And there you go.... the problem is likely a problem with the actual paint or the application of the paint...
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Hi Mike...
Another CC Failure for your archive...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...CCFailure2.jpg
:)
Bob
CC failure is what led me to this site.
One question I haven't seen an answer to is : If I had been keeping a coat of sealant or wax regularly on the car for the past 10 years, would it have prevented CC failure, or is it something that just happens as cars age, whether you use Waxes, sealants, or just relied on the Clear Coat to protect the car by itself?
Thanks
Can I be repaired with anything in the beginning stages Mike?
In my opinion...
Doing "something" is better than doing "nothing".
Lots of people don't understand that the clear layer of a basecoat/clearcoat paint system is simply "clear paint" and it needs to be maintained just like any car paint. Neglecting it won't help it to last longer.
Also, a smooth surface will hold up better to the elements over time than a textured surface. I think I point this out in the third paragraph of this extreme makeover write-up.
Pictures & Videos: 2003 Honda Civic Extreme Makeover - Duragloss
Before
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...lsHonda006.jpg
After
This finish will last longer just because it's now smooth.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...lsHonda050.jpg
Also, you can add real UV hindering protection, see my comments on page two of this article...
Beginning Clearcoat Failure
Here's two things I've been typing for years, the first one is something I always tell my son,
"You don't know what you can do until you try"
"Sometimes the most you can do is the most you can do"
Start by taking care of your car's finish with regular washing and waxing with some type of quality products.
Try not to inflict swirls and scratches into the paint in the first place so you don't have to abrade the surface and remove good paint to remove the swirls and scratches.
If you do have to abrade a car's finish, (compound or polish it), then always use the least aggressive products to get the job done.
If you live in a geographical area of intense sunlight AND you have to park your car out in the open exposing it to the intense sunlight, then use a product that is proven to provide UV protection. See my comments in this thread,
Beginning Clearcoat Failure
:)
Failure....it likely took $1,000 value out of my car
Attachment 14271Attachment 14272
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Clearcoat failure kills me. My Town Car looked BEAUTIFUL 3 years ago. Astunning example of a car made in 1994. Now, it looks like any other $1,000 POS on the road. You could never tell all the hours I spent clay barring, washing, hand drying, waxing, then buffing. I can spend all day making it looks near showroom, but the paint will kill it each time. I'd be lucky to get $1,500 for it. Repainting will never pay off either, as it'll cost $3,500 for a proper repaint, and no one in their right mind would pay $5K for a 18 year old Lincoln.
My 07 mustang
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/15/evene4y6.jpg
My 2003 Cavalier. I had used Zaino on it since new. I don't think that has any correlation to the clear coat failing as I see that happening on many many Cavaliers of this age. Hood is almost all gone, roof is pretty much all gone, deck lid is about 50% gone and tops of rear quarters are going.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...ailure_009.jpg
Since the car is rusting underneath due to the wonderful New England winters, I'll just keep driving it until it breaks and isn't worth fixing. It's got 153K miles on it and it sat basically for two years while I lived in South Boston so....I've gotten my money's worth out of it.
Wow! That's horrible looking!
You're picture is such a great example of what extreme clearcoat failure looks like I took the liberty of downloading it off Photobucket and placing it in our gallery so it won't turn into a missing picture in the future.
Thanks for sharing...
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