrong your process. I teach something different in my classes though. Mostly how to save time while working more effectively and how to either get a car cleaner in the process or work safer because the car already has a nice finish. Thus the reason for two different approaches.


    Quote Originally Posted by paul_g View Post

    Secondly I got the foam gun, and enjoy it, but I realized I now have introduced a time-consuming second step to my process. So if I use a foam-gun, I should just forgo the 2bm? At present I do both... perhaps I'm wasting time?

    You're wasting time. Once you get the foam gun you know longer need the bucket.

    Here's how I wash a car,

    • Foam Gun plus DP Xtreme Foam
    • Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt
    • Iron X
    • Nanoskin Wash Mitt
    • Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying towels
    • Turbo Car Dryer for car, wheels and tires

    The trick to using the foam gun without having a bucket of soapy water is to throw your wash mitt onto the windshield at some point, so its safely sitting on the wiper blades and then get it wet before you try to use it with the foam gun.

    That's a tiny little tip and just one of thousands of tiny and huge tips shared in the class.


    I have a lot of pictures of the aggressive washing approach from the last class but what most people don't know is how time consuming it is to go through 800 pictures taken over the course of 3 days and then make them magically appear, resized to 800 pixels wide with all the fluff cropped out in a way that they will never disappear like you see happen so often with pictures people upload to Photobucket.

    I'm trying to get to more of them and I'll try to get to the car washing pictures as they really tell a story.


    Here's the link to just ONE of our classes over the last 5 years since I came to Autogeek and I think there's probably close to 200 pictures in this single thread alone.

    Pictures & Comments: July 2015 Detailing Boot Camp Class!


    Try to find this many pictures from any other detailing class in the world. My history is I document the action so people can see what they get to do when they attend one of our classes.

    At $1,250.00 a head I figure a few pictures showing all the learning and fun a person gets is important. I also never mind answering questions in-depth on this forum about our classes or any detailing topic. Something else you always get.



    Mike Phillips
    Host - Competition Ready on Velocity Channel
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
    IDA Board Member
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    Click on a book to get your own copy.



  8. #18
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by FUNX650 View Post

    However:
    I personally wouldn't ever want my car-wash buckets, or car-wash mitts, winding up being full of rusty sediments---sediments that could possibly be reintroduced to vehicles placed in my care.


    Bob

    On the surface that could be a valid concern but I've NEVER felt or seen physical particles of steel like the above words rusty sediments creates in the mind's eye.

    It's just not happening.


    As for my approach... it works and the cars come out looking beautiful.













    Mike Phillips
    Host - Competition Ready on Velocity Channel
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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  9. #19
    Senior Member conman1395's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek View Post
    I've never experienced a problem. Plus isn't the idea that the Iron X is "dissolving" these iron particles? I think that's what the red liquid is.

    Regardless, the bigger picture point that people seem to miss is that,

    At some point you have to touch the car.

    By the word touch, I mean at some point someone has to run some type of wash media over all the exterior body panel surfaces.

    And like you eluded to in your first sentence, this IS the aggressive wash approach. Its function is to get the car so incredibly clean that now it's incredibly SAFE to machine buff.

    But yeah.... if a person can find out how to thoroughly get a car clean without touching it I say go for it. Then write and article and share the technique on the forum. A pressure washer doesn't count either as no wash media is touching the body panels.





    I cover this in my 3-day class. I cover so much information my guess is no one can remember it all or write it all down when they have a chance to sit down in the classroom to take a break which are short and few.





    The answer to your question and what I tell the students in the class is,

    Autogeek doesn't sell the cheapie version of the Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitts you can find anywhere because when you wash them in a washing machine they fall apart.

    We sell the high quality versions and I wash them over and over again as these are the mitts we use in our classes and I use in the real world.


    Ask any of the students that have been through my class and they'll confirm.




    Nothing wrong your process. I teach something different in my classes though. Mostly how to save time while working more effectively and how to either get a car cleaner in the process or work safer because the car already has a nice finish. Thus the reason for two different approaches.





    You're wasting time. Once you get the foam gun you know longer need the bucket.

    Here's how I wash a car,

    • Foam Gun plus DP Xtreme Foam
    • Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt
    • Iron X
    • Nanoskin Wash Mitt
    • Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying towels
    • Turbo Car Dryer for car, wheels and tires

    The trick to using the foam gun without having a bucket of soapy water is to throw your wash mitt onto the windshield at some point, so its safely sitting on the wiper blades and then get it wet before you try to use it with the foam gun.

    That's a tiny little tip and just one of thousands of tiny and huge tips shared in the class.


    I have a lot of pictures of the aggressive washing approach from the last class but what most people don't know is how time consuming it is to go through 800 pictures taken over the course of 3 days and then make them magically appear, resized to 800 pixels wide with all the fluff cropped out in a way that they will never disappear like you see happen so often with pictures people upload to Photobucket.

    I'm trying to get to more of them and I'll try to get to the car washing pictures as they really tell a story.


    Here's the link to just ONE of our classes over the last 5 years since I came to Autogeek and I think there's probably close to 200 pictures in this single thread alone.

    Pictures & Comments: July 2015 Detailing Boot Camp Class!


    Try to find this many pictures from any other detailing class in the world. My history is I document the action so people can see what they get to do when they attend one of our classes.

    At $1,250.00 a head I figure a few pictures showing all the learning and fun a person gets is important. I also never mind answering questions in-depth on this forum about our classes or any detailing topic. Something else you always get.



    Mike, do you have a video or post where you - in detail - describe how you wash your cars with a foam gun?

  10. #20
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

    Quote Originally Posted by conman1395 View Post

    Mike, do you have a video or post where you - in detail - describe how you wash your cars with a foam gun?
    No not as of today.

    Here's this though.... remember, you can go to Google and pretty much type in any detailing topic and add my name and find an article on the topic. That's what I did just now to find this one.


    How to wash a car with a foam gun




    This article shows me using the Lake Country Wash Wedge because when I was washing my car this was a BRAND NEW item. Some people really like it too but I prefer the simple Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt.




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