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  1. #1
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    The SMAT PACK - Everything you ever wanted to know about Meguiar's SMAT products...

    The SMAT Pack - Everything you ever wanted to know about Meguiar's SMAT products...

    Copyright ©PBMA - Autogeekonline.net® All Rights Reserved




    Professional Line
    M105 Ultra Cut Compound
    M95 Speed Cut Compound
    M86 Solo Cut & Polish Cream
    M205 Ultra Finishing Polish

    Detailer Line
    D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream also called PRC

    Consumer Line
    Ultimate Compound
    ScratchX 2.0
    SwirlX

    Professional Line - Caters to the Refinishing Industry (Car repainting industry)
    Detailer Line - Caters to the Reconditioning Industry (Detailing industry)
    Consumer Line - Caters to Joe Consumer Do-it-yourselfers and Hobbyist Detailers



    There's been a lot of questions about SMAT products lately so I've compiled a collection of all the SMAT Products with a brief description of them and when to use them and where. Below this first post in this thread is a dedicated reply with each product, some company information about each product and my comments.

    First.... what are SMAT Products?

    SMAT = Super Micro Abrasive Technology
    SMAT products use Unigrit Abrasives for a controlled, even cutting action. There is one exception to the below and that is M95 Super Cut Compound. While the primary cutting ability of M95 comes from SMAT, it does also contain some diminishing abrasives but because the primary performance of it's cutting ability is due to SMAT it is included in the the SMAT category.


    SMAT Timeline
    Below is a list of all the current SMAT product in the order in which they were introduced to the market...

    • October, 2006 - M86 Cut & Polish Cream
    • December, 2007 - M105 Ultra Cut Compound
    • December, 2007 - M95 Speed Cut Compound
    • April, 2008 - D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream
    • November, 2008 - M105 Ultra Cut Compound - New Formula: DA Polisher Approved
    • November, 2008 - M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
    • November, 2008 - Ultimate Compound
    • November, 2008 - SwirlX
    • November, 2008 - ScratchX - New & Improved with SMAT



    The difference between Diminishing and Non-Diminishing Abrasives BEFORE SMAT

    There were two common types of abrasives used in paint care products usually for removing below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots in the enthusiast/detailer market and for removing sanding marks after wet-sanding in the refinishing industry.

    Before clear coat paints were introduced starting in the early 1980's for U.S. car manufactures, there were also non-diminishing abrasives used in paint care products that were old technology and based off large sized abrasives that while they cut fast they basically scoured the finish with swirls and scratches. Since clear coats were introduced this has forced most if not all company's that manufacture paint care products to bring up the quality of their abrasive technology.


    What's the difference between DAT and SMAT

    SMAT - Super Micro Abrasives Technology
    DAT - Diminishing Abrasives Technology


    DAT - Diminishing Abrasives Technology
    Diminishing Abrasives are a category of abrasives that actually break down, pulverize and disintegrate into nothingness as you work them against the paint.

    For example, a diminishing abrasive will start out a certain size and/or shape, then under pressure over time as they are worked against the paint they will actually breakdown or break apart. This means they start out aggressive and thus aggressively abrading the paint, as they are worked under pressure over time they begin to break down and as they breakdown their aggressiveness level is reduced to the point that when correctly worked they are completely broken down and all you have left is a mixture of spent or used-up diminishing abrasives and the carrying agent or base they were embodied in to start with. There's also a certain amount of removed paint in this resulting mixture.



    SMAT - Super Micro Abrasives Technology
    Super Micro Abrasives are as the name states microscopic in size and do not break down like diminishing abrasives. While they may not breakdown like a diminishing abrasive, there does come a point where there effectiveness falls off in performance, my guess is that this is a cumulative effect of the base formula they are embodied in dissipates while particles of removed paint build up in the residue adulterating or diluting their effectiveness.

    Just to note, this same adulterating or diluting effect takes place with any abrasive product because as the abrasive remove small particles of paint, these small particle of paint join into the mixture thus changing the ratio or percentage of abrasives to the base formula.


    What's the practical difference?
    The biggest difference that I can share is this, with diminishing abrasive technology you MUST work the product until the abrasives have completely broken down to insure you don't leave any swirls in the paint. The reason for this is because if you stop buffing before the abrasives have completely broken down then they are still cutting or abrading the paint, thus leaving swirls in the paint.

    This isn't really a problem because most diminishing abrasive products when used correctly will break down over a normal buffing cycle, (period of time and number of passes), to sufficiently break the abrasives down. It's usually only an issue for people new to car detailing who are learning as they go.


    With Super Micro Abrasive Technology, theoretically, because the abrasives don't break down, or more specifically because the abrasives don't break down like diminishing abrasives break down, you can stop anywhere in the buffing cycle without leaving swirls caused by the abrasives. This would tend to make SMAT products more "Bubba-Proof" with an easier or more flat learning curve.

    Because the abrasives don't break down like traditional diminishing abrasives, and from experience leave a very clear, scratch-free finish whether you're using the most aggressive or the most non-aggressive products, this new technology kind of throws a monkey wrench into the philosophy of,

    "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"


    Notice in the above statement I used the word aggressive, not abrasive.

    This is how the statement is supposed to be written because there are more factors involved besides just the liquid chemical that contribute to how aggressive a process is, for example, your application material can be a HUGE factor as to how aggressive your choice of products are. I just point this out because I see others typing the above quote and often times they write,

    "Use the least abrasive product to get the job done"


    While the meaning is close, it's not exact as you can use products that are not abrasive at all to accomplish a task and still be following the philosophy.

    But I digress... back to the topic at hand...


    Why it's important to use the least aggressive product to get the job done?
    The idea behind using the least aggressive product to get the job done is to remove the defect or defects while leaving the maximum amount of paint on the car.

    For any Newbies reading this, anytime you remove a defect or defects like swirls, scratches Type II Water Spot Etchings, Type I Bird Dropping - Topical Stain Etchings, Sanding Marks after wet-sanding, you must remove some paint from the surface until you level the surface of the paint with the lowest depths of the defects you're trying to remove.

    So removing below surface defects means removing paint.

    That's normal and acceptable but the problem is paint is thin and from what I've seen over the years getting thinner. That means you and me don't have a lot of room for error and for decades, dating back to the Model T, the philosophy of,

    "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

    worked and made a lot of sense. Paint is thin and you only want to remove as little as as you have to in order to remove the defects so your paint will last over the service life of the car.

    Now let me tie this train-of-thought together with SMAT products and why it throws a monkey wrench into traditional thinking.

    Because the abrasives used in SMAT products don't break down in the same way diminishing abrasives break down and tend to leave a scratch-free, high gloss finish, (no matter which product you're using), this means you apply them and then only work them till the defects are gone.

    Once the defects are gone, (and you visually see this as you work an area), you then stop working the product and wipe off the residue and move to the next step or a new section.

    It's this ability to stop when the defects have been removed instead of stopping after the diminishing abrasive have broken down that throws a wrench into the old tried and true philosophy of using the least aggressive product to get the job done because theoretically you can start with the most aggressive product and because you stop after the defects have been removed you achieve the same goal as you would have achieved by using the least aggressive product to get the job done but you can usually do it faster and more effectivley... AND you leave the same amount of paint on the car.

    With diminishing abrasives, it could be that you've removed the defects but if you removed them before the abrasives fully broke down, you must continue to work the products to avoid leaving swirls in the paint because the abrasives are still abrading, this means you're removing paint you don't have to remove. At least that's the theory I'm presenting in this article.


    Make sense?


    IF not, then chew on the ideas presented above and if you're still confused then post your questions to the forum! :D


    I'd like to stress that this isn't a huge matter because the amount of paint you're removing with either approach is usually nominal in the big picture of things and both SMAT products and DAT products are both tried and true products that will get the job done safely, especially compared to the types of abrasive products that were historically used on car paint until clear coats became the new norm.

    Here's an overview of SMAT Products, keep in mind that some of these products are not targeted at the majority of people that will read this article, that is enthusiasts and detailers, some of these products are formulated for and targeted to the refinishing industry. Other products are targeted directly at the enthusiast of Consumer Market. Below I will address each of these markets.


    Refinishing Industry - Body Shops - Places that cars are re-painted
    Basically in more layman terms you would say the collision industry which is made up of Body Shops, whether they are independently owned, like my brother's shop in Astoria, Oregon, Phillips Custom Colors, or a Franchise like Maaco or Earl Sheib, or a body shop inside a New Car Dealership like Galpin Ford.

    The re-finishing industry is anywhere cars bodies are repaired after an accident and the re-painted. Body shop environments, or fresh paint environments, require paint care products that are what we call "Body Shop Safe", that means there are no ingredients in the formulas that could cause surface adhesion problems when new or fresh paint is sprayed onto the car's exterior panels. Products for the refinishing industry are usually aggressive compounds and finishing polishes as these are the types of products needed to remove sanding marks after wet-sanding and then polish the paint to a customer-pleasing, high gloss.

    For comparison,

    Reconditioning Industry - Detail Shops and Mobile Detailers - Car Washes
    Paint polishing work done at brick and mortar detail shops, or by Mobile Detailers or at Car Washes is referred to as reconditioning as it usually involves not only the paint but also cleaning the interior, trunk, engine compartment and all aspects of a vehicle.

    Paint polishing performed in the reconditioning industry can be categorized into two basic types of work and that would be,

    • Production Detailing
    • Show Car Detailing
    Production detailing will usually mean the entire car inside and out is cleaned, waxed and/or dressed. For this type of work a one-step cleaner/wax is generally used on the paint to restore shine and protection.

    Show Car Detailing is where the car is divided into segments and each segment gets a dedicated process to bring the car's appearance up to show car quality. For the paint polishing segment, most detailers will perform a multiple-step process which will take a car's paint to its maximum potential.


    Consumer Market - Do-it-yourselfers, Weekend Warriors - Serious Car Enthusiasts, Hobby Detailers
    The Consumer Market is pretty diverse but to keep this short and sweet, this market would be made-up of primarily of the average consumer or car owner that wants to take ownership of the car washing and waxing maintenance of their vehicles. Products for this market must be incredibly safe to use for beginners and be easy to work with via primarily hand application but also be able to be applied using entry level buffers and polishers.

    Mike Phillips
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  2. #2
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    Re: The SMAT PACK

    M105 Ultra Cut Compound - Refinishing Industry
    On the Autogeek.net store

    M10532 Ultra Cut Compound 32 ounce quart
    M10501 Ultra Cut Compound - 1 gallon


    M105 Ultra Cut Compound

    My comments...
    M105 is a fast cutting aggressive compound formulated and targeted primarily for use with rotary buffers and wool pads to remove sanding marks out of fresh paint in body shop environments.

    M105 was introduced in the fall of 2007 as Meguiar's usually introduced new products to reveal at SEMA/NACE each fall. At that time it was only recommended for use with a rotary buffer or by hand. In the fall of 2008 it was re-introduced as the formula was modified so that it can now be used by hand, DA Polisher, (Porter Cable type polishers), and of course Rotary Buffers.

    M105 is rated at being able to remove #1200 Grit Sanding Marks in a body shop situation, this means fresh paint which means fairly soft paint as compared to factory baked-on paint, so keep that rating in context if you're thinking about sanding down your new car with the factory paint.


    Official label copy
    Ultra-Cut Compound for rapid defect removal & minimal swirl.

    Method of application:
    Hand, DA Polisher, Rotary Buffer

    My comments...
    Although the label doesn't include the Cyclo Polisher or the Flex 3401 the M105 works perfectly well with both of these tool.

    Directions:
    Always work on a cool properly cured paint surface. Shake well. Work on section at at time.

    My comments...
    Just to note, this comment about working on a properly cured paint surface is because this product goes into body shops where sometimes cars are painted one day and then sanded and buffed the next day and the technician doing the work needs to be mindful of the fresh paint and make sure it's dried enough to start working on.
    DA Application
    Apply directly to appropriate Soft Buff 2.0 Foam Pad. Set machine to 4-5. Apply moderate pressure on initial 2-3 passes followed with light pressure for following two passes. Wipe off residue immediately after each panel.

    My comments...
    Always follow the manufactures directions or at least give them first precedence over any recommendation by anyone other than the manufacture. That said, in reality, if you're trying to remove the kind of swirls and scratches in a daily driver the you really need to be on the 5.0 to 6.0 Speed Setting.

    4.0 might work as a 3rd step when working on a controlled swirl pattern like you have after compounding with a wool pad and polishing with a foam pad both using a rotary buffer, but with random swirls and scratches caused by day-in, day-out wear and tear, the depth of these swirls and scratches will vary greatly and in order to remove them you'll need most of the power available from a DA Polisher. Often times smaller pads will also be a great asset.


    Rotary Application
    Set rotary buffer to approximately 1500-2000 RPM's. Use with Meguiars Wool Pad. To prime new or dry pads, mist on M34 Final Inspection. Apply M105 Ultra-Cut Compound directly to the paint surface and begin working in a 2' x 2' area with overlapping passes. Continue working until defects or sanding marks are removed. Wipe remaining residue with a Meguiar's M9910 Ultimate Wipe Microfiber Cloth prior to polishing. For final polishing, choose the appropriate Meguiar's foam pad and M205 Ultra Finishing Polish, or your favorite Meguiar's polish.

    • Paintable - Safe for use in the paint shop environment
    • Environmentally responsible - VOC compliant formula
    • Safe, crystalline silica free formula
    • Safe on all paint finishes including Scratch Resistant Clear coat Finishes.
    Tips
    For best results use with Meguiar's W50000 Double sided Wool Pad
    For pad maintenance and ultimate results, clean pad frequently
    For optimum results, on OEM paint use a lower seed setting (1200 - 1500), and less pressure. For less aggressive cutting us Meguiar's W7000 Foam Cutting Pad
    M105 is excellent for rubbing out door jambs, and spot hand compounding. Simply apply to a soft cloth=, we recommend our M9910 Ultimate Wipe Cloth and rub desired area. Wipe residue with clean side of towel.

    My comments...
    The most effective way to clean your pad anytime you're doing heavy compounding with a product like M105 is to use a Pad Washer like the Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer or the System 2000 Pad Washer.
    Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer
    Autogeek System 2000 Pad Washer


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  3. #3
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    Re: The SMAT PACK

    M95 Speed Cut Compound - Refinishing Industry
    On the Autogeek.net store

    M9532 Speed Cut Compound - 32 ounces
    M9501 Speed Cut Compound - 1 gallon


    M95 Speed Cut Compound
    My comments...
    M95 is a fast, aggressive cutting compound formulated and targeted primarily for use with rotary buffers and wool pads to remove sanding marks out of fresh paint in body shops. The difference between M95 and M105 is they are both fast cutting, aggressive compounds able to remove #1200 Grit Sanding Marks but M105 offers more ability to finish out to a higher gloss with less swirls. M95 is more like an old-school brown compound and priced at a lower price point for the market this product caters too...


    M95 Speed Cut Compound was introduced in December of 2007 and as of the writing of this article there have been no public announcements to any formula changes although Meguiar's history is to improve formulas when technology becomes available, they just don't make an announcement about it all the time. At this time, unlike M105, M95 is only recommended for use with a rotary buffer ONLY.


    Official label copy
    Speed-Cut Compound for fast results.

    Method of application: Rotary Buffer Only

    Directions:
    Always work on a cool properly cured paint surface. Shake well. Work on section at at time. Set rotary buffer to approximately 1500-2000 RPM's. Use with Meguiars Wool Pad. To prime new or dry pads, mist on M34 Final Inspection. Apply M95 Speed-Cut Compound directly to the paint surface and begin working in a 2' x 2' area with overlapping passes. Continue working until defects or sanding marks are removed. Wipe remain residue with a Meguiar's M9910 Ultimate Wipe Microfiber Cloth prior to polishing. For final polishing, choose the appropriate Meguiar's foam pad and your favorite Meguiar's polish.

    • Paintable - Safe for use in the paint shop environment
    • Safe - VOC compliant formula
    • Safe on all paint finishes including Scratch Resistant Clear coat Finishes.


    Tips
    • For best results use with Meguiar's W50000 Double sided Wool Pad
    • For pad maintenance and ultimate results, clean pad frequently
    • For optimum results, on OEM paint use a lower seed setting (1200 - 1500), and less pressure. For less aggressive cutting us Meguiar's W7000 Foam Cutting Pad
    My comments...


    A lot of people want to know what the differences are between M95 and M105, here are the technical differences,
    • M105 can be applied by hand, DA Polisher and Rotary Buffer, M95 is recommended for use with a Rotary Buffer Only.
    • M105 is SMAT only, M95 is SMAT and DAT
    • M105 has the ability to finish out to a higher level of gloss and clarity with less swirls than M95
    Mike Phillips
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  4. #4
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    Re: The SMAT PACK

    Ultimate Compound - Consumer Line
    On the Autogeek.net store

    Ultimate Compound - 16 ounces


    Ultimate Compound
    My comments...
    Ultimate Compound or UC as it's called in the forum world is the consumer version of M105 Ultra-Cut Compound except that it's not recommended for use with a rotary buffer and it's not as aggressive as the M105 which does make sense as Ultimate Compound is targeted at the Consumer Market, not for body shops sanding fresh paint. It can be used by hand and with DA Polishers and though the Cyclo and Flex 3401 are not specifically mentioned on the label this product does work exceedingly well with both of these two tools.

    Official label copy
    The Ultimate Product for Removing Paint Defects
    Oxidation - Scratches - Water Spots - Blemishes
    Without Scratching!

    This revolutionary product dramatically reduces the time and effort required to restore and abused or neglected paint finish. It cuts so fast and leaves the finish looking so good; it's hard to believe possible. the secret is Meguiars' exclusive micro-abrasive technology created for Meguiar's' state-of-the-art products for body shops and detailers.


    Directions:
    Shake well. For best results, apply in the shade to a cool clean surface. Best to keep a bottle hand for paint emergencies.

    By Hand
    Dispense a small amount onto a foam applicator pad or a small, clean 100% cotton terry towel. Apply to one section at a time using moderate pressure and overlapping, circular motions. Remove excess with Supreme Shine Microfiber or 100% cotton terry towel. Turn to a clean portion of the towel for final wipe and brilliant results.

    My comments...
    I've probably demonstrated how to use your hand to remove below surface defects out of automotive paints in front of more people than anyone else currently active in the online detailing world and after years of showing how to do this with the diminishing abrasive version of ScratchX I can strongly state that Ultimate Compound and/or M105, are the most effective compounds I've ever used by hand to remove defects while not leaving scratches behind in the paint.

    While the trend is for people to move from working by hand to working by machine, there are ALWAYS going to be places that you cannot work with a machine and for this reason it's important to know how to work by hand and of course have products that work by hand to remove serious or deep below surface defects and UC or M105 are the products you want in your tool chest for these situation.

    By Dual Action Polisher/Buffer (D.A. Polishers)
    Dispense a small amount onto a clean buffing pad. Buff one section at at time using overlapping passes. Re-apply as needed to remove stubborn defects. Wipe dry with a Meguiar's Supreme shine Microfiber or 100% cotton terry towel. Turn to a clean section for final wipe and a show car finish.

    My comments...
    UC works very well for restoring neglected paint with severe swirls and scratches as long as you use good technique and the right pad with your polisher. Be sure to check out our new video library as we will have videos that show proper technique for working by machine.

    Autogeek's Show Car Garage Video Library


    Pro Tip
    Divide a panel to be treated with a low-tack painter's tape and treat one half with the Ultimate Compound. Remove the tape and notice the striking before and after improvement at the tape line. Then finish treating the panel with Ultimate Compound before applying a Meguiar's quality wax to protect the surface.

    My comments...
    While the above advice off the label is an impressive demonstration to do for yourself, I don't know that I would have used valuable real-estate on a bottle label to print this suggestion. It's close to sharing an idea I've been teaching people as long as I've been in this industry and that's called "Doing a Test Spot".

    Why to do a Test Spot
    The idea behind a Test Spot is to test out the products, pads and process, (process is by hand or machine, in other words how you apply and work your products), to one small area and then inspect your results. The IDEA is to make sure --> you <-- can make one small section look GREAT before going over the entire car and if you run into any problems then you'll be glad you didn't start rubbing down the entire car.

    At this point you can seek out help and guidance to tweak your technique and a phone call to a customer service rep or a post to a forum like the www.AutogeekOnline.net discussion forum will bring you the help you need to dial-in your process till it's perfect.

    Point being, taping off half a panel to show yourself a difference is kind of like doing a test spot but for a test spot you really only need to work a small section about a foot squared or so, not an entire panel and it is a great idea to place a strip of painter's tape onto the panel and then only work on one side of the tape as this will clearly show you the before and after results of your testing and thus the performance of your products and process.
    Mike Phillips
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  5. #5
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    Re: The SMAT PACK

    M86 Solo Cut & Polish Cream - Refinishing Industry
    On the Autogeek.net store

    M8632 Solo Cut & Polish Cream - 32 ounces
    M8601 Solo Cut & Polish Cream - 1 gallon


    M86 Solo Cut & Polish Cream

    My comments...
    As the first product to be introduced using SMAT, this was a real game changer in the machine buffing world for both the refinishing industry and the detailing industry. There were other "Single" or "One-Liquid" systems on the market but they brought with them the same swirling problems associated with traditional compounds. M86 overcame this with the new abrasive technology to make using a one liquid system a workable approach that delivered results that compared with the normal 2 and 3 liquid approaches used in body shops and by production detailers.


    Official label copy
    Paint Defect Removal & Final Polishing, Same Liquid!


    Method of application
    For use with rotary buffer.
    Note: When using a rotary buffer, be sure you are familiar with its proper use.

    My comments...
    While you should always follow manufactures directions I've found this product to work very well with dual action polishers with cutting pads, polishing pads and even finishing pads. Again, follow the manufactures recommendations and if you should decide on your own to use the product outside of the manufactures directions be sure to test the product out to a small area first and make sure you're getting the results you want and hope for.

    Directions
    Shake well. Work one section at at time. Always work on a cool, properly cured paint surface.

    Note: To properly prepare the surface for the Solo System, use #1500 grit, (or fine), DA dry sanding disks or #2000 grit, (or finer), wet sanding paper by hand.


    Step 1- Defect Removal
    Set rotary buffer to approximately 1800-2000 RPM's. Choose appropriate Solo System buffing pad. To prime new or dry pads, mist on M34 Final Inspection. Apply Cut & Polish Cream directly to properly cured paint surface and begin working in a 2' x 2' area with overlapping passes. continue working until defects and sanding marks are removed. Clean pads frequently.


    Step 2 - Final Polishing
    Set rotary buffer to approximately 1400-1800 RPM's. Choose appropriate Solo System foam buffing pad. To prime new or dry pads, mist on M34 Final Inspection. Apply Cut & Polish Cream directly to paint finish and begin working in a 2' x 2' area with overlapping passes. Continue working until swirl-free finish appears. Wipe remaining residue with a Meguiar's microfiber towel. Clean pads frequently.


    Optional: For extreme gloss, follow with a D. A. Polisher application of M80 Speed Glaze or your favorite Meguiar's polish with a Meguiar's foam pad.

    My comments...
    Anyone that knows me knows I've used as much M80 Speed Glaze as anyone that's ever lived, especially for restoring antique and original oxidized single stage lacquers and enamels, that said, after using M86 to remove serious defects following this with M205 will usually be a more compatible follow-up with better results. Just my opinion.

    Keep in mind that in the production buffing segment of the body shop world, the guys doing the sanding and buffing get about 4 hours, (if they're lucky), to sand and buff a car from start to finish if there are more cars in line for sanding and buffing, so speed is king and speed is one of the primary reasons behind a single liquid approach. Bubba-Proofing is another strong reason for this approach.

    With a single liquid approach, you train your employees which liquid to use and then have them only change the type of pads they're using, usually a 2 pad approach, an aggressive wool cutting pad for the first step and a softer foam polishing or finishing pad for the second step and after that the car will usually be hand-glazed and kicked out the door.
    Mike Phillips
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  6. #6
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The SMAT PACK

    D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream - Reconditioning Industry
    On the Autogeek.net store

    D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream - 1 gallon


    D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream
    My comments...
    D151 PRC is a a one-step cleaner/wax for primarily high volume, production detailing work. This would include, Brick & Mortar Detail Shops, Mobile Detailers and Car Washes that offer car detailing as a service.

    D151 is considered a strong cleaner/wax and the word strong here is relative, in the context in which it's being used it means it has enough abrading ability to tackle neglected and abused paint and remove a majority of the medium to shallow swirls and scratches with one well-worked application usually by machine although it can be used by hand. Strong doesn't mean it's going to remove 100&#37; of all below surface defects, even with more than one application as some defects are too deep to remove safely.

    A common question about this product is people want to know if the protection ingredients are natural or Carnauba-based or are man-made or Synthetic-based and the answer is it's a Hybrid in that it contains both naturally occurring protection ingredients blended with synthetic protection ingredients.

    More information on cleaner/waxes or cleaner/sealants or cleaner/hybrids

    How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Detailing Project


    Official label copy

    Fast paint defect removal, incredible high shine AND wax proetction... one easy-to-use liquid!

    • Specifically designed for high volume reconditioning facilities, auctions, detailers, and car dealersips.
    • Advanced Unigrit Technology delivers level cutting and easy polishing
    • Easy on, easy off
    • Dilution: Ready To Use or RTU


    Method of application
    Hand, D.A. Polisher, Rotary Buffer

    My commnets...
    While not listed, this product also works well with traditional orbital buffers, the Cyclo Polisher and the Flex 3401

    Directions
    Shake well. Work one section at at time. Always work on cool paint surface.

    Note: To prepare the surface for Paint Reconditioning Cream, (PRC), properly wash and clay the surface to remove loose as well as bonded contaminants.

    Step 1 - Machine Application

    Rotary Buffer - Choose appropriate Meguiar's buffing pad. Set machine to 1400 to 2000 RPM's. Apply PRC directly to surface.

    D.A. Polisher - Choose appropriate Meguiar's' buffing pad. Set machine at medium speed. Apply P.R.C. direct to pad. Begin working P.R.C. in a 2' x 2' area with overlapping passes. Continue working until defects are removed and high gloss is achieved. Wipe residue with a Meguiar's ultimate Wipe Detailing Cloth.


    My commnets... re: D.A. Polisher
    Anytime you're using a DA Style polisher to apply a cleaner/wax, if the finish is neglected at all, for example you're trying to remove swirls, scratches, water spots, blemishes, chemical staining, oxidation, then you really need to be on the 5.0 to 6.0 Speed Setting. Just like using a compound to remove below surface defects in order to be successful you need to remove a little paint to level the surface and this is really only accomplished when the pad is rotating over the surface, not merely vibrating against the paint and this means using the higher speeds.


    Hand Application
    Apply a thin, even coat of product to the surface with a clean applicator pad. Wipe off residue with a Meguiar's Ultimate Wipe Detail Cloth.

    My commnets... re: working by hand
    Anytime you're using a one-step cleaner/wax, if the finish is in neglected condition, then you're going to be putting some passion behind the pad, that is you're going to need to work the product somewhat aggressively and with firm pressure.

    Simply wiping a cleaner/wax on and then wiping it off a neglected finish will offer some improvement but not much, the idea behind a cleaner/wax is that it gets part of it's cleaning ability from the chemical cleaners and abrasives in the product, in this case super micro abrasive technology, and it gets part of the cleaning action from -->you<-- and the energy in which you apply and work the product.

    Another factor is application material, that is a more aggressive application material will give the product more bite than a soft, gentle application material. You have to be careful and use some common sense, don't use an S.O.S pad to apply a cleaner/wax and think the end-results are going to look good because the S.O.S. pad is too extreme.

    Using too much pressure by hand with poor quality or scratchy materials or applicator pads can lead to Finger Marks or the Leopard Spot Effect.

    Finger Marks

    Historically, for application material we're talking about 100% cotton terry cloth, microfiber or foam material. In order of aggressiveness I when using some passion behind the pad, I would list these three in order of most to least aggressive,

    • 100% Cotton Terry Cloth
    • [B]Microfiber[/B
    • Soft Foam



    Realistically a good quality microfiber material will be just as gentle as a quality soft foam material, BUT when you start to put some passion behind the pad you empower the fibers of the microfiber to offer more bite or abrading power than when you're simply gliding the material over the surface.

    Step 2 (Optional)
    For additional clarity, gloss and protection re-apply P.R.C. with the appropriate Meguiar's foam finishing pad or applicator pad.

    My Commnets...
    The key word in the above sentence is finishing, as is foam finishing pad or applicator pad with the idea that re-applying this cleaner/wax with a softer pad then what you started with will results in a more clear, higher gloss finish. The reason for this would be in part due to the softer application material for this second application and in part would be due to the fact that you're moving a pad over the surface using a product designed to clean, polish and protect.

    In simple words, just the act of pushing a product like this over the paint has a "polishing-effect", so yes, two applications can increase the gloss but in the real world a production shop is going to use a light cutting or polishing pad to apply a cleaner/wax one time and then move on with the project. Production detailing is about getting the work done as quick as possible without sacrificing too much quality.
    Professional Tip
    For added protection, apply your favorite Meguiar's quality wax or sealant.

    My Commnets...
    This is a great idea but in a production shop environment it's probably not going to happen. In the online detailing world this is called "Topping" . Topping is something "enthusiast" will do because they are willing to invest more time into their own car. When it comes to topping a cleaner/wax basically the person is using the cleaner/wax as their dedicated paint cleaner even though it is leaving behind a coat of protection during the application.

    Topping is done to provide more protection and a higher level of appearance and the reason for this is because the topping wax generally is a finishing wax or finishing sealant, not a cleaner/wax so by default there is a higher concentration of protection ingredients in the wax or paint sealant formula.

    Of course applying a finishing wax would generally mean a better overall appearance because most finishing waxes will tend to be more formulated for maximizing gloss, depth, clarity and shine. It's hard to build all the characteristics of a finishing wax or sealant into a product that at the same time it's being used has to clean or abrade the paint.

    With PRC you can remove the wax before it dries but to maximize the protection ingredients left behind on the surface as well as the gloss, if possible allow the product to dry to a haze before wipe-off.


    Additional comments...
    D151 is a very good one-step cleaner wax plus it's versatile because it can be used on just about anything by hand or machine. Most people new to detailing get caught up into trying to create a show car finish on every job the get when the true goal should just be to get the paint clean and shiny.

    Most the work a person new to detailing will be getting is what we call "Daily Drivers" and because daily drivers see normal wear-n-tear, this means they're just going to get more swirls down the road so it's kind of the wrong approach to create a swirl free finish for this type of customer. This is where a one-step products comes in handy.
    Mike Phillips
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  7. #7
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The SMAT PACK

    ScratchX - Consumer Market
    On the Autogeek.net store

    ScratchX - 7 ounce tube


    ScratchX
    My Comments...
    ScratchX came out sometime in the late 1990's, possibly in 1998 as as a hand-applied scratch remover that could compete head-on against similar products showing up in the market place that came in tubes.

    Other companies launching new products in tubes had TV commercials and were creating a market for car owners looking for a way to remove swirls and scratches out of clear coat paints using these amazing new products that worked like magic on TV.

    Meguiar's introduced ScratchX to give people an option for a product that actually removed more swirls and scratches than it instilled and had brand name recognition.

    Clear coats were introduced by U.S. manufactures starting with high-end cars in the early 1980's and as the technology improved and the price for the technology went down, most cars, trucks, vans and s.u.v.s were also switched over to clear coat paint technology.

    The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints

    Fast forward about 10 years and now you have hundreds of thousands of car owners frustrated with trying to remove swirls and scratches using traditional rubbing and polishing compounds which at that time only scoured and scratched the paint. Part of the problem with hand-applied paint cleaners is that most of them may remove some scratches but they leave their own scratches in their place, kind of a 1-step forward, 1-step backwards scenario.

    The other problem was related to using the improper technique for how to physically move your hand. I discuss this in the thread below.

    Put a little passion behind the pad - Mike Phillips


    ScratchX evolved over the years and in October of 2006 it was re-introduced in a new version that could be used by hand or with a DA style polisher.

    It's my firm opinion that these things we call "Discussion Forums" have done more to spread knowledge about anything than any other forum of media and this is definitely true for auto detailing. With more people learning how to work on their car's clear coat finish there's an equal increase of people switching from working by hand to working by machine because modern clear coat paints just are not any fun nor easy to work on by hand. Because the Meguiar's Consumer Line at the time did not have an effective products that could be used by machine to remove swirls and scratches by machine, ScratchX was reformulated to give it this ability.

    ScratchX reformulated using SMAT

    My comments...
    In 2009, coinciding with SEMA, which is when historically Meguiar's and most other manufactures that sell at the retail distribution level launch new products, ScratchX was again reformulated to use Meguiar's new Super Micro Abrasive Technology, aka SMAT along with two new Consumer products that use SMAT, Ultimate Compound and SwirlX.

    ScratchX can still be used by hand or with a DA Polisher and now uses SMAT instead of DAT for it's swirl and scratch removing ability.


    Official Label Copy

    • Fine Scratch and Blemish Remover
    • The "Must Have" Product for Isolated Paint Problems
    • Totally Safe on All Paint Finishes
    • Restores Brilliant, Clear Finishes
    Apply by hand or with a DA Polisher
    Keep ScratchX 2.0 close at hand for quick removal of isolated paint problems whenever they occur. Competitive products either hide the blemish or scratch the finish. Meguiar's exclusive micro-abrasive system enables ScratchX 2.0 to remove fine blemishes wile restoring brilliant high gloss.
    Directions

    By Hand
    Dispense small amount of product onto a 100&#37; cotton terry towel or foam applicator pad. Work ScratchX 2.0 thoroughly into finish one section at a time.

    By DA Polisher
    Dispense small amount onto clean polishing pad. Buff the affected area using overlapping passes. Remove excess with quality microfiber or 100% cotton terry towel. Re-apply as needed. Avoid getting onto rubber or vinyl trim.
    My comments...
    Although the newest incarnation of ScratchX is the most effective version ever introduced, it still requires using the correct technique to get great results.
    Mike Phillips
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  8. #8
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The SMAT PACK

    SwirlX
    On the Autogeek.net store

    SwirlX 7 Ounce Tube


    SwirlX
    My comments...
    SwirlX is what's called a cleaner/polish, that is it's a product that offers ample cleaning or abrading ability but will leave the finish looking highly polished when used correctly. SwirlX can be used by itself for removing shallow swirls and scratches or for refining the results as a follow-up step to a more aggressive product like the Ultimate Compound.

    SwirlX offers a long buffing cycle, this means the product stays wet on the surface for a long time for easy buffing, then when you turn the polisher off, because its still wet it's easy to wipe off. This assumes you don't buff to a dry buff which is bad technique.
    Official Label Copy
    SwirlX draws from Meguiars' professional body shop and detailing products expertise to deliver real results quickly, with minimum effort. This non-abrasive formula gently smooths away micro-fine swirl marks on all paint finishes.

    Directions
    Shake well. For best results, apply in the shade to a cool, clean surface.

    By Hand
    Dispense a small amount onto a foam applicator pad or small 100&#37; cotton terry cloth towel. Apply to one section at a time using moderate pressure. Remove excess using a Meguiars' Supreme Shine Microfiber or 100% cotton terry towel, turning to a cleaner portion for th final wipe.

    By DA Polisher
    Dispense a small amount onto a clean polishing pad. buff a section at a time using overlapping pases. Wipe to a brilliant high gloss with a Supreme Shine Microfiber or 100% cotton terry towel, turning to a clean portion for the final wipe.


    Related Articles
    How to remove a Type I Bird Dropping - Topical Stain Etching
    What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats
    Man versus Machine
    Finger Marks
    1-Step versus 3-Step Process by Hand
    How many microfiber polishing cloths do I need to detail my car?

    My comments...
    And when you get to where you want to switch over to machine polishing instead of working by hand check out this article...
    Tips and Techniques for using the PC 7424XP Dual Action Polisher to remove Below Surface Defects

    And this video...
    How to use the Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher
    Mike Phillips
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  9. #9
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The SMAT PACK

    M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
    On the Autogeek.net store

    M20532 Ultra Finishing Polish - 32 ounces
    M20501 Ultra Finishing Polish - 1 gallon
    Squeeze Bottle


    M205 Ultra Finishing Polish

    My comments...
    This is a very nice final finishing polish that offers a long buffing cycle and easy wipe-off and after buffing out a car all day easy wipe-off is important. Anytime you have a finishing polish that's hard to wipe off you risk instilling toweling marks, (swirls and scratches), back into the finish which defeats the purpose of buffing out the car.

    A common misconception with this product is that it's not aggressive enough for medium to heavy swirls and that's because it's not supposed to be that aggressive. It's' the Tag Team member of the M105 and M205 Twins. The idea behind M105 and why it cost more than M95 is because it finishes out to a very low-swirl, and even no-swirl finish so you don't need an aggressive polish to pick up where the M105 leaves off and take the results to a higher level.

    That's why when I wrote this article, I actually mentioned some people would be surprised to find out where the product ranked in aggressiveness, and that's as the least aggressive SMAT product.
    The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you!




    Official Label Copy
    • For use after M105 Ultra-Cut Compound and all other Meguiar's compounds.
    • Non-gumming formula, performs well with any Soft Buff 2.0 Pads
    • Easy wipe off and fast cleaner-up
    Method of Application
    By Hand, Orbital Buffer, DA Polisher and Rotary Buffer

    My comments...
    Even though the Cyclo Polisher and the Flex 3401 are not listed on the label this product works great with these two tools.



    Paintable
    • Safe for use in the paint shop environment
    • Safe Crystalline Silica Free Formula
    • Environmentally responsible, VOC compliant formula
    Tips
    For best results use with Meguiars' Soft Buff 2.0 Foam Pads; Finishing - W9207 or Polishing W8207. For ultimate results, clean buffing pad frequently. To achieve swirl free finish apply moderate pressure on initial passes, reducing pressure gradually with very light pressure on final passes.
    Directions

    Rotary Application
    Always work on a cool, properly cured paint surface. Shake well. Work one section at at time. Set rotary buffer to approximately 1000-1500 RPM's
    Use with Meguiar's Soft Buff 2.0 Foam Pads. To prime new or dry pads, mis on M34 Final Inspection. Apply M205 Ultra Finishing Polish directly to the paint surface and begin working in a 2' x 2' area with overlapping passes. Continue working until light film remains. Wipe remaining residue with a Meguiar's' M9910 Ultimate Wipe Microfiber Cloth. For extreme gloss, apply with Meguiars' G110 Dual Action Polisher with a W9207 Soft Buff 2.0 Finishing Pad.

    DA Application
    Apply directly to appropriate Soft Buff 2.0 Foam Pd. Set machine to 4-5. Apply moderate pressure on initial 2-3 passes followed with light pressure for following two passes. Wipe off residue immediately after each panel.
    My comments...
    There are no directions for using this product by hand or with a traditional orbital buffer because there's just not enough room on the label. I included the basics below.
    By Hand
    For hand use you would ideally use a soft foam applicator pad or a quality microfiber pad and if you're removing swirls then use ample product and only work small sections at a time, about 16" squarish or so.
    Traditional Orbital buffer
    These tools are pretty much outdated for working on clear coats to remove swirls, if you want to try then use a quality bonnet, there's lambswool, cotton and microfiber bonnets on the market, the most aggressive is the lambswool type but be careful they don't haze your paint if you use too much downward pressure. Microfiber and cotton bonnets are very safe to use. See the below article for more information as to why these tools are not effective at removing swirls.

    Traditional Orbital Buffer aka The Wax Spreader



    Mike Phillips
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  10. #10
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: The SMAT PACK - Everything you ever wanted to know about Meguiar's SMAT products...

    And here's a complimentary article to this one...

    The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you!

    Mike Phillips
    Host - Competition Ready on Velocity Channel
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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