Re: How To Do a Test Spot
Top notch info as usual. I'm new to detailing for profit, and will "profit" from this info!
Re: How To Do a Test Spot
After you dial in your Test Spot, try this sometime... there are marketing reasons I list in the full article,
Knock out painted roofs first, then tackle the rest of the car...
Im the MAN
Re: How To Do a Test Spot
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dwlinc23
Top notch info as usual. I'm new to detailing for profit, and will "profit" from this info!
Doing a Test Spot is all about saving time and saving time is a huge part of increasing profitability.
:xyxthumbs:
Re: How To Do a Test Spot
Fantastic info Mike! Thank you!
Re: How To Do a Test Spot
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Jomax
Another AMAZING article, Mike do you ever do detailing get togethers In the west?
I did when I lived in SoCal, we called them Detailing 101 and Advanced Detailing 102 and TNOG's or Thursday Night Open Garage all at Meguiar's Corporate Headquarters in Irvine, Californial. Did them from 2002 to 2009 then came to Autogeek.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
shoeless89
Fantastic info Mike! Thank you!
Thank you.
Been teaching people to do a Test Spot officially since around 1993 when I started recommending it on the Usenet Newsgroups in rec.autos.misc
I think I document it here,
Test Spot - The story behind the story...
:D
Re: How To Do a Test Spot
I do a Test Spot on every car I work on unless I've previously worked on it and already have a feel for how the paint buffs. No exceptions.
Here's a 2006 Mosler I buffed out for Corvette Mike back in 2006, somewhere I have all the before and after pictures from the project but the only pictures I ever processed and put on the Internet were these 5 and they were to show the Test Spot.
If you look at the top of the driver's side fender you can see where I did my test spot after arriving to Corvette Mike's shop and setting up for the day.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hillips003.jpg
You don't have to tape-off a perfect square and in fact this will just use up precious time. I did this for the picture but to also show all the employees at the shop where I did the work the difference between before and after.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hillips001.jpg
I had to have a few of the mechanics at Mike's shop help me push the car out into the sun to get this sun shot. The sun was still low in the sky so it was hard to get it on the section I actually worked on. To get this shot I was actually leaning way over on the car shooting away from the car in order to get the sun's reflection as you see it in the lower, right hand corner. Even so you can see the paint was completely filled with swirls.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hillips002.jpg
I buffed out the entire car including rubbing out all of the louvers by hand using ScratchX. In this picture that's a machine applied coat of NXT I believe.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hillips004.jpg
Here's the finished work...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hillips005.jpg
The paint on this car was horrible in two ways.
1. It was completely filled with swirls and scratches.
2. The paint was incredibly soft and would scratch very easily. This is why it was filled with swirls and scratches, (probably from normal washing and wiping).
I found out the paint was soft and scratched easily by doing my test spot.
If you've never worked on the car in front of you, before you buff out the entire car with your first choice of pad and product, first do a Test Spot. Dial-in a process that works and once you've proven it works in a small section then all you have to do is simply duplicate the same proven process to the rest of the car and theoretically you should get the same results over the rest of the car.
It should only take you a few minutes to do your Test Spot and it can save you a lot of time and heartache.
:)
Re: How To Do a Test Spot
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jminrod
I'm hoping to start my car this weekend and had a test spot question. I have some bad scratches in my car.
1) Should I start somewhere other than the scratched area since the whole car is not scratched as much as that specific area?
2) I have 105 300 301 looking at picking up some 205 tomorrow. Should I start with the 105 for the test spot or should I just try the MF pads and the 300?
Do a Test Spot for each of the two types of areas.
Chances are good you're going to have to use a compound for the worst area and compound for the areas that are not so bad and that's because modern clear coats are pretty hard.
Also, M105 and D300 are SMAT product so you can stop at any point during the buffing cycle. With DAT product you're supposed to work the products till the diminishing abrasives have fully broken down, the subtle difference is with SMAT you can stop abrading paint when the defects are gone, with DAT it's possible the defects could be removed but you still need to buff to make sure the diminishing abrasives are not leaving their own scratches behind.
(Deep thoughts, deeper than most people care to get)
The M105 is more aggressive than the D300 so you can try the D300 first and if that isn't getting the job done then switch to the M105, both are very very good compounds.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jminrod
I have the Megs MF pads 5.5 & 3"
I also several colors of the lake country foam pads and a new porter cable xp. I have a Dodge Caliber if that makes a difference. Thanks for everyones help in getting this far. Can't wait to get started.
Great questions!
Key thing is to do some testing and make sure you're seeing the results you want and expect before buffing out the entire car. If you're not seeing the results you want then start a "new thread" to explain what's happening and our forum community will help you to tweak your technique and see you through to success.
Read this BEFORE starting, then you'll know what not to do and what to do from the very start.
DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide
:xyxthumbs: