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Thread: How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

  1. #21
    Senior Member richy's Avatar
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    Re: How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

    Mike, that was a very timely article. I had been following Avi's advice on the 90/10 mix of 90% IPA to Dawn.
    I was talking to Jerry Bailey from Duragloss the other day and asked him about this. He said not to use any soap as part of a final paint inspection/cleaning process. He also advised to go with Mineral Spirits. I was not going to post his recommendation as I just figured everyone would want to argue, but after seeing your source having the same recommendation, I thought you would like to hear this. Same message from different, and highly qualified sources. That's more than enough proof for me. I have MS in a spray bottle and mist it onto a mf and gently wipe the area, followed up by a soft mf. I've been doing it on this GT-R I'm working on and it's working very well.

  2. #22
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

    Quote Originally Posted by mc2hill View Post
    Great article Mike! I have always used and recommended 50/50 IPA, because that what everyone did. Now you have made me think about it more (mostly a good thing!).
    I'm not a chemist and don't have any interest in becoming one. I make it a practice not to try to play the part of a chemist on forums either but it is important to try to reach out to contacts that do know about topics like this and get their insights.

    I've seen paint wrinkled from exposure to strong IPA and it's not a comfortable sight.

    Quote Originally Posted by mc2hill View Post
    A question (I apologize if you mentioned this in the article) -
    Do you leave the IPA mixture in the bottle after you finish a project or do you mix a new batch each time?
    I leave it in the spray bottles as we use it up fairly regularly for all kinds of things.

    Quote Originally Posted by richy View Post
    Mike, that was a very timely article. I had been following Avi's advice on the 90/10 mix of 90% IPA to Dawn.
    I always recommend following the manufactures advice as they tend to know their products and processes best.

    Quote Originally Posted by richy View Post


    I was talking to Jerry Bailey from Duragloss the other day and asked him about this. He said not to use any soap as part of a final paint inspection/cleaning process. He also advised to go with Mineral Spirits.

    I was not going to post his recommendation as I just figured everyone would want to argue, but after seeing your source having the same recommendation, I thought you would like to hear this.

    Same message from different, and highly qualified sources. That's more than enough proof for me.

    Thanks for chiming in, I do appreciate hearing what other chemists have to say on the topic and I agree it seems to be a topic that can get some people kind of emotional...


    Quote Originally Posted by richy View Post

    I have MS in a spray bottle and mist it onto a mf and gently wipe the area, followed up by a soft mf. I've been doing it on this GT-R I'm working on and it's working very well.
    I prefer how MS wipes over paint as compared to IPA but either way, when IPA is diluted with water it wipes a lot better then the stronger versions straight out of the bottle.

    One thing for sure, while Isopropyl Alcohol is a liquid, that doesn't automatically make it a great lubricant and from my testing on clear coated black paint, it's pretty hard to wipe a highly polished black finish and not detects some marring from the wiping process.

    The point of this is that if it's happening to a clearcoated black finish and it's pretty easy to see, it's likely happening to a finishes but it's going to be more difficult to see on lighter colors like silver metallics, etc.

    So like you're doing, anyone else doing this should try to use, clean, soft microfiber towels and a gentle touch...


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  3. #23
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    Save all the guesswork and buy some Griot's Pre-Wax Cleaner for inspecting!
    '03 Corvette Z06

  4. #24
    Senior Member Capa1970's Avatar
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    Re: How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

    Great thread! Thanks Mike! I wonder if there is a way to determine what is more effective in removing wax or sealant? Would it be Dawn, IPA, clay with QD, or the mineral spirits?

  5. #25
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

    Quote Originally Posted by Capa1970 View Post
    Great thread! Thanks Mike! I wonder if there is a way to determine what is more effective in removing wax or sealant? Would it be Dawn, IPA, clay with QD, or the mineral spirits?
    I think I covered that in the article... bottom of the first post...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips


    Personal Recommendation For IPA
    If you want to chemically strip paint to remove any compound or polish residues so that you can accurately see the true condition of the paint after any correction steps, then I recommend using approximately a 10% dilution of IPA to water solution. This is a safe approach to remove any residues masking the true results of your process to the paint without the risk of causing any harm.

    You can also opt to use Mineral Spirits instead as they will also remove compounding and polish residues.


    Checking Your Test Spot vs Checking the Entire Car
    Theoretically, if your use IPA to chemically strip your Test Spot and after stripping and inspecting the results look good to your eyes, then theoretically if you duplicate the same correction process over the rest of the panels you will also remove all the defects and leave the same finish behind that you saw in your Test Spot.

    Assuming all the panels have the same type of paint, then you shouldn't have to continue stripping all the paint on each panel, just keep doing the same good work you did for your test spot and trust in your skills and ability.

    You can check each square inch as you work around the car to make sure you're doing as good of work over the rest of the car as you did in your test spot, that's an option and choice each person can make. I tend to check my Test Spot and if it looks good then simply repeat the process over the rest of the car and trust in my skill and ability to duplicate my process over and over again with little variation.


    Chemically Removing Waxes and/or Paint Sealants
    Note this article is addressing the dilution strength for removing compounding and/or polishing lubricating oils sometimes called fillers during the paint correction steps. You can also use this to try to remove any previously applied wax or paint sealant, but while I was speaking with one of my chemists friends about this topic they told me that Isopropyl Alcohol is not effective at removing some polymer products.

    Since there's no way of knowing at the molecular level what's on the surface before you wipe, and no way of knowing if 100% of everything has been removed off the surface after you wipe, therefore there's no way of knowing if IPA, (in any form) is effectively removing 100% of any previously applied wax or paint sealant. You can hope... you can assume... but you can't know 100%


    If you're dead set on removing any previously applied wax or paint sealant by chemically stripping the paint, then a combination of using both a 10% solution of IPA to Water followed by wiping with Mineral Spirits should remove most, if not all, of any previously applied wax or paint sealant.


    Personal Recommendation For Removing Waxes and Paint Sealants
    To remove any previously applied wax or paint sealant, I recommend using a light paint cleaner or a light polish applied by hand or machine. A light paint cleaner or abrasive polish will effectively remove any previously applied wax or paint sealant AND leave the paint looking clear and glossy. I call this working forward in the process because the goal is to create beauty.

    Chemically stripping the paint will tend to dull the paint; it certainly doesn't increase gloss and clarity. You don't see the dulling effect unless you're working on black paint and repeat the process multiple times. Since not everyone works on black paint, and you're not going to make stripping your car's paint a daily routine, it could be you won't see the dulling effect on your car's paint but it does take place.

    Wiping a clear coated black finish over and over and over again with any type of solvent isn't going to make the top clear layer of paint more and more clear, it's going to do the opposite, that is dull it down.

    So chemically stripping paint is what I call working backwards in the process. I, personally, prefer to work forwards in all my detailing projects but do understand the reasons why some people want to chemically strip their car's paint, or their customer's car's paint, and each person can decide what the best approach is for their needs.

    And again, since you're not chemically stripping the paint as a "practice" but only during a detailing session, the dulling effect is not an issue, but I wanted to point it out just for the most detail oriented detailing enthusiasts or Pro Detailers reading this article.




    I do my best to cover every point or question a person might have when I write an article...


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  6. #26
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    Re: How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

    Quote Originally Posted by 07 z-oh-6 View Post
    Save all the guesswork and buy some Griot's Pre-Wax Cleaner for inspecting!
    That is a good suggestion and one of the reasons I included other options besides IPA on the first page of this thread.


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  7. #27
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    Re: How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

    Thanks for covering in such great detail an area that can potentially do harm to a car's finish when the goal is the opposite. I didn't think of it like I should have before I used IPA in the strength that I did (50-50) and your article enlightened me. You're the man!

  8. #28
    Senior Member BobbyG's Avatar
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    Re: How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

    After initially trying the IPA approach recommended by so many here I found that it worked but like you discovered, a 50 / 50 mixture was just way too strong. I've backed off on the dilution to a "more friendly" cleaner however I find myself using Mineral Spirits more and more becuase it just seems to do a much nicer job..

    BobbyG - 2004 Millennium Yellow Z06 Corvette

  9. #29
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

    This wasn't a very exciting article to write but because the topic comes up once in a while and after looking all over the Internet I couldn't find any articles that were valid or helpful on the procedure. Actually I found zero articles, just basic recommendations with no detailed information or recommendations based upon any factual substance. So I made the decision to do some research and then write an article on how to do this procedure safely.

    It's important to check your work and make sure the results you're seeing are accurate but it's also important to work smart.

    Like the old saying goes...

    Work smarter, not harder...

    And then there's the other topic about stripping the paint after all the polishing steps are finished so there's nothing to interfere with the bonding of some paint protection products. Again, it's important to follow the manufactures directions but it's also important clean and strip the paint in a way that's safe and doesn't harm the paint at the same time.

    I'm not sure if I've posted this to any other forums but that's something I'll do in the future just give others some guidelines and suggestions. Feel free to share the link to this thread to any of your forum buddies on other forums if they have any questions about the procedure.


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  10. #30
    Senior Member 2kredbb6's Avatar
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    Re: How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

    Great Info! I feel smart after reading that, not really..
    But I see why you posted so many options after, the term to each their own comes to mind..

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