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Thread: Totally lost

  1. #1
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    Totally lost

    I have an older car, 66 Mustang Conv. It was painted about 20 years ago (gloss black) Now the paint job is not a show car quality so it has a little orange peel in spots and some light scratches. I'm pretty sure it was painted with Acrylic Enamel.
    I've ordered some McKees 37-360 and some lake county orange, white,and black thin pads and I'm using a Porter-Cable 7346. Now I don't expect a show room quality job, but if anyone could make any suggestions, I'm all ears.
    P.S. Car is always garaged and covered. And driven seldom.

  2. #2
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    Re: Totally lost

    What do you need suggestions on?

  3. #3
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Totally lost

    Quote Originally Posted by segdoh49 View Post

    I have an older car, 66 Mustang Conv. It was painted about 20 years ago (gloss black) Now the paint job is not a show car quality so it has a little orange peel in spots and some light scratches. I'm pretty sure it was painted with Acrylic Enamel.
    Cool car.

    Bob McKee, the owener, founder and CEO of Autogeek has a 1966 Ford Mustang Convertible restored by Wayne Carnini. In the below thread, Wayne joined us at one of our Cars & Coffee car shows to present Bob his fully restored Mustang.


    Wayne Carini at Autogeek's Cars & Coffee on Saturday December 13th




    Wayne Carini and Bob McKee







    Quote Originally Posted by segdoh49 View Post

    I've ordered some McKees 37-360 and some lake county orange, white,and black thin pads and I'm using a Porter-Cable 7346.

    The McKee's 37 - 360 is a great one-step cleaner/wax.

    The Porter Cable 7336 is the first generation Porter Cable dual action polisher. It's still a very capable polisher and especially when you use thin foam pads to make it easier to maintain pad rotation.

    Do you remember which pads specifically you ordered?



    Quote Originally Posted by segdoh49 View Post

    Now I don't expect a show room quality job, but if anyone could make any suggestions, I'm all ears.

    P.S. Car is always garaged and covered. And driven seldom.
    Suggestions? You bet!


    Hang on...



  4. #4
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Totally lost

    Suggestions....


    First do the normal things,


    Wash and dry - For cars like yours I use a Waterless Wash

    Inspect the paint with the Baggie Test - if you feel little bumps on the paint then you need to use detailing clay to clay the paint or some other tool for removing contamination.


    The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants






    When youre ready to start polishing I have an article that covers everything you want to know about using cleaner/waxes here,


    How to choose and use a one-step cleaner/wax by Mike Phillips




  5. #5
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Totally lost

    More...

    As for which pad to use... you want to do a test spot. My article posted above on how to use a cleaner/wax states you want to use the softest foam pad possible when doing a one step and that's so you don't leave any buffer trails in the paint caused by using too aggressive of a pad. (Yes a pad can leave marring).

    So apply some of the cleaner/wax to a white polishing pad and buff a section about 16" x 16 square on the hood or trunk lid and inspect. With tools like the Porter Cable you don't want to work large sections as these tools are not super powerful.

    Then inspect the results. If you're happy, repeat this over the rest of the car. If you see all the SHALLOW swirls and scratches have been removed but now DEEPER swirls and scratches show up like a sore thumb then you can try the orange foam cutting pad to a NEW TEST SPOT and then inspect.

    Also stand back a little ways and make sure you don't see lines or trails mimicking the direction you moved the polisher over the paint. This can happen when using one-step cleaner/waxes the same way it can happen when you ONLY use a compound. If you see trails then you'll need to re-polish with a softer pad.

    If you're not happy with the results from the cleaner/wax it's not the waxes problem. Cleaner/waxes are limited in how much defect removal they can do. If you still see swirls and scratches you want removed it's likely need to use a true and dedicated compound for your initial buff. Then you can follow this with the 360 cleaner/wax with the foam polishing pad.



    Two things...


    1: Black will show everything so be sure to dial in your process before buffing out the entire car.

    2: Don't skimp on abrasive technology. The MOST IMPORTANT factor when it comes to polishing paint is the abrasive technology. If you need a compound, go with the McKee's Fast Compound. Superb abrasive technology. You will be happy with the results.


    If you have more questions, post them.



  6. #6
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    Re: Totally lost

    Another suggestion. Don't forget to do a test spot and inspect your work!

  7. #7
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Totally lost

    I'd also strongly recommend reading the below two articles BEFORE you start...


    Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation








    DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide







  8. #8
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: Totally lost

    Quote Originally Posted by paul_g View Post

    Another suggestion. Don't forget to do a test spot and inspect your work!

    Correct.

    I thought I included this article but maybe I'm typing faster than I'm thinking?


    Here you go Mustang owner...

    How To Do a Test Spot


    So important to test to a small section and inspect BEFORE buffing out the entire car.


  9. #9
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    Re: Totally lost

    Thank you so much for the information. I will take all suggestion to heart. I have not received my order yet, but I ordered the wrong size pads (6.5") which I'm going to exchange after they arrive. So when I get the 5.5" pads I will do a test.
    Pad colors ordered were Lake County ThinPro Orange-White & Grey (2ea) Just how abrasive is Mckees's Fast Compound ?
    There may be places, especially on edges, where the paint could be a little thin. I don't want to get into the undercoat.
    Again, Thanks for the information/suggestions.
    P.S. Just read the information on the McKees's Fast Compound, so I may just order to be on the safe side. (orange pad ??? ) or gray or white to start ?

  10. #10
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: Totally lost

    Quote Originally Posted by segdoh49 View Post

    Thank you so much for the information. I will take all suggestion to heart.

    I have not received my order yet, but I ordered the wrong size pads (6.5") which I'm going to exchange after they arrive. So when I get the 5.5" pads I will do a test.

    Pad colors ordered were Lake County ThinPro Orange-White & Grey (2ea)

    Because you ordered the ThinPro pads, which are very thin, your Porter Cable dual action polisher shouldn't have any problem spinning them. BUT you really need a 6" backing plate when using 6.5" pads. If that's the size backing plate you have I'd at least test one pad on your 1966 Mustang as these might work just fine.

    I never use 6.5" pads on PC type tools as the smaller 5.5" pads tend to not only rotate better but also fit body panels better. One thing for sure, you can never have too many pads.


    Quote Originally Posted by segdoh49 View Post

    Just how abrasive is McKee's Fast Compound ?
    It's an aggressive compound but it's also incredibly safe. Have no fear in using this compound on your Mustang especially with foam pads and a Porter Cable. When you get it, feel some between your fingers. It will feel like Jergens hand lotion NOT gritty like old school compounds.



    Quote Originally Posted by segdoh49 View Post

    There may be places, especially on edges, where the paint could be a little thin. I don't want to get into the undercoat.
    On classic cars like yours or really any car, just use the "Best Practice" of not buffing on edges. As long as the paint is not thin there won't be any risk. Keep in mind, anytime a person is working on thin paint they could burn through it just as easy working by hand as working by machine.


    Quote Originally Posted by segdoh49 View Post

    Again, Thanks for the information/suggestions.
    This forum is all about helping people be successful in their garage.


    Quote Originally Posted by segdoh49 View Post

    P.S. Just read the information on the McKee's Fast Compound, so I may just order to be on the safe side.

    (orange pad ??? ) or gray or white to start ?

    Definitely start with the ORANGE pad. The grey pad is one sharp and very aggressive foam pad. I only use the grey ThinPro pads when I need aggressive cutting for either deep defects or hard paint.

    Remember, always use the least aggressive product to get the job done as this gets the job done while leaving the most paint on the car. (I have an article on this )

    This is why you always want to start out by TESTING and when you test, start with the least aggressive products and then check your results. You can always get more aggressive if the products you first test are not aggressive enough.

    If you have more questions, post away...

    Also, I think we would all like to see a picture of your Mustang...



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